BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hello to all beemer riders! Three times in the last two months, my bike has completely shut down when coming off decent acceleration into a red light. In all cases, I've been downshifting from sixth gear and somewhere in the transition the panel lights up and the engine simply cuts out. In the most recent case, I was still doing about 30 mph, so I simply popped the clutch in fourth and was able to refire the engine. I've been warned that doing so is a tad dangerous with a shaft drive. My bike has 13,300 miles on it and is otherwise in mint condition. I will add that in all occasions the air temp is in the 90's and I had been riding for at least an hour or two. Any clues?

Your bike's idle might be set a little bit low or you might have some water in your fuel. Try putting some Sea Foam in your tank, checking your idle, and re-setting your TPS.

Welcome to the board. I live in Millersville off of Benfield Blvd. I think I saw you riding a few days ago on Benfield. Do you know about the local BMW club? http://www.bmwbmw.org/bmwforums/index.php

They have tech days and might be able to check out your bike.

Dauntless, thank you for the response. Out of the thousands of posters, its ironic you are a mile or two away. I would be interested in the club. I've heard of one that rides on Sunday mornings out of Annapolis. If its rolling tomorrow, I'm in. I'll check that link you sent. Thanks again for the reply. You likely did see me, I'm always on Benfield Blvd. White Shoei Helmet, black Olympia Airflow jacket.

Hi Barney... another BMWBMW club member here.



Check out the "Tech" forum at that link. There's a Tech Day coming up. We've got those happening about monthly it seems.

P

Hi Barney,

I think I have the same problem and also asked for help :

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

Some other posters had also experienced similar problems.
Following the advices, I checked the throttle speed and did a TBS.
It helped a little. The problem happens less often but is still around.

Guys,

A while back some of the bikes of your particular vintage had issues with the nylon ties used to secure the wiresd to the frame and in some cases chaffing and breaking into the wire.

Maybe some of the old posters remember, CycleRob, Whaycoc, Boxer, Brian, Dean......

Lion_Lady wrote:Hi Barney... another BMWBMW club member here.

And another.

If none of the other suggestions work, the hall sensor is worth a shot. My bike had problems from when I bought it brand new, with cutting off when over 4000 rpm. Let off the throttle and it would fire back up.

You may want to check for a cracked coil pack. It sounds like during low cycle demands, the coil is able to fulfill the needs; however, it may not be able to handle the load at high loads. The additional heat from the summer may also cause the coil pack to fail during high loads.

There have been cases in which the coil packs have ohm'd out correctly, yet discovered bad when replaced with a new unit.

ProductUser

Thank you to all for your input. I rode about 150 miles this past weekend and I did not experience any stalling at all. I do believe my battery is shot, but I'm not certain it is related in any way. I plan on replacing it within the week. I've been plugging the bike in almost nightly. Thanks again for the replies.

Has anyone found anthing definitive regarding the stalling issue. My wifes newly aquired 2005 Rockster has done this to her twice within the last 3 weeks. I spoke to the previous owner (a good friend of ours) and he had not experienced this ever. The bike just had its 18K service before I picked it up. Is there anything that may have been done wrong during the service that could cause this.

Thanks in advance....

-Terry

2 main offenders, with the 1150R the usual suspect is the coil pack just pop'em out & look for any rust on the joint if its there then its on its way out...its the major weak point on this ignition system

Next & not as common is the (TPS) throttle position sensor when it starts to go, you'll get stalling rolling off throttle, sudden cutting out for no apparent reason, suddenly running rough & then settling down (totally frustrating)

.....best trick is to check the ecu if you've got a fault record of more than 6 then its, get a replacement time.....

If stalling is due to the TPS it might be worthwhile disconnecting the battery, reconnecting and then doing the motronic reset procedure. This involves turning the ignition on (but not firing the engine) and then turning the twistgrip through its full travel a couple of times. I can see how this would be missed after a visit to the shop.

My R has a tendency to stall during throttle "blips" during downshifting. I always re-fire the engine with the starter rather than by popping the clutch. It's so easy to get out of shape if it's slippery.

Tom

Will check both of those things and report back if either of them solves the problem. I have an 1150GS and have never had this issue.

-Terry

Qfman thats correct for reseting the throttle positioning

it doesn't reset the ecu only 2 ways to do that

However if the TPS is shot, as a sealed unit you bin it & replace as they are much cheaper than coil packs ......btw if its giving problems as described you'll find your fuel economy heading down the toilet....as it will be dumping fuel in the second the the throttle is open......only feels normal when the demand matches whats being supplied

As you're in Oz you can get in touch with Bosch Australia, you'll most likely find its made there, they make a lot of the BMW's equipment there
eg: hall effect unit $60Aus from bosch or $300 from BMW

as for ecu access either BMW's GT1 or a GS911 that'll allow you to make changes to your ecu, & reset faults....
eg: drop the bike standing still you still need to reset the ABS

Almost forgot if you balance the engine via the ECU interface you'll find it's the Seriously SMOOTH...

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