BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I just got my '95 R1100R and was going over it to ride this season. I'm new to the R11 but I've had an R850 for the last 3 years. I didn't have to fix that one. The R11 has sat for a year or 2, & has 80K mi. The previous owner ran it once in a while & kept battery up. I was changing all the fluids & plugs when I saw the LH gasket from throttle body to head was bad & leaking. I bought a new one, put in platinum Autolites, changed the oil, and started her up. Popping & missing! After trial & error, widening the plug gap from 032' to 037" made it driveable. Still misses slightly at starting out in 1st (low RPM throttle opening). Idle in the garage no miss. Since I could tell air was getting past old seal, I figured it sped up the idle, since now it idles real slow. So I turn the air screw & LH works fine RH does nothing. Either all in or out no change. I squirted air flow cleaner & wiped out dirt, squirted while running, squirted into air screw hole, still nothing. LH old plug was lean, RH old plug was rich.

All my background says timing & ignition but when I read the book - no timing adjustment and Hall sensor adjustment way to deep. Maiden voyage home 8 miles seemed ok, I don't remember the miss. So would a semi-clogged injector cause this? 1/2 to 3/4 throttle @ speed all is well. Is the high sensitivty of the spark plug gap normal? Do I need to send out the throttle body to clean it? I put in fuel injector cleaner in the tank but it is 20 deg at night/ 35 deg day so I can't put any miles on it.

Funny thing is I have a '73 R75 with the RH carb same problem, idle screw ineffective. What's up with the RH side?!!

I know I was long winded and asked alot of questions, thanks in advance!

Matt K.
A couple of Beemers
A couple of Triumph projects

Well, further investigation: the vacuum tube to RH throttle body was disconnected & throttle body port was plugged. So I hooked it back up - even worse. The LH side tube is not there. I must pull the tank and go over the whole fuel system. Got a 10 mile ride in today and definitely the RH cylinder not firing at low rpm. So I've come to the conclusion that after 13 years & 80K miles, several mechanics had there hands in there & my problems might be simple or complex - we'll see.

I wouldn't give my questions too much thought until I look under the tank. Any hints would be appreciated.

Thanks, Matt

Tonight's update: The RH injector spray is noticeably weaker than the LH. I swapped injectors and same thing so injectors OK. Since there is only 1 wire from the Motronic unit, it must be electrical & under the tank.

The hose that was disconnected on the throttle body was vapor recovery from the charcoal canister, which is not there so that's why it was plugged up.

Matt K.

Today's Update;
You can't get there from here! Way too much stuff in the way to get to the fuel pressure regulator to see if the RH line is 1/2 clogged. Electrical connectors go into the bottom of the biggest wire bundle. The electrical contacts look clean on both.

So I'm down to a clogged fuel filter or inadequate pump pressure. If the fuel pressure is low, maybe by chance the bulk goes to the LH injector and not enough pressure to go full stream on the RH. That's the theory I'm working on now. I blew air up all disconnected lines and nothing flew out. I'm going to squirt clean fuel down the pressure tube to see if equal flow out both tubes to the injectors. Ran out of time, will spend all Saturday working on it.

Have to get it running cause it cost $50 to fill the car's tank yesterday.

Matt K.

Seems like it all came down to the fuel filter. Changed the filter and put new o-rings on everything I took off, and the thing runs great. I pumped about a cup of fuel through each supply line to the injectors before hooking up the injectors. Now both idle adjustment screws work fine, plugs at correct gap. I think it idles a little fast now but not sure since OAT is 36 deg F.

I'm going to try hooking up the fuel tank vent without the charcoal canister. If it just sucks air, I'll cap off the lines again.

Hope my ramblings help somebody else.

Matt

I have really enjoyed following your progress and am happy that it sounds like you have everything worked out. Take that canister off, man - It'll make the bike lighter for your track days

I am glad you got it running.....I am thinking about changing my fuel filter....is it a big deal??

hendrix89 wrote:I am thinking about changing my fuel filter....is it a big deal??

No! but preparation is the key, you will need to mark with tape the two fuel lines & two breather lines
so you dont cross them over, you will need something soft to place the tank on whilst removing
the fuel pump as its upside down and you dont want any scratches which will be on top of the tank
i used a piece of carpet which is barely adequate i think the best would be an old bean bag to place the tank
on.

Dont overtighten the fuel pump mounting plate nuts, i also replaced the "o" ring... $9 well worth it, the nuts were $15

Once the plate is loose you will need to remove the 2 internal breather hoses the clips are a BMW non reusable type
which i relaced with the normal screw type ones (careful not all screw type ones will fit) look for small sized clips
not the $2 ones from a garage.

A bit of a wiggle and out she comes, it is worthwhile also changing the hoses from the pump to the filter as its
fully submersed in fuel 24 hours a day (get the picture).

cheers arbee

Please PM if you require further assistance.