BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hiya,

Any tips with regard to the 'std' petrol pipe 'disconnects'. Took the tank off to look at the ABS unit (for when this goes...) and mainly to fit some Optimate/charging leads to the bike.

The battery took (on an Optimate) about 11hrs before the condition now stays at 'green' - I wanted to fit this as whilst the ABS stuff is there have read the ABS circuits etc are sensitive to battery voltage...

Is there a technique for undoing and redoing these 'disconnects' up. Initially I thought they were connected but the bike wouldn't start and I assumed no petrol....after 'struggling' eventually got the pipes reconnected.

One of them - the lower one of the two seems to have been weeping a little and I did have a small 'leak' when first reconnected - but once running it seemed to stop....but a bit worried I will be out one day and will spring a leak....

Any tips - the manual just says disconnect and connect....the orings looked fine not missing/broken....looked on the OEM BMW ONLINE parts fiche but can't find the o-rings for these...do you have to replace the entire unit if they leak?

Regards

Mark

Mark-

The CPC (Colder Products, the manufacturer) fuel line quick-connects actually work pretty well, in spite of the problems documented here on the board. As you know, I broke the male quick-connect on the fuel return line (the upper of the two lines) when pulling the tank for my ABS removal, but the fault was mine for not double-checking that the quick-connect halves were fully separated... they tend to sneak back into position, pushed by the confined fuel hoses.

Seems the quick-connect issues focus on (1) condition of the O-ring; (2) difficulty reconnecting the CPCs; and (3) weakness of the plastic CPC body and hose barb. Fuel leaks at clamped section are also problems associated the R1150R fuel lines.

Here's how I've addresses the above problems:

(1) inspect, clean & lubricate the O-ring, and replace if necessary... I've used both petroleum jelly and good ol' spit to wet the O-rings before reassembly, with good results.

(2) the CPC quick-connects lock into place with a stainless steel clip that moves across the face of the connector... it's best to disconnect the unit and stare at the female connector end to see what I mean. Also incorporated into the female CPC connector is a pin that depresses as the two connector halves are reassembled, and the pin releases that clip/slide thing to capture the male half. Again, play with it when it's apart to see how it works. The only trick to reassembly of the CPC quick-connector set is to make sure that the female connector's clip/slide is "dingle" and ready for release when the male connector is inserted. Trying to mate the two parts when the slide is in "release" position will screw up the O-ring and make reassembly near impossible.

(3) mnay folks here have purchase the CPC quick-connector sets in metal to solve the plastic weakness issue, and that same upgrade is on my list for both my Rockster and Mrs. Sweatmark's Roadster.

Oh, and that battery charging time is same as our bikes... seems like it takes a long time to reach "green light" status, but it's probably one of those asymptotic relationships, like tortoise and the hare. Same time period for both of our bikes, using BMW chargers and the BMW gel cell batteries, one battery new this season and one about 4 years old.

Charge time for the Odyssey AGM battery in the Roadster was much faster using a different special charger setup, but then that battery crapped out after only 1 season.