oil filter choice

[kantuckid]

I was just revisiting this topic and ran across a cutaway oil filter -with my part #11 42 1 460 845- that did not show the extra screens shown in cyclerobs cutaway filter. The web article was dated 1999. Have these been more recently improved is my question and was this based on a problem? Has anyone seen an actual study where the filtration of filters was measured in some way? There are lots of cutaway studies on the net but all are eyeball studies not filtration research. It is a hard thing to deal with being a tightwad!

On my Toyota Tundra I deal with the filter issue by paying for a premium filter and also by buying a filter that is about twice as long as the OEM #, which is smaller than the one we get from BMW for the R1150R.
I too, cut up my last filter and it had the extra screen. I have been getting these from Chicago BMW for $13.68 ea.

[boxermania]

Filters, in general, have three common elements:

A) Ability to remove particles - Absolute vs nominal. 10 micron absolute means that any particles 10 micron and above will be removed with about 99.8 % efficiency, 10 micron Nominal means that most of the particles 10 micron and above will be removed.

B) Duration in service - this usually depends on the physical area of the element, i.e. the more the area the longer it will take to plug-up

C) Bypass check - Some filters have it and some don't. A valve that will bypass the filter if the element is plugged-up, the downside is that there is no way to tell if and when that takes place.

So the best course of action is:

1) If you have not compared filter specifications stay with the OEM
2) Change the filter at the OEM recomended intervals
3) If there is a filter with the same qualities as the OEM, but less expensive, by all means use it.

[kantuckid]

"with the same qualities " seems to be the kicker

[Airman]

I just finished doing some onlline research on oil filters for motorcycles and was looking for a good replacement for the BMW filter. I found that Fram filters are the absolute bottom,( You don't use them for anything) and the Purolator Pure One is the top of the commercially available filters. The BMW filters are $14 each at the dealer, $11 from Chicago BMW. I weighed all the factors and decided to go with the Purolator PL10241. I think this is a good replacement filter for the boxer. Amazon sells these filters at a good price. I was able buy them at 2 for $11. I ordered them with some other stufff and got free shipping. They look good and the reviews are good. I don't think these are a compromise, and they are much more economical.

[boxermania]

Airman +1, good choice on the Purolator

[dnat928]

I have been using the Bosch oil filter lately. My only selection criterium is the name. Does anyone here have any feedback or information on the Bosch filter?

[kantuckid]

You apparently looked at the same "study" I did. That guy doesn't look at BMW OEM filters and still, the question is "which filters better", not what they "look like inside"? I have not seen a scientific study yet-cyclerob comes closer than that "study" to what is the best BMW filter by discovering that there is a filter screen ,etc., in the OEM. BTW, you can buy the Pure One filters at Advance auto parts stores for around $6 ea.

[Sunbeemer]

I have read on another forum that the BMW oil filter bypass pressure is 2.5 bar, which converts very nearly to 36psi. Some of the filters I've seen recommended (not by dealers) for use in oilheads have bypass pressures significantly lower. For instance, both Frams mentioned (the 6063 and 3614) have bypass settings of 9-11 psi and 9-12 psi respectively, while the Fram 3816 also recommended for our engines has a bypass setting of 30-37psi. These data came from Rob Lentini's contribution to http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/partsubs.shtml#KOilfilter that he says are from Fram's catalog. I have no reason to doubt their accuracy.

I would imagine then that these lower pressure bypass filters aren't doing much filtering at all since they are bypassing oil around the filter media through the bypass valve all the time the engine is running. I can't imagine the engine makes less than 11 or 12 psi oil pressure except on a warm day at idle, so when it is producing more pressure than the bypass valve is set to open for (which should be almost always), the oil should largely take the path of least resistance and bypass the filter, and thus it will not get filtered.

Is there some flaw in this logic I've overlooked?

If not, then it would seem that using a filter with too low a bypass valve specification could slowly ruin the engine by allowing destructive dirt to accumulate in the oil through lack of filtration.

[Hawk]

My online research also lead me to the Purolator Pure One filters.

[NoRRmad]

Sunbeemer --

The bypass valve doesn't see the full oil-pump pressure unless the filter is fully clogged, allowing no flow through the filter element. If the filter is clean, only a few pounds of pressure bears on the bypass. As the filter clogs, this pressure rises. The lower bypass pressure setting means that filtration stops sooner, and the filter must then be replaced.

On the other hand, if the oil pump doesn't produce enough pressure to pop the bypass, then a fully-clogged filter will just stop oil flow. Not a good thing.

I assume that the R's oil pump puts out something more than 2.5 bar, so those lower bypass pressures just mean that you have to replace the filter sooner. The hard question is how do you know that the bypass valve is opening. Dunno the answer to that, so I'd just replace the low-pressure filters more frequently; from the ratio of pressures, I'd guess the low pressure filters to last about one-third the milage.

[CycleRob]

The 3 main functions of the filter bypass valve is to release the excess pressure that occurs when the oil is very cold and it will not pass thru the filter paper as easily, when the hot engine is revved high and the oil filter cannot filter the high flow rate -and- when the filter paper is saturated with sludge and fine particles. All those main filter bypass conditions are not that rare and the oil bypassed is directed thru the BMW filter's ultra fine plastic screen to be filtered.

We've covered this topic before, presented the evidence and came to really only one conclusion. At least I did. Even though I am extremely frugal, I just spread the price difference between the AC Delco filter and the BMW one over 6,000 miles of riding and it's about $2/month. After seeing the very rare additional internal bypass oil filter screen and quality materials inside the (cut open) stock BMW oil filter, I decided they were worth the premium cost. Considering how very long it takes to ride the 6,000 mile (9,656km) oil change interval, I felt it was wiser to save money somewhere else. With Chicago BMW's -20% off retail a yearly order of air & oil filters (no tax!!) minimizes the $9+ shipping cost.

Do not compare only the cost. There is a real quality and engine protection feature inside the BMW filter. Just like the Engineers wanted.


.

[Airman]

I have been using the Bosch oil filter lately. My only selection criterium is the name. Does anyone here have any feedback or information on the Bosch filter?

This guy:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
believes the Bosch is a pretty good filter. If you surf though this site and look at the cut apart filters you can see there's a difference in brands. Maybe Cyclerob will drop in his cut open filter photos for us. There seems to be quite a few decent filters out there. The Frams seem to be pretty bad. I've used Fram filters for years on cars and trucks and I think I'll be using the Purolators on them now too.

Maybe something that should be addressed here as well as the filters, is the use of alternative oils. I did this same kind of online research on oils and ended up using Castrol GTX 20-50. I have been thinking a lighter oil would be nice the last few weeks as the engine is slow to crank when it gets down around 35 degrees..
I usually like to change the oil at 3000 miles. I started using the GTX because the BMW dealer raised the price of oil approx. $2 a quart over a two year period. Perhaps I might seem cheap, but the cost is double for the BMW products and I don't see very much difference in quality; maybe none.

[Airman]

You apparently looked at the same "study" I did. That guy doesn't look at BMW OEM filters and still, the question is "which filters better", not what they "look like inside"? I have not seen a scientific study yet-cyclerob comes closer than that "study" to what is the best BMW filter by discovering that there is a filter screen ,etc., in the OEM. BTW, you can buy the Pure One filters at Advance auto parts stores for around $6 ea.

I checked around a bit for the Purolator filters. Schucks wanted $11 for the PL10241. I got two for that price from Amazon, no tax, no shipping.
Most of the usual suspects, Fred Meyer, Walmart, Target, Auto Zone, didn't carry Purolator. Auto Zone does carry Bosch and K&M.

[boxermania]

Everyone has a choice and their choice is defined by their research, the cost, durability, other people opinions and even gut feel.

I'm not taking a position against my friend CyleRob as his selection/logic is sound and serves his needs, however it is important to clarify that the BMW sourced filter is not the "best" out there.

I'm qualfying best because I have suficient knowledge of the industry and typically each OEM will feature one or two special characteristics on their filter.....pleated element, paper, polymeric....etc to tout their product superior to the next leaving aside the original purpose of the product ......filtering oil for a reasonable amount of time.

To eliminate some of the potential underlying fear that users might have, let me say that in my life with rotating equipment of all types and manufacture I have seen only one plugged filter on automotive applications and a few on fixed equipment and guess what was the reason......lack of service/maintenance. Rest assured that you will not plug a filter under normal use.....even if you were to double your present use.

Likewise the 9 lbs to 12 lbs setting on the bypass valve is derived from the industry standard that a filter should be replaced when there is a presure drop (Delta P) of 10 pounds accross the element. Most of the large/critical equipment in industry measure and alarm when the Delta reaches this level. Bypass level settings above this value are application specific and will have to be evaluated on the criteria used for the selection.

[Sunbeemer]

I knew there had to be hole in that logic, thanks for pointing it out, seriously.

This is more than just academic since I changed my oil Saturday even though it only had been 2000 miles since the last change (lots of short commutes though), so I was just going to replace the oil, nevermind the filter. Then realized I didn't have any oil, so I went to Advance Auto and they had Castrol on sale ($8/gal) so I bought that, but then remembered I'd put Valvoline in last time, so I wanted to dump that out of the (BMW)filter (to reduce mixing different oils), so I took off the (BMW) filter and the gasket stuck to the block. I peeled it off and upon close examination, found it had torn around the face, so I went back to Advance Auto (again)and had to buy a Fram 3614 filter to replace it (the only one they had that would fit). Then I read this thread and started thinking too much about it and I'm glad you all straightened me out. That's what I get for thinking too late at night.

So my 15 minute oil change turned into 1-1/2 hour multi-parts-store-trip project AAAGGH!

BTW...I have very small oil smudges appearing at the tranny/engine block juncture, indicating a leaking rear main seal, I think.
I've had this happen before using Valvoline in my van, then after going back to Castrol the seals, ah, sealed! Anybody else noticed this about Valvoline? We'll see if they stop now with Castrol back in there....
{NOT TRYING TO HIJACK THIS TO AN OIL THREAD, JUST ASKING A QUESTION}

[towerworker]

Advance auto also sells the AC Delco pf 53. I've been running that one for 5 years now in my r. I had never read the recommendation on the Purolator. Might look at that too.

It has simply been a matter of convience for me. I seldom think to buy a supply of filters when I go to my dealer which is 2 hours away.

wayne

[twindave]

OEM...hands down. There is no alternative IMHO. No offence to the McGuyver in all of us.

[adg44]

Even with all my cars, there is only one constant for me - I only use the OEM filters. I never use the K&N, Purolator, Fram, etc. The cost is only marginally more expensive, and it gives peace of mind.

[Airman]

Even with all my cars, there is only one constant for me - I only use the OEM filters. I never use the K&N, Purolator, Fram, etc. The cost is only marginally more expensive, and it gives peace of mind.

To some extent I can support your thinking on filter quality. I think BMW makes a good filter. I can afford to pay $15 for an oil filter and $5/QT for BMW oil. Nor do I think I'm saving the planet by not using the gallon of gas required to go to the dealer to buy them. I does please me however, to to the research and find quality alternatives to the OEM products. As far marginal cost, I spent the last two years with on-off unemployment and paying three times the cost of that filter twice the cost of the oil would force the delay of the servicing. It is good, I think to offer alternatives. I think Castrol GTX and the Purolator PL 10241 are equal or close to BMW quality, and with 3000 mile oil changes I enjoy saving the money. Think of it this way, take the money you saved on that oil change and buy a tank of gas and go riding.

[adg44]

To clarify a bit on my "OEM oil filter" statement, I don't necessarily mean you have to buy them from the dealer, but most VW/Audi oil filters are either Hengst, Mahle, or Mann. Then they are just rebranded with the VW or Audi logo and sold at 2x the cost. If you find a retailer that sells direct from the OE manufacturer, then you can get the same quality and save money at the same time.

I just generaly stay away from K&N, Fram, Purolator, etc, that you can buy at the local auto parts store, since they are not OEM suppliers.