BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

First time poster -- long time reader....

Just purchased my first BMW a month ago -- an 04 Rockster with 10,000 miles on it. Since, I've put on about 2,000 miles. My first ride was in N. Carolica to the tail of the dragon. Felt good...just need to learn that the pegs scrape quicker than my previous bike.First impreesion overall though, was I LOVE the bike. Love the looks! Everyone asks what it is since they are pretty rare to our area. I came off an 05 FZ1. Miss the power, but sure like the torque of the Rock.

I did have to replace the oil cap as it leaked oil. The service tech said that's common. I am now coming up to my 12,000 mile service. being I've never owned a BMW, is that pretty spendy? Do a lot of you do it yourselves? Anything else I should watch for?

Any comments are cetainly welcomed and appreciated.

It can get expensive to use dealer services for every service.

12K service is basically an air filter clean up, spark plug replace, oil and filter change, inspect trans and final drive fluid and replace if needed, flush and fill primary brake circuit, inspect and replace brake pads if needed, true rotors, inspect and replenish or replace clutch fluid (DOT4), check battery specific gravity, cable adjustments as needed, nuts and bolts tightened up and re-torques all around AND the valve check/adjust and throttle body sync. And the computer fault code check (Motronic). Except for this last item, you can easily do it all yourself.

Other potential items include fuel filter, fuel pump, light bulbs and various hose clamps (especially the fuel lines at the quick disconnects).

And tire tread wear, valve stem condition, air pressure, etc.

Practically, I always had the dealer do the brake fluid parts as well as the Motronic checks.

The archive threads have links to most of the do it yourself instructions. The investment in tools and knowledge is modest. I believe anybody with an afternoon free (longer the first time) can learn and do 95% of the required maintenance and services. My ten year old helps me and she 'gets' it.

yellowfinch11 wrote:First time poster -- long time reader....

Just purchased my first BMW a month ago -- an 04 Rockster with 10,000 miles on it. Since, I've put on about 2,000 miles. My first ride was in N. Carolica to the tail of the dragon. Felt good...just need to learn that the pegs scrape quicker than my previous bike.First impreesion overall though, was I LOVE the bike. Love the looks! Everyone asks what it is since they are pretty rare to our area. I came off an 05 FZ1. Miss the power, but sure like the torque of the Rock.

I did have to replace the oil cap as it leaked oil. The service tech said that's common. I am now coming up to my 12,000 mile service. being I've never owned a BMW, is that pretty spendy? Do a lot of you do it yourselves? Anything else I should watch for?

Any comments are cetainly welcomed and appreciated.

The leak around the oil cap can usually be solved by cleaning around that area.

Get yourself some Ohlins suspension when the current shocks go kaput (which is should be any time now). The Ohlins are not that much more expensive than the stock Tokico or whatever Jap crap BMW uses, yet are a lot better. Should help mitigate the pegs dragging a bit.

BMW dealers are not cheap when it comes to services, and yes you can do a lot yourself. The bike doesn't really need that much service other than oil change. Check to make sure that the valves are adjusted correctly (you probably need a dealer for this or at least someone who's Beemer savvy) because unfortunately they don't get set correctly from the factory.

Make sure that the throttles are synched. Once again, I don't know why BMW can't synch these damn things right from the factory. Use the dealer if you have to, or you can do it yourself with the TwinMax and some help from the historical search in this forum on how to do throttle synchs.

The Rock has a dry clutch so don't sit too long at the stop light with the clutch lever in. Put the bike in neutral.

When things get hot and you're crawling due to bad traffic, you will hear the valves ticking loudly. They do that and it's OK.

Unless you're doing some wild and crazy stuff to your engine, dino bone oil is just fine and saves you a good chunk of money.

Sargent seat is your best friend on long haul. Corbin sucks. I have both and Sargent is top notch.

And yes, she is a mite slow but she can take a decent corner and generally amusing.

Thank you both for your input!

In my FZ1, I ran the Mobil 1 syntehtic. Is that oil not a good choice for this bike? Upon buying the bike, the guy gave me the BWM brand oil which I have used to date. Any advanteges or recommendations in changing oil?

I have looked at the Ohlin shocks. Aren't they around $700.00 dollars!?! Ouch!

I do seem to have a sputter when I am on the throttle in first and second. Could that be due to your comment about BMW not synching the throttles? It's not real bad, just noticeable.

Dry clutch ha? Didn't know that either. I should stop playing the clutch then when going slow? I did notice 1st gear is very tall compared to what I am used to!

Again, thanks for all the input!

YF11,

I use Mobile 1 Synth exclusively once my vehicles get to about 10k Miles. Can't go wrong there in my opinion. I agree with the previous comments that a good valve adjustment and especially a good TB adjust will make a world of difference in power delivery and smoothness. You will always have some vibe with this engine but it should be just enough to add character

Well, I just called the local BMW service technician. At 12,000 miles they recommend a level 2 service. Basically all the things listed by MikeCam. Total cost would be $229.10. That does not include the 94.80 to bleed and refill the brake fluid.

They are also a month out...

Just an FYI...

yellowfinch11 wrote:Thank you both for your input!

In my FZ1, I ran the Mobil 1 syntehtic. Is that oil not a good choice for this bike? Upon buying the bike, the guy gave me the BWM brand oil which I have used to date. Any advanteges or recommendations in changing oil?

I have looked at the Ohlin shocks. Aren't they around $700.00 dollars!?! Ouch!

I do seem to have a sputter when I am on the throttle in first and second. Could that be due to your comment about BMW not synching the throttles? It's not real bad, just noticeable.

Dry clutch ha? Didn't know that either. I should stop playing the clutch then when going slow? I did notice 1st gear is very tall compared to what I am used to!

Again, thanks for all the input!

The BMW oil is just Castro rebadged. Hell, you read the operator's manual and it'll suggest Castro too. If you feel like the bike warrants synthetic then by all means, but I stick with dino bones, Castro GTX to be specific. This bike's oil doesn't need the fancy additives that motorcycle specific oils have for lubing the clutch because it's a...well, dry clutch.

Apropos of nothing, I run semi-synth for my Aprilia because that's what recommended at the factory.

Anyway, Ohlins shocks if ordered online should run around $650 each (one for the front and one for the rear). Price out the Jap crap BMW stock unit and tell me you're not better off with Ohlins. And the Ohlins last longer too. I barely put mine on but another member said that his was good for 20,000-miles before it needs rebuilding. The stock ones go to hell by 14,000-miles and you can't rebuild them.

Some people have also used Works Performance shocks (a bit cheaper than Ohlins but not by much). Some prefer Wilber but apparently the Wilber importer for the USA couldn't get the deal going or something like that, so no Wilber for US right now. Hyperpro also makes shocks for BMWs but I don't know if you can get them in the US.

The sputtering could be from throttle synch, or from valves not adjusted correctly. When the valves are properly adjusted and the throttle bodies synched, it runs considerably smoother and you can feel the preppier, more eagerness to rev too.

I have been sorely disappointed by BMW dealerships. You pay pretty damn good money for their supposed expertise and you don't get it. I am now lucky enough to have a Beemer guru who takes care of my baby for me.

Unless you have ABS in your bike which will requires the fancy diagnostic system to work on and adjust, most of the Rockster is simple mechanical. The Motronics is called Moronic because it's so simple, which is not a bad thing now and then.

I had a Power Commander installed and dyno tuned to the bike. Coupled with a K&N filter and Remus Y-pipe & can, she sings a happy tune. Now with the Ohlins on, she dances like a ballerina too.

Don't get me wrong, she ain't no svelte Ducati or lissome Aprilia but she still boogey along nicely.