Hi Folks!
It does seem like my 2000 R1100R could benefit from the cam tensioner upgrade.
However, reading the various posts have left me confused about what parts I need. (They seem to have changed at least once.)
Does anyone know the current upgrade parts list?
Thanks!
Dave
Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
Here you go !!
11 31 7 688 629 . cylinder tensioner, left. . . $19.20
11 31 7 656 922 . piston left . . . . . . . . . $28.40
07 11 9 963 308 . gasket ring left A18X22-CU. . $ 0.50
And the install instructions are here:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/cam.pdf
11 31 7 688 629 . cylinder tensioner, left. . . $19.20
11 31 7 656 922 . piston left . . . . . . . . . $28.40
07 11 9 963 308 . gasket ring left A18X22-CU. . $ 0.50
And the install instructions are here:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/cam.pdf
Phil C.
2003 R1150RT "DaRTh"
2000 R1100R "LeRoy
2003 R1150RT "DaRTh"
2000 R1100R "LeRoy
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dbuffington
- Basic User
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 8:37 pm
Re: Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
Hi Folks!
I did the upgrade yesterday -- working very carefully according to the "Wisdom" instructions, it took about an hour -- and WOW, what a difference it makes!
The engine is much, much quieter, with most of odd slapping, ticking, tapping noises now gone. Now, it's quiet enough for me to be irritated by the fuel pump noise
I would add a few notes to the "Wisdom" instructions:
- A 5mm ball-head allen wrench would make dealing with the upper manifold bolt much easier. And some caution is due there because it is possible to crossthread and strip the threads.
- The instructions recommend using a bent paper clip to remove the old tensioner spring. A pair of thin, needlenose pliers works much better.
- I heard a frightening few seconds of loud tapping when I first started up the engine after doing the upgrade. I suspect that was the time it took for the new tensioner to fill with oil (which functions as hydraulic fluid here). There hasn't been any similar noise since.
Thanks!
Dave
I did the upgrade yesterday -- working very carefully according to the "Wisdom" instructions, it took about an hour -- and WOW, what a difference it makes!
The engine is much, much quieter, with most of odd slapping, ticking, tapping noises now gone. Now, it's quiet enough for me to be irritated by the fuel pump noise
I would add a few notes to the "Wisdom" instructions:
- A 5mm ball-head allen wrench would make dealing with the upper manifold bolt much easier. And some caution is due there because it is possible to crossthread and strip the threads.
- The instructions recommend using a bent paper clip to remove the old tensioner spring. A pair of thin, needlenose pliers works much better.
- I heard a frightening few seconds of loud tapping when I first started up the engine after doing the upgrade. I suspect that was the time it took for the new tensioner to fill with oil (which functions as hydraulic fluid here). There hasn't been any similar noise since.
Thanks!
Dave
philbytx wrote:Here you go !!
11 31 7 688 629 . cylinder tensioner, left. . . $19.20
11 31 7 656 922 . piston left . . . . . . . . . $28.40
07 11 9 963 308 . gasket ring left A18X22-CU. . $ 0.50
And the install instructions are here:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/cam.pdf
Re: Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
I see that all of you are updating the left side, BUT, in my case the noise is coming from the right side. After prolong ride in the hot weather the right side sounds clonking, sloping taping, bottom line, it doesn't sound as when the engine is cold. It has been like that since I got it at about 7K and now I got almost 23K. And it is 95 R1100R.
What do you think I should do??
Thank you
What do you think I should do??
Thank you
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dbuffington
- Basic User
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 8:37 pm
Re: Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
Supposedly, the problem is caused by oil draining out of the left side tensioner, which is mounted on _top_ of the head.00zero wrote:What do you think I should do??
The right side tensioner is mounted on the _bottom_ of the head, and therefore, it should hold its oil better.
However, I suspect the entire original design of the tensioner is deficient, and given the relatively low cost of the parts, I'd be tempted to replace the right side tensioner also.
However, one question first:
Are the left and right side parts the same?
The parts guy at your BMW dealer should be able to tell you.
Enjoy!
Dave
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dbuffington
- Basic User
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 8:37 pm
Re: Cam Tensioner Upgrade Parts?
I just did this on my 1150. There is no need to remove the throttle body. I came in behind the paralever arm with a socket and swivel on a short extention. Piece of cake. Used a small magnet to pull out the spring. An easy replacement.
I don't get caught in the rain, I ride in it on purpose.