BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

AZBMWRIDER wrote:You don't have to drain all the oil out, just unscrew the drain plug and release a bit of oil at a time and keep checking the sight glass until you get the oil to the correct level .

Do this when the oil is cold !!!!!!!!

Ok so in that case I'm going to goto the bike after a day or so when it's bone cold.
Start to drain the oil as I examine the sight glass.
Once it is at the halfway mark, tighten the bolt and I should be at the proper oil level, correct?

MThomas wrote:

AZBMWRIDER wrote:You don't have to drain all the oil out, just unscrew the drain plug and release a bit of oil at a time and keep checking the sight glass until you get the oil to the correct level .

Do this when the oil is cold !!!!!!!!

Ok so in that case I'm going to goto the bike after a day or so when it's bone cold.
Start to drain the oil as I examine the sight glass.
Once it is at the halfway mark, tighten the bolt and I should be at the proper oil level, correct?

No.

sigh

As said - the correct level is found when the bike is HOT (30 minute ride hot).

you can drain some oil off when it's cold (it's safer when cold because it's not going to burn your hand), but you will then need to ride the bike, get it HOT, then go through the procedure described before to CHECK the level is better.
(Remember to properly re-tighten the drain plug!)

Here - hope these help - took these monday night when I put 500ml into my bike:





They're not brilliantly clear - but you should be able to see the oil level in the sight glass. Note the darker / lighter contrast and see if that helps you check the levels on your bike.

I'll use an extension to loosen the drain plug while the oil is hot, enough to let oil drain as I can monitor the window then tighten it up.
It'll be messy, but all in the name of accuracy

OK. I Give UP!!
Even after an experienced motorcycle mechanic's concise, detailed, simplified, pictorial explanation focused on the REASONS WHY the oil window WILL lie to you -and- the correct procedure to follow to ALWAYS get the correct oil window reading, it is all ignored in favor of just winging it. Good luck with that recommended hot oil drain.

MThomas, this post tells me there should not be any future attempts to ask for help in doing a valve adjustment, TB synch, wheel removal, fueltank removal, air filter change or even a transmission oil change as there is a high probability of either causing expen$ive damage or an accident on the road. Take it to a BMW dealer!!

Amen!!!

MThomas wrote:I'll use an extension to loosen the drain plug while the oil is hot, enough to let oil drain as I can monitor the window then tighten it up.
It'll be messy, but all in the name of accuracy

If you genuinely think it's over full, just ride it. You won't do any damage - the excess will just be burnt off, or pushed into the airbox where you can empty it safely.
See photos below for location of air-box drain plug.






DO NOT open the drain plug when the bike is hot (unless you're ACTUALLY draining the full amount), the oil will be as thin as water and will gush.

riceburner wrote:If you genuinely think it's over full, just ride it. You won't do any damage

Good to know, I'll just keep riding and keep checking. Probably I'll drain the airbox before the next ride.

riceburner wrote:the excess will just be burnt off, or pushed into the airbox where you can empty it safely.
See photos below for location of air-box drain plug.

I opened the airbox plug before and after riding and both times only a few drops of oil came out.

So I drained about 1/3 qt out of the oil drain plug and everything seems to now be in line with the discussion.

If I may, at this point, simplify the oil check process for those, like me, who are new to the R1150 bike (and wondering why it can't be simpler/more straight forward):

1. Checking the oil on an R1150r is not a simple/straight forward as checking the level in a car.
2. If the oil is overfilled you won't damage the bike, see post above.
3. Ride the bike for at least 20 minutes.
4. Turn off the bike.
5. Put it on the sidestand for 2-3 minutes.
6. Put it on the centerstand for 2-3 minutes.
7. Check the level in the window.
The window displays a range of about 1/2 quart.
If the oil level line is within the window, you are ok. Ideally it should be at the midpoint so if it is lower you can add a small amount.
If it is toward the upper end of the window but still visible you are ok, I wouldn't do anything.
If the window is completely clear, add 1/4 quart and recheck to see if the oil level is now within the window. (and re-add as necessary)
If the window is completely dark, drain about 1/4 quart and recheck to see if the oil level is now within the window. (and re-drain as necessary)

There are so many errors in your "conclusions" (only 1 and 4 are totally true) that ALL of it should be totally ignored. The fully detailed, precise outline that covers all the important variables is in my post to this thread on Sept 21 here:
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?p=254250#p254250

I reread the post.

One incorrect assumption was that oil is burned off. Having owned a 996, burning off 1 quart every 1-2k miles is considered normal consumption. Apparently not the case here.

Allow me to revise and this may not be the final step-by-step but I think we're getting close:

1. Checking the oil on an R1150r is not a simple/straight forward as checking the level in a car.
2. Ride the bike for however long and hard it takes to get the right side oil cooler top hose connection so hot that your finger can't touch it without removing it immediately. This could be a 20 minute summer ride or a longer ride at higher rpms if the outside temperature is colder.
3. Turn off the bike.
4. Put it on the sidestand for at least 10 minutes.
5. Put it on the centerstand for at least 15 minutes, even overnight is fine.
7. Check the level in the window.
The window displays a range of about 1/2 quart.
If the oil level line is within the window, you are ok. Ideally it should be at the midpoint so if it is lower you can add a small amount.
If it is toward the upper end of the window but still visible you are ok.
If the window is completely clear, add 1/4 quart and recheck to see if the oil level is now within the window. (and re-add as necessary)
If the window is completely dark, drain about 1/4 quart and recheck to see if the oil level is now within the window. (and re-drain as necessary)

Just drained and refilled my engine when hot after a decent run. Filled up with 3.75 litres as per the owners manual. Oil level is now half way up the window. A satisfying job and not too much ended on the floor this time. Using Millers 20/50 semi synthetic SJ spec.
By the way 3.75 litres converts to 3.96 US quarts.

gregor wrote:Filled up with 3.75 litres as per the owners manual. Oil level is now half way up the window. . . . . By the way 3.75 litres converts to 3.96 US quarts.

I think you will find that when there is a proper HOT oil, side/center stand drain time shutdown that 3.96 US quarts will be at the top of the oil window.

FWIW I asked this question to a local BMW mechanic who told me to check it after riding by putting it on the center stand, shutting off the engine, and waiting between one to two minutes.

I warmed up the bike, shut it off, drained all the oil and removed the filter.
Replaced with a new filter and poured in 3.75 quarts.
Went for a ride.
Put it on the center stand and shut the engine off.
At the one minute mark the level was slightly below center.
At the 90 second mark the level was exactly at center.
At the two minute mark the level was slightly above center.

Now that I've experienced the bike a few thousand miles I can simplify this way further:
Put the bike on the center stand on a flat surface for the night.
Look at the level the next morning before taking the bike off the center stand.

That's the way I've been doing it for years. Keep it simple.