Learned something today, thanks. Never knew there had a been a change. My 2002 is cloudy, but I just need a flashlight and patience.Sunbeemer wrote:+1 on the above advice, and I would add that I have seen oil-check sight-glasses that were cloudy and that had partially melted from engine overheating.
2002 lenses were made from polycarbonate that would cloud up over time and/or melt under high temps, while the newer glass ones last longer, but are more fragile to install.
Clean the lens with soapy water and look through it with a flashlight for the mirror ~3/8" behind the lens. If the oil is above the top line of the window, it should look brownish inside, but if the oil is below the bottom line it should look water-clear. If the lens is too murky to see through, it's going to be hard to check your oil.
While you're there, look around the rubber seal between the sight glass and the crankcase for any telltale signs of oil weepage or leakage. There should be none.
Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Last edited by peels on Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
MThomas,
After almost 64,000 miles and almost 9 years of riding my 2002 R1150R I learned many things.

Let me give you the data you need to understand your bike's mysterious engine. We are trying to help you here but you seem to be way too influenced by your own conclusions because of what the oil window tells you, like, magically, without any signs of a leak or massive clouds of blue smoke the bike just used a LOT of oil on your last ride. The bottom of the oil window does NOT mean the engine is almost out of oil and needs oil to be added. The truth is that there is just over 3 Quarts of oil in the sump! CenterRedDot of the oil window (it contains 3.75 quarts!) does NOT mean the engine needs oil to be added!! There even seems to be a mystery of what a lighter or darker oil window means and how it correlates with side or centerstand, engine cold/warm/hot, engine running or turned off. Not knowing anything about the particulars or obvious quirks of the OilHead motor allows you to not understand the concept of Cold/Cool/Warm/AlmostHot oil REMAINING IN THE OIL COOLERS, VALVE COVERS, Cylinders, all internal moving parts and substantial crankcase inner wall surface areas. Those oil radiators and large internal surface areas RETAIN a LOT of oil, making the oil window a big fat LIAR . . . UNLESS you understand WHEN and ONLY WHEN it is telling you the TRUTH. The only way oil will drain from the oil radiators (air replacing the oil), on the sidestand, is when the right side oil cooler top hose connection metal pipe fitting finger touch test is SO hot that you MUST immediately "let go of it." That indicates the oil thermostat is OPEN, allowing the oil to drain from both radiators into the crankcase sump. You, like many other new-2-BMW riders also insist on adding oil when the centerstand oil level is AT the CenterRedDot of the oil window, which is 3.75 quarts in the engine. They add oil, like you did, in spite of the fact the engine was not hot enough because the 1 hour ride was during the winter or the bike not put on the sidestand for 10 plus minutes then the centerstand for 15 plus minutes. In very cold rides or shorter trips, to get the engine HOT enough use the lower transmission gears to maintain 4,000+ RPMs for your road speed for the last 10 minutes from your final destination to force/obtain a higher engine operating temperature. I always trusted an overnight drain for the final centerstand interval, after a proper burned finger 10 plus minute sidestand procedure. That CenterRedDot oil level is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to worry about -AND- is considered by seasoned/experienced OilHead owners as The Optimal "Full' mark for the oil level to minimize the bike's normal oil consumption. Even if the oil level was at lower-red circle (actually 3 quarts in the sump!!), it would still be safe enough to cruise at very high speeds for hours.
Click on these thumbnails to go to the pictures of the oil cooling circuit and the oil cooler circuit control thermostat taken apart. That brass oil thermostat is what causes so many OilHead riders to erroneously, routinely overfill the engine with oil.

If the oil level is above the oil window upper red circle, you need to drain out only a little more than the excess amount of oil. Drain out excess engine oil ONLY after you determine there was a proper burned finger HOT OIL shutdown -and- the before mentioned side then center stand time-outs. To drain out excess oil, do so as soon as the morning weather ensures the engine is COLD. First use an old toothbrush to solvent clean around the oil drain plug and bolt. With a clean drain pan underneath, loosen and remove the drain plug until at least a quart drains out, then quickly try to re-install it. Don't panic, cold oil flows slowly. I say at least a quart drains out so you only have to drain it once. Don't worry about too much draining before you get the threads started . . . that excess will be slowly, incrementally added to get to the oil level to CenterRedDot. If you go higher than the oil window's center-red-dot by choice, you will encourage more oil usage and combustion chamber deposits with absolutely no gains in safety or engine longevity. I have read about OilHead owners complain about there bike's engine (so carboned up) that it pings on premium grade gasoline. Ten-to-One he was neurotic about keeping that oil window full.
This picture will show you how far off the floor of the crankcase the bottom of the oil window is. That's where the 3+ quarts of oil remains out-of-sight.

.
After almost 64,000 miles and almost 9 years of riding my 2002 R1150R I learned many things.

Let me give you the data you need to understand your bike's mysterious engine. We are trying to help you here but you seem to be way too influenced by your own conclusions because of what the oil window tells you, like, magically, without any signs of a leak or massive clouds of blue smoke the bike just used a LOT of oil on your last ride. The bottom of the oil window does NOT mean the engine is almost out of oil and needs oil to be added. The truth is that there is just over 3 Quarts of oil in the sump! CenterRedDot of the oil window (it contains 3.75 quarts!) does NOT mean the engine needs oil to be added!! There even seems to be a mystery of what a lighter or darker oil window means and how it correlates with side or centerstand, engine cold/warm/hot, engine running or turned off. Not knowing anything about the particulars or obvious quirks of the OilHead motor allows you to not understand the concept of Cold/Cool/Warm/AlmostHot oil REMAINING IN THE OIL COOLERS, VALVE COVERS, Cylinders, all internal moving parts and substantial crankcase inner wall surface areas. Those oil radiators and large internal surface areas RETAIN a LOT of oil, making the oil window a big fat LIAR . . . UNLESS you understand WHEN and ONLY WHEN it is telling you the TRUTH. The only way oil will drain from the oil radiators (air replacing the oil), on the sidestand, is when the right side oil cooler top hose connection metal pipe fitting finger touch test is SO hot that you MUST immediately "let go of it." That indicates the oil thermostat is OPEN, allowing the oil to drain from both radiators into the crankcase sump. You, like many other new-2-BMW riders also insist on adding oil when the centerstand oil level is AT the CenterRedDot of the oil window, which is 3.75 quarts in the engine. They add oil, like you did, in spite of the fact the engine was not hot enough because the 1 hour ride was during the winter or the bike not put on the sidestand for 10 plus minutes then the centerstand for 15 plus minutes. In very cold rides or shorter trips, to get the engine HOT enough use the lower transmission gears to maintain 4,000+ RPMs for your road speed for the last 10 minutes from your final destination to force/obtain a higher engine operating temperature. I always trusted an overnight drain for the final centerstand interval, after a proper burned finger 10 plus minute sidestand procedure. That CenterRedDot oil level is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to worry about -AND- is considered by seasoned/experienced OilHead owners as The Optimal "Full' mark for the oil level to minimize the bike's normal oil consumption. Even if the oil level was at lower-red circle (actually 3 quarts in the sump!!), it would still be safe enough to cruise at very high speeds for hours.
Click on these thumbnails to go to the pictures of the oil cooling circuit and the oil cooler circuit control thermostat taken apart. That brass oil thermostat is what causes so many OilHead riders to erroneously, routinely overfill the engine with oil.

If the oil level is above the oil window upper red circle, you need to drain out only a little more than the excess amount of oil. Drain out excess engine oil ONLY after you determine there was a proper burned finger HOT OIL shutdown -and- the before mentioned side then center stand time-outs. To drain out excess oil, do so as soon as the morning weather ensures the engine is COLD. First use an old toothbrush to solvent clean around the oil drain plug and bolt. With a clean drain pan underneath, loosen and remove the drain plug until at least a quart drains out, then quickly try to re-install it. Don't panic, cold oil flows slowly. I say at least a quart drains out so you only have to drain it once. Don't worry about too much draining before you get the threads started . . . that excess will be slowly, incrementally added to get to the oil level to CenterRedDot. If you go higher than the oil window's center-red-dot by choice, you will encourage more oil usage and combustion chamber deposits with absolutely no gains in safety or engine longevity. I have read about OilHead owners complain about there bike's engine (so carboned up) that it pings on premium grade gasoline. Ten-to-One he was neurotic about keeping that oil window full.
This picture will show you how far off the floor of the crankcase the bottom of the oil window is. That's where the 3+ quarts of oil remains out-of-sight.

.
Last edited by CycleRob on Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Member since Sept 10, 2001
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"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
I think I'm starting to get it but I have to believe there's some after-market dipstick or other solution that allows me to check the oil level before a ride ... ?
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Give it up already and stop being paranoid. You have heard from allot of people with a vast amount of experience but you just don't seem to listen.
There is no way to put a dip stick on your engine period.
If it continues to kick your *ss you might consider selling the oil head and go buy something with a dip stick and loud pipes.
There is no way to put a dip stick on your engine period.
If it continues to kick your *ss you might consider selling the oil head and go buy something with a dip stick and loud pipes.
Last edited by kirby on Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
mike Mojave CA
'04 ROCKSTER
'04 ROCKSTER
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
nah, unless you're blowing blue smoke, or leaving an oil slick, no reason to constantly check it. And if it burns oil fast enough to cause a problem...youd be smoking like crazy, and well you have bigger problems than just low oil. LOL I noticed my valves tickin' in the cold the other day (hot out now) so did a check, first one since a long ride a few months ago. added a bit. Don't think it was down 1/4 a quart. 3000 miles.
excellent as usual cyclerob. thanks for posting the diagram of the oil system. I was wondering about that "mysterious system" as I was utilizing my "hand warmers" one day last week.
I'd bet you could probably lose half the oil in this thing and be "ok" to get home. its a pretty good cooling system. The engines rarely die in these things even when abused.
excellent as usual cyclerob. thanks for posting the diagram of the oil system. I was wondering about that "mysterious system" as I was utilizing my "hand warmers" one day last week.
I'd bet you could probably lose half the oil in this thing and be "ok" to get home. its a pretty good cooling system. The engines rarely die in these things even when abused.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
If you ever need to replace it let me know and I'll loan you a drift I turned from 1" PVC pipe that'll help install the new glass window intact.Learned something today, thanks. Never knew there had a been a change. My 2002 is cloudy, but I just need a flashlight and patience.
They'll break pretty easy (DAMHIK) but can be installed by applying uniform pressure on the rubber-embedded, metal case rim using no force on the window.
It took a surprising amount of effort to drive it in to the bore with a 4lb deadblow hammer even lubricated with alcohol (the bore that is, not me. I hope I'm not a bore)
Rich
ADIOS!
ADIOS!
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Dude it's a legitimate question, no need to be a dingle about itkirby wrote:Give it up already and stop being paranoid. You have heard from allot of people with a vast amount of experience but you just don't seem to listen.
There is no way to put a dip stick on your engine period.
If it continues to kick your *ss you might consider selling the oil head and go buy something with a dip stick and loud pipes.
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Sunbeemer wrote:If you ever need to replace it let me know and I'll loan you a drift I turned from 1" PVC pipe that'll help install the new glass window intact.Learned something today, thanks. Never knew there had a been a change. My 2002 is cloudy, but I just need a flashlight and patience.
They'll break pretty easy (DAMHIK) but can be installed by applying uniform pressure on the rubber-embedded, metal case rim using no force on the window.
It took a surprising amount of effort to drive it in to the bore with a 4lb deadblow hammer even lubricated with alcohol (the bore that is, not me. I hope I'm not a bore)
thats just pressed in hey?
cool. Hadnt even thought about replacing it.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Yeah, they're just press-fit into a smooth bore without sealant. A dealer's shop service-manager I talked to in NH said he thought his shop used silicone RTV to install them, and there are some You-Tube videos and internet references to replacing these using black RTV, but I read that sealer could fail down the road with engine-destroying results...
I've had silicone-coated gaskets squeeze out under pressure; it's slippery stuff that acts as a lubricant, and this part is just friction-fit in the crankcase.
BMW says they should be drifted in using only brake-cleaner as a quick-drying lubricant, which I found dried too quick, so I used rubbing alcohol instead.
Here's a link to the part: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 1118523906
Click on the ".PDF" file to download the replacement procedure. BTW, I couldn't find anybody who had the very special tools used in this procedure!
I probably wouldn't do this unless the sight glass was totally unusable or was leaking at all.
BMW says they should be drifted in using only brake-cleaner as a quick-drying lubricant, which I found dried too quick, so I used rubbing alcohol instead.
Here's a link to the part: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 1118523906
Click on the ".PDF" file to download the replacement procedure. BTW, I couldn't find anybody who had the very special tools used in this procedure!
I probably wouldn't do this unless the sight glass was totally unusable or was leaking at all.
Rich
ADIOS!
ADIOS!
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
MThomas wrote:Dude it's a legitimate question, no need to be a ---- about itkirby wrote:Give it up already and stop being paranoid. You have heard from allot of people with a vast amount of experience but you just don't seem to listen.
There is no way to put a dip stick on your engine period.
If it continues to kick your *ss you might consider selling the oil head and go buy something with a dip stick and loud pipes.
It may have been a legitimate question the first time you asked but it was answered multiple times.
Grow up
mike Mojave CA
'04 ROCKSTER
'04 ROCKSTER
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Yes - it's a legitimate question, and you've had several completely, and thorough legitimate answers. Sometimes you need to just accept what you're told.MThomas wrote:Dude it's a legitimate question, no need to be a ---- about itkirby wrote:Give it up already and stop being paranoid. You have heard from allot of people with a vast amount of experience but you just don't seem to listen.
There is no way to put a dip stick on your engine period.
If it continues to kick your *ss you might consider selling the oil head and go buy something with a dip stick and loud pipes.
- riceburner
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Sunbeemer wrote:Yeah, they're just press-fit into a smooth bore without sealant. A dealer's shop service-manager I talked to in NH said he thought his shop used silicone RTV to install them, and there are some You-Tube videos and internet references to replacing these using black RTV, but I read that sealer could fail down the road with engine-destroying results...I've had silicone-coated gaskets squeeze out under pressure; it's slippery stuff that acts as a lubricant, and this part is just friction-fit in the crankcase.
BMW says they should be drifted in using only brake-cleaner as a quick-drying lubricant, which I found dried too quick, so I used rubbing alcohol instead.
Here's a link to the part: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 1118523906
Click on the ".PDF" file to download the replacement procedure. BTW, I couldn't find anybody who had the very special tools used in this procedure!
I probably wouldn't do this unless the sight glass was totally unusable or was leaking at all.
I've not had to try to do it - but would the old trick* of sticking the new window in the freezer overnight work?
* Normally used for bearing races.
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
Unless you see a puddle of oil under your bike, you are fine. When on the kickstand, the oil glass should be at half or less, but never empty. The sight glass is the dipstick, as long as you see the line in the sight glass, there is more oil hiding in the places Rob states above.
If you take a ride, and park the bike, and 10 minutes later, see nothing in the sight glass, you might need to add some. Usually less than 1 quart, as stated above, overfilling is a pain in the butt. The bike takes 3.7 quarts, not 4 quarts of oil when changing it.
Relax and ride, winter is on its way....
If you take a ride, and park the bike, and 10 minutes later, see nothing in the sight glass, you might need to add some. Usually less than 1 quart, as stated above, overfilling is a pain in the butt. The bike takes 3.7 quarts, not 4 quarts of oil when changing it.
Relax and ride, winter is on its way....
Freedom is dangerous. Those in power that steal freedom are more dangerous.
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
I did the above twice and both time the oil window was completely dark.riceburner wrote: Get on bike.
Start engine
Ride for at least 20-30 minutes.
return to home, or suitable FLAT location.
Stop bike.
Stop engine.
Leave bike on side stand for 2-3 minutes.
Remove helmet (if wearing).
After 2 or 3 minutes, put bike on Main stand.
Leave for 2 - 3 minutes.
Return to bike, kneel to bring eyes to same height from ground as oil sight glass
DO NOT TOUCH EXHAUST WITH FACE.
Examine oil sight glass.
I assume this means it's overfilled and I need to drain it.
I may as well do an oil change at that rate, this way I pour in the exact specified amount, then when I do the test the oil level should be halfway, correct?
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
I think you mean the MAIN stand.....sjbmw wrote: When on the kickstand, the oil glass should be at half or less, but never empty..
or Centre-stand.
but NOT the kick/side stand.
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
pretty much.MThomas wrote:I did the above twice and both time the oil window was completely dark.riceburner wrote: Get on bike.
Start engine
Ride for at least 20-30 minutes.
return to home, or suitable FLAT location.
Stop bike.
Stop engine.
Leave bike on side stand for 2-3 minutes.
Remove helmet (if wearing).
After 2 or 3 minutes, put bike on Main stand.
Leave for 2 - 3 minutes.
Return to bike, kneel to bring eyes to same height from ground as oil sight glass
DO NOT TOUCH EXHAUST WITH FACE.
Examine oil sight glass.
I assume this means it's overfilled and I need to drain it.
I may as well do an oil change at that rate, this way I pour in the exact specified amount, then when I do the test the oil level should be halfway, correct?
Remember - if you DO replace the oil filter, it's 3.75 litres.
if you do NOT replace the oil filter, it's 3.5 litres.
oh - but when you put 3.75 litres (or 3.5 if filter not replaced - see above) in the engine it will APPEAR to be over full. Rest assured that IS the correct amount. you can check it by doing the procedure again afterwards.
oh - and one thing...... if you've done the procedure above at the end of (say) last week...... and you haven't used the bike since...... why do you need to check the oil level before riding it today??? where do you think it will have gone?
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
after the last couple rides, each >=20 mins, I turned off the bike, put it on the sidestand for a couple minutes, put it on the main stand for a couple minutes, then checked the oil level.
Each time the window was completely dark/full.
I guess I'll just do an oil change, this way I know I filled it to specs (3.75q)
Each time the window was completely dark/full.
I guess I'll just do an oil change, this way I know I filled it to specs (3.75q)
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
as stated multiple times, your bike will not lose oil that fast without some sort of physical manifestation of symptoms, such the engine running like absolute garbage, or not at all, and leaving a huge trail of smoke behind it. OR, if you are only occasional rider, and the bike sits, there would an ENORMOUS puddle.
Relax a bit. You should be more worried about OVERfilling. And If you are worried, go drain it, and refill it yourself. Problem solved.
I ride mine every single day, and I bet i don't even look at my sight window 99% of the time. Just The Occasional glance to make sure its not missing or cracked, or leaking......that's all. Then before a long ride, Ill do once over with a flashlight, and keep an eye on it. but, I mean does anyone do a full oil check in your car every time you drive it? That would be exhausting, these aren't airplanes.
Oil doesn't just disappear quickly without another problem being present.
in 3000+ miles in 3 months of riding to work every day, and two 500+ mile trips at HIGH speed I burned 1/4 qrt. Also estimated. I only change my oil once a year. i expect this motor will last a long time.
Relax a bit. You should be more worried about OVERfilling. And If you are worried, go drain it, and refill it yourself. Problem solved.
I ride mine every single day, and I bet i don't even look at my sight window 99% of the time. Just The Occasional glance to make sure its not missing or cracked, or leaking......that's all. Then before a long ride, Ill do once over with a flashlight, and keep an eye on it. but, I mean does anyone do a full oil check in your car every time you drive it? That would be exhausting, these aren't airplanes.
in 3000+ miles in 3 months of riding to work every day, and two 500+ mile trips at HIGH speed I burned 1/4 qrt. Also estimated. I only change my oil once a year. i expect this motor will last a long time.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
thanks for that cyclerob, the f 650 gs is also notorious for showing changing oil levels, and perhaps even more critical to NOT overfill the thumper over the twin.CycleRob wrote:MThomas,
After almost 64,000 miles and almost 9 years of riding my 2002 R1150R I learned many things.
Let me give you the data you need to understand your bike's mysterious engine. We are trying to help you here but you seem to be way too influenced by your own conclusions because of what the oil window tells you, like, magically, without any signs of a leak or massive clouds of blue smoke the bike just used a LOT of oil on your last ride. The bottom of the oil window does NOT mean the engine is almost out of oil and needs oil to be added. The truth is that there is just over 3 Quarts of oil in the sump! CenterRedDot of the oil window (3.75 quarts!) does NOT mean the engine needs oil to be added!! There even seems to be a mystery of what a lighter or darker oil window means and how it correlates with side or centerstand, engine cold/warm/hot, engine running or turned off. Not knowing anything about the particulars or obvious quirks of the OilHead motor allows you to not understand the concept of Cold/Cool/Warm/AlmostHot oil REMAINING IN THE OIL COOLERS, VALVE COVERS, Cylinders, all internal moving parts and substantial crankcase inner wall surface areas. Those oil radiators and large internal surface areas RETAIN a LOT of oil, making the oil window a LIAR . . . UNLESS you understand WHEN and ONLY WHEN it is telling you the TRUTH. The only way oil will drain from the oil radiators (air replacing the oil), on the sidestand, is when the right side oil cooler top hose connection metal pipe fitting finger touch test is SO hot that you MUST immediately "let go of it." That indicates the oil thermostat is OPEN, allowing the oil to drain from both radiators into the crankcase sump. You, like many other new-2-BMW riders also insist on adding oil when the centerstand oil level is AT the CenterRedDot of the oil window, which is 3.75 quarts in the engine. They add oil, like you did, in spite of the fact the engine was not hot enough or the bike not timely put on the sidestand then the centerstand. That CenterRedDot oil level is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to worry about -AND- is considered by seasoned/experienced OilHead owners as The Optimal "Full' mark for the oil level to minimize the bike's normal oil consumption. Even if the oil level was at lower-red circle (3 quarts), it would still be safe enough to cruise at very high speeds for hours.
Click on these thumbnails to go to my engine album displaying the oil cooling circuit and the oil thermostat taken apart. That brass oil thermostat is what causes so many OilHead riders to erroneously, routinely overfill the engine with oil.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
If the oil level is above the oil window upper red circle, you need to drain out only a little more than the excess amount of oil. Drain out excess engine oil ONLY after you determine there was a proper burned finger HOT OIL shutdown -and- the before mentioned side then center stand time-outs. To drain out excess oil, do so as soon as the morning weather ensures the engine is COLD. First use an old toothbrush to solvent clean around the oil drain plug and bolt. With a clean drain pan underneath, loosen and remove the drain plug until at least a quart drains out, then quickly try to re-install it. Don't panic, cold oil flows slowly. I say at least a quart drains out so you only have to drain it once. Don't worry about too much draining before you get the threads started . . . that excess will be slowly, incrementally added to get to the oil level to CenterRedDot. If you go higher than that by choice, you will encourage more oil usage and combustion chamber deposits with absolutely no gains in safety or engine longevity.
.
what is your experience with oil use over say a couple of months of mixed riding? i wound up adding almost a quart to my "newtome" 2002 with 36K
2002F650GS ABS Black Betty 89K
2002R1150R ABS Misty Blue 48K
2002R1150R ABS Misty Blue 48K
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AZBMWRIDER
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Re: Oil full and not burning or cloudy oil check window?
I think BMW may have gone to the sight glass instead of a dipstick .
Being a long time airhead rider, the airheads were not too friendly to add oil, unless you had a funnel or something similar to get the oil into the dipstick hole .
If you didn't have one, you made a mess servicing the oil .
I thought this was an improvement, but if you check the sight glass and no oil is showing, you really have no idea what level oil you do have .
You don't have to drain all the oil out, just unscrew the drain plug and release a bit of oil at a time and keep checking the sight glass until you get the oil to the correct level .
Do this when the oil is cold !!!!!!!!
Being a long time airhead rider, the airheads were not too friendly to add oil, unless you had a funnel or something similar to get the oil into the dipstick hole .
If you didn't have one, you made a mess servicing the oil .
I thought this was an improvement, but if you check the sight glass and no oil is showing, you really have no idea what level oil you do have .
You don't have to drain all the oil out, just unscrew the drain plug and release a bit of oil at a time and keep checking the sight glass until you get the oil to the correct level .
Do this when the oil is cold !!!!!!!!
'02 R1150R, Atlanta Blue
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .





