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Can the FD boot be replaced without removing the FD. How difficult is it to remove the FD?

Robroy wrote:Can the FD boot be replaced without removing the FD. How difficult is it to remove the FD?

I don't believe you can replace the boot without pulling the FD. It isn't very difficult, but you will need some tools. ( Torque wrench, heat gun, 12 mm hex or allen wrench ) You have to heat the swing arm around the FD pivot carrier bolt to about 248 degrees F. to soften the industrial strength Loctite that Hans put on the threads when he put it together. Do not heat the actual bolt as it will expand in the threads and get tighter. ( You can then remove the lock nut and then the carrier bolt from the inside or medial pivot. Repeat the same for the outside pivot bearing carrier bolt and remove the FD. On reassembly, you should align the universal joints of the drive shaft ends the same way and put it together ( a little tricky ). Then reinstall the pivot bearing carrier bolts. ( Note: you should have cleaned the residual Loctite off the threads before reassembly with a wire brush or solvent ) Be sure to use red Loctite on reassembly. Torque the "fixed" pivot bearing carrier to 160 Nm and then the medial "non-fixed" carrier to 7 Nm. Then take a several hour break and drink a beer while the Loctite hardens. Then tighten the medial lock-nut to 160 Nm. You will have removed the Link arm to the FD. Re-tighten it to 43 Nm and you're finished.

By the way, follow this thread for what to do and not to during the procedure:

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=12411&start=0

Robroy

If you haven't been exposed to Red Loctite removal via heat application I would strongly suggest you defer the work to someone knowledgeable on the subject matter, lest you might end with a multi headed monster that will cramp both your ridding time and pocket.

Aluminum and steel have diferent coefficients of expansion and even if the Loctite has lost it's bond you could have also heat soaked the aluminum in effect clamping onto the steel bolt......you will them shear the aluminum threads if removal is attempted.

What is fascinating to me is that no one has designed a split boot, like those in automotive use. Unless the seal is bad, there isn't much oil present inside the boot.

In any event, I wish you the best of luck and hope everything goes as expected.