BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Maybe I am not understanding MTbeemers post but it looks like to me the k/n filter is doing a much better job if you are riding in the same conditions, unless you mean the oil on the filter is catching more stuff and clogging up too fast.
I have run K/n on a lot of vehicles not aware of any down side but this thread is making me wonder.
I will say my wife drives a Honda CRV with 297k + and still does not use oil it has a k/n air filter. I have only run air filters .
Nice to get all this input on old but vital subjects..... off to work hope every bodies day goes well.
Mike

This was the first and only KN filter I've ever dealt with so I'm no expert. I think the filter may have been over oiled, but the real problem is that the KN filter has far less surface area and therefore less area to collect dirt.

Thank you Don for the detailed great explanation.
Now it is clear and simple.

Steve H from Ontario

Anyone know the comparable Mobil One filter? the 102? Cost is not a particular issue, but convenience of purchase can be.

Dr. Strangelove wrote:Anyone know the comparable Mobil One filter? the 102? Cost is not a particular issue, but convenience of purchase can be.

Be somewhat difficult to install as an air filter on an R1200R.. the round can won't go into the rectangular hole very well.

As far as an oil filter - it looks like it's longer than the hexhead filters are, which might seem a good thing until the filter is punctured whilst negotiating an S turn. BTDT with the stock short filter - don't wanna do it again (now have a GS bash-pan under the engine..) The longer filter is likely even more prone to this type of damage.

I think there's a short one, maybe the 101?
I have a Mann MW75 and may bring it to advance auto to check sizes. It's more a matter of convenience for me, and they work well.

Stock air filters for me, or the Mann version of same. I want to toss them. My roadster came with a K&N and it was unbelievably clogged when I took it off. Looked like tar.

Dr. Strangelove wrote:I think there's a short one, maybe the 101?
I have a Mann MW75 and may bring it to advance auto to check sizes. It's more a matter of convenience for me, and they work well.

Stock air filters for me, or the Mann version of same. I want to toss them. My roadster came with a K&N and it was unbelievably clogged when I took it off. Looked like tar.

I guess my question is how do you know it works well? Does it have a bypass valve? If so, then at what pressure does the bypass valve come into play? What size particulate does it filter?

Not trying to be contrary, but there is much more to the engineering of an oil filter than most would think. I do not have the education or experience to answer these sort of questions so I stick with the OEM. They are easy to get online if a dealer is not handy. My dealer is 125 miles away so I generally buy a year's worth at a time.

I needed some small stuff for my /5 so I also ordered two oil filters for the R1200R from Max to put on the shelf. My stuff will be here Thursday with some M&Ms. No worries about the filter being too long or operating specs for the bypass or how many microns it will filter or etc, etc. If it costs two or three dollars more I'll absorb it.

I'll skip my thoughts on air filters and save them for the next (and expected) air filter thread. Still some good riding days left in the Northeast.

I'm running the pflow stainless steel reuse filter. Pretty bullet proof, reusable filter element, 17mm socket head, cooling fins, magnetic catch. Pretty good for $90

wayneosdias wrote:I'm running the pflow stainless steel reuse filter. Pretty bullet proof, reusable filter element, 17mm socket head, cooling fins, magnetic catch. Pretty good for $90

Been many discussions about stainless steel filters on the motorcycle forums. Pictures like this one that has become blocked and then collapsed are easy to find:



Found this on the California Scientific WebSite http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html. It is part of a longer discussion on oil filters that is worth reading. You need to judge the reliability of the site.

"There's a new type of filter being marketed, the "laser cut stainless steel filter," which we're told is "good for the life of your vehicle.""

These filters typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. They typically have 30-40 square inches of filter material, which is really not acceptable. A paper based element is a 3 dimensional filter - when a particle gets stuck deep in the filter element, oil can still flow around it. The stainless steel elements are 2 dimensional - when a particle gets caught, one of the holes is clogged up.

I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside.

These stainless steel filters cost about $120, about 25 times what I pay for a Pure One. Since I use my filters for about 8,000 miles, that means I have to go 200,000 miles to break even. I've never put more than 60,000 miles on a vehicle.

I don't think this technology is ready to use yet. When the holes get down to 20 microns, and the surface area up to about 100-150 square inches, then I think I'll consider using one. Meanwhile, "good for the life of your vehicle" is not an impressive claim if the device shortens the life of your vehicle."

MTBeemer wrote:This is a K&N air filter I took out of a friends R1200RT when I serviced it for him. It had been in service less than 6000 miles in normal conditions. I live in the same area and change my OEM filter every 12,000 miles although it still looks fairly clean. If you still want a K&N, then I think i can get the one pictured at a reduced price.... some cleaning required.

I guess I don't get it. The K&N looks like it is picking up allot of bad stuff. Don't get me wrong , I don't condone the use of K&N Filters nor do I discredit them.
I thought we were talking about OIL Filters.

celticus wrote: I guess I don't get it. The K&N looks like it is picking up allot of bad stuff. Don't get me wrong , I don't condone the use of K&N Filters nor do I discredit them.
I thought we were talking about OIL Filters.

Me too celticus, if the KN stopped all that crud in 6K and the stock filter came out clean in 12k, THEN WHERE DID ALL THE CRUD GO

but this is an oil filter thread.

celticus wrote:I guess I don't get it. The K&N looks like it is picking up allot of bad stuff. Don't get me wrong , I don't condone the use of K&N Filters nor do I discredit them.
I thought we were talking about OIL Filters.

Looking at that filter - it was either not 6,000 miles (more like a factor of 10x) or the conditions were unreal... That's a bunch of crud on the filter.

I am very confident that the filter had 6000 miles on it. It was installed at the 36000 mile service by an independent mechanic; I pulled it off at 42000 (+/- a couple hundred miles at either end). Bike is an RT used on MT pavement almost exclusively. As I said, I think it was over oiled which may have caused the clogging.

Using stock filters-perood.
I am in great love with my bike.

Steve from Ontario

mogu83 wrote:

celticus wrote: I guess I don't get it. The K&N looks like it is picking up allot of bad stuff. Don't get me wrong , I don't condone the use of K&N Filters nor do I discredit them.
I thought we were talking about OIL Filters.

Me too celticus, if the KN stopped all that crud in 6K and the stock filter came out clean in 12k, THEN WHERE DID ALL THE CRUD GO

but this is an oil filter thread.

Paper air filters are made to vibrate the dust off them. It falls inside the airbox on the clean side.

Yeah, I know oil filter thread.
If it matters, I use a NAPA 1348 oil filter on my new R12R and cheap assed ones I use on cars in my shop on the rest of my bikes. I cut one apart and it looks just like a BMW filter on the inside. Same relief pressure, and thread size.

Don't bother telling my I am ruining my bike. We all have opinions. I use cheap ass Wolfs Head 10W40 too. I do change it every 3,000 miles.

For the stainless reusable filter why? Throw the old filter and all the crud out. Start fresh. 20 microns.

David

I looked on the NAPA filter web page and I see the NAPA 1348 oil filter has a 3/4-16 internal thread. Are you sure that this fits the R1200R? I find it hard to believe BMW put a 3/4-16 thread for the oil filter stud.

Just my 2 cents

Roger L

Recieved my filters from Max yesterday. The NAPA filters may be a little cheaper but I'll bet you don't get M&Ms with them. (Adult daughter got the M&Ms)

Are m&ms that important?
What about nylons and a Hershey bar?

Dr. Strangelove wrote: What about nylons and a Hershey bar?

WOW How old are you????
Don't tell me you rode a Harley WLA-45 across the sands of Normandy or was it a BMW R75 sidecar rig through Poland toward Moscow. (You young guys can look those bikes up)