BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

i just got my r1150r a couple of weeks ago, i decided to change the oil, i called the last owner
and he told me that the bottom bolt on the right hand side was to let the oil out, i unscrew the
the bolt and about a quart of clean oil came out, that was strange because the bike takes 4 quarts, when i took the oil filter off some dirty oil came out, i started the bike and all the dirty oil
came out about 4 quarts of it....what is going on..isn't the old oil suppose to come out of the
right bottom bolt...i need so help with this...thanks

Sounds like you tried to change the oil on a cold engine. There's a lot of oil trapped above a closed thermostatic valve, (in the oil coolers,) on a cold engine. You need to go for a ride and get the engine up to operating temperature before you change the oil.

I hope you didn't run the bearings dry, running the engine with the oil plug out...

From your description I think you may have opened up the wrong drain plug, Den

The Oil Drain plug is on the "Bottom" of the engine, off to one side YES but it is on the bottom of the engine! it is not the "bottom Bolt on the righthand side"

Engine Oil and Filter Change
Tools Parts
oil filter tool oil – 4 qts.
hex bit socket – 8mm oil filter
ratchet crush washer - drain plug
torque wrench
rubber gloves
funnel
oil drain pan
rag
1. Remove the sump plates (skid/bash plates) – see page 18 for instructions.
2. Be sure the engine is hot (go for a short ride).
3. Place the oil drain pan under drain plug (bottom right side of engine).
4. Wear rubber gloves - oil is carcinogenic, plus when you accidentally touch the
hot headers!!! or get hot oil!!! on your hands it won’t hurt as much.
5. Remove the oil drain plug located to the right of the oil filter, 8mm hex bit
socket.
6. Remove the oil filter, oil filter tool and ratchet.
7. Remove the oil filler cap to help draining.
8. Let drain for ~10 min.
9. Use the rag to remove any dirt from around the drain plug area and from the
oil filter well.
10. Install the drain plug with a new crush washer and torque to 23 ft.lb. (32 Nm).
11. Fill the new oil filter with fresh oil.
12. Apply a thin coat of oil to the new oil filter rubber gasket.
13. Install the new oil filter and give it ¾ - 1 turn after first contact.
14. Add 3.75 – 3.9 qts. of oil total (NOT 4 qts.!!!) using a funnel or oil spout.
15. Install the oil filler cap.
16. Run engine at idle for 2 – 3 min.
17. Wait ~10 min. and check to be sure the oil level is at the dot in the center of
the sight glass.
18. Check for any oil leaks at filter and drain plug.
Note: You may get more consistent oil level readings if you put the bike on the
sidestand for a few minutes and then put it on the centerstand.

Sounds like you removed the bolt I was asking about in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15201

As others have said, not the oil drain plug. Exactly what this other bolt is for, I still am not sure.

Exactly what this other bolt is for, I still am not sure.

Now we know....It drains out 1 quart of oil.

Here's a run-down with photos:
Click Here

Boxer wrote:

Here's a run-down with photos:
Click Here

Thanks Boxer, no reason to Fu@#k-up after looking at this, Thanks for taking the time to post it, Den

Was the bike on side stand when you drain the oil?

Are you sure you haven't emptied the GEARBOX oil???


Was this bolt that released a "quart" of oil BEHIND the cylinder on the right hand side of the bike?

Boxer wrote:

Exactly what this other bolt is for, I still am not sure.

Now we know....It drains out 1 quart of oil.

Here's a run-down with photos:
Click Here

Why do you pre-fill the filter??

It'll fill normally the first time you run the bike.

Sounds like you drained the gearbox oil (which is about 1.1qts)!

Also, nice step by step on the engine oil change but I noted he used Redline heavy shockproof in his FD. There is a school of thought out there that using anything but 75w90 in the FD could add an issue to the FD failures. Heavy Shockproof in the gearbox should be fine but the FD is a question mark.

Why do you pre-fill the filter??

When you prefill the filter, it forces you to screw it back on at an exact perpindicular angle to the filter screw, preventing any chance of crossthreading it. If you don't prefill it, and you're crawling around trying to get that filter in...Maybe even trying to do it while kneeling...and having it upside down...you could very well get it screwed on crooked. Plus the added weight of the filter when its loaded with oil makes it "feel" like you're installing a really important part...which it IS.
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And then there's the added bonus of watching that beautiful new fresh oil percolate down and up into the new filter as you slowly pour it in. Sometimes I almost get mezmerized into licking the stuff like syrup. Very therapeutic...and I can always use more therapy.

I always pre-fill oil filters on everything with one. Even horizontally mounted ones. They require a quick tilt-n-tighten move. The prefilling decreases the time the engine runs with zero oil pressure until the oil pump fills up the new empty filter.


Clean oil and 1 qt IS the gearbox oil drain.