BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I'm wondering how others here have found the R to be (in terms of power delivery) as more miles get put on the engine.

Reason I ask is this is my second R. I had an 07' which I totaled. That bike had nice torque and power up to about 6K rpms, at which point it had a great burst of power - between 6k and 8k rpms. I'm on my 08' R now which I've just gotten past the run in period. 600 mile service is done and now there's 920 miles on it. The engine feels tight. Now that I'm able to run the RPM's up I don't notice the same power spike in the upper RPMs that the last bike had. But then I'm not sure how long it took for the engine to 'loosen' up on the last bike (it had 7400 miles on it in the end). Anyhow I'm hoping this bike eventually loosens up and develops that power band like that last one. I'm still tending to baby the engine on this bike at the moment though.

Thanks!
Mike...

There are several ways to start an argument on a board.

1. Religion
2. Politics
3. What's the best kind of oil to use
4. What's the best way to break in an engine

I never baby'd mine. I observed the RPM limits (pretty much) but I drove it "briskly" from the start. It is fast, at least seems to be to me. There is torque for days and a big surge of power at the top.

Break-In --- Ride Hard, Ride Often, Change OIl

Ride it like you stole it.

Or ride it like the manual suggests during break-in. I kinda figure the engineers in Berlin know a tiny bit more about how to treat their hardware than some dude on the web. Call me goofy (many have..) but I just followed what they said and ended up with a nice smooth no-oil-use engine. Go figure..

What's so hard about just breaking it in the way our Teutonic masters say to break it in? It's not exactly babying it. I still had gobs of fun of my bike while I broke it in.
Mark

Breaking in a new engine is a subject that is all over the map. I have always followed the manufacturer's recommendations and have never had a problem. I know others have ridden their new machines hard right out of the box and can't say that any of them had problems either. As an engineer I can surmise that it probably doesn't matter much if the engine is built to spec. The problem is that not every engine comes out perfect and it is the minor imperfections that would be more effectively addressed with an easy break in.

Bill

deilenberger wrote:I kinda figure the engineers in Berlin know a tiny bit more about how to treat their hardware than some dude on the web.

I just hope they are not the same engineers that brought us the EWS failure.

Dan-A wrote:

deilenberger wrote:I kinda figure the engineers in Berlin know a tiny bit more about how to treat their hardware than some dude on the web.

I just hope they are not the same engineers that brought us the EWS failure.

Different crowd entirely. ME's vs EE's..

deilenberger wrote:

Dan-A wrote:

deilenberger wrote:I kinda figure the engineers in Berlin know a tiny bit more about how to treat their hardware than some dude on the web.

I just hope they are not the same engineers that brought us the EWS failure.

Different crowd entirely. ME's vs EE's..

Whew! Just don't let the EE's I do business with hear me say that!

Dan-A kind of somes it up.. but I'll dive in anyhow.

What I do is:

1. Drain all oil from engine, snd add back 2 quarts of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil).
2. I start the engine and let it warm up.
3. Once warm I then execute ten slow power ups to 8,000 RPm's.
4. Then it's off we go on about a 15 minuet drive making sure that I have hit all six gears. Shift point about 2500 RPM's or 7,500..I alternate.
5. Then back to the house where I execute another slow ten power ups to about 8,000 RPM's. Please note at 8,000 RPM's I count to 15 then slowly power down.
6. Let bike cool enough to change Oil and filter Rotella T Full Syn.
7 Wa La... Broken In.





Ok, Ok....Just Kidding.... I follow the manual to the T

Uh... Maybe you should make that tiny type at the bottom just a little bigger.