Oil leak

Xray28 · Post by **Xray28** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:52 pm

Today when I stopped at my favorite hardware store I noticed the lower arm that goes to the rear end (a torque stabilizer kinda' thingie I think.) and the pivot where it attaches to the rear end were dirty. So I checked it out and it seems that there is oil leaking from the bellows between the drive shaft housing and the rear end. It smells like gear lube. I checked the rear end and it is completely full. When I got home I checked out the parking place and there are three little single drip marks on the concrete. So it's been dripping a tiny bit after the last three trips I've taken. As near as I can figure the drive shaft housing shouldn't have any oil in it so it is most likely that the source of the oil is the rear end. Any thoughts? My bike has just over 15K on her.

ebincia · Post by **ebincia** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:34 pm

Xray28 wrote:Today when I stopped at my favorite hardware store I noticed the lower arm that goes to the rear end (a torque stabilizer kinda' thingie I think.) and the pivot where it attaches to the rear end were dirty. So I checked it out and it seems that there is oil leaking from the bellows between the drive shaft housing and the rear end. It smells like gear lube. I checked the rear end and it is completely full. When I got home I checked out the parking place and there are three little single drip marks on the concrete. So it's been dripping a tiny bit after the last three trips I've taken. As near as I can figure the drive shaft housing shouldn't have any oil in it so it is most likely that the source of the oil is the rear end. Any thoughts? My bike has just over 15K on her.

A small amount of gear oil will blow past the seal if the rear end is slightly overfilled. It then collects in the bellows and seeps past the retainer strap to cause the dirt build up often seen on BMW drives.

If this is what is going on it is not a problem.
I would peel back the bellows; clean up the mess and then check to make sure the drive is not overfilled (bottom of hole). Check the transmission fluid level. Run it and check to see if the problem reoccurs.

Sunbeemer · Post by **Sunbeemer** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:34 pm

There have been several reports of leaking final drive seals posted here in the past, I'd try doing a search of the archives to get an idea of what's been encountered back there... That the final drive is still full is both good and not surprising, since a small amount of that stinkin' gear oil goes a long way (ie. a little bit makes a big stain). Don't fail to consider that it may also be the tranny ouput shaft seal...you might want to check that level too.

Post by **TicTac50** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:08 pm

I have similar problem. In the last days of December, after riding my bike all day long, I found some oil on the rim and the rear tire. The difficulty was to determine where it was coming from. I checked the rear axle and the gearbox. Both had proper amount of lube. I refilled the rear axle housing with the RED color gear oil. After 2500-3000 miles, I noticed some oil on the rim and the both, but could not determine the color, until I opened the booth. Sure enough, it was RED, coming from the rear axle housing. I was ready to get the seal from the dealer and do the job my self, but remembered that my riding friend had the same problem. Even if you take the rear axle of the bike, there is some kind of a special tool needed to remove that seal. After speaking with the dealer, I was told that it will take two hours to replace that seal, at $70.00 per hour rate. I think that it is a fair estimate and I got an appointment to do the job. I also did call my other dealer and asked for the estimate. Two days later, I got a call back from my other dealer, telling me that it will take 6 hours at $80.00 per hour, to do the job, but since I know for sure that the leak is coming from the rear axle housing, they will charge me only 5 hours labor. I was ready to ask for the estimate on the replacement of the clutch, but did not feel like to hear the word Ã¢â‚¬Å“30 hours".

I do not like anybody touching my bike and I like to do the work my self. But, in this case I donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t have the tool to pull that seal out. Hope it will be only two hours of labor.

Good luck.

Post by **Beemeridian** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:25 am

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:47 am

Hey Xray28...did it look a bit like this?...I took this pic on my way home from a two day ride a couple of months ago...I thought..oh no..I have a leak.

I got home..the next day I just gave it a good clean...and now..a few months later it's still spotless..it was just a little oil weap...no biggie..

DJ

ebincia · Post by **ebincia** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 4:00 pm

DJ Downunder wrote:...did it look a bit like this?...

DJ

DJ,

Great pic. I have seen this happen with many beemers over the years. At first I thought it was because the vent at the top of the drive was clogged, but that is not what causes it. Some time ago I found that a , weather change (extreme heat), a hard slog, and a slightly overfilled drive, or any combination of these variables seems to cause the rear drive weep past the seal.

About six years ago I started filling the BMW drives with the recommended amount and it has not happened since.

I do not top the drive oil off to the bottom of the filler hole , as is often suggested.

This has worked for me .

Mr Episkopos · Post by **Mr Episkopos** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:03 pm

I think i have the same problem too.

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:45 pm

Mr Episkopos...

...Don't ride so close behind those Harley's next time..

.

They say our bikes sound like a runny wet fart..now if your exhaust was on the other side I'd be thinking that's what happened..

.

Maybe you have the slightly overfull problem also.

DJ

Xray28 · Post by **Xray28** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 6:12 pm

Well, i think I've mentioned that my garage is very very humid at times during the winter and water actually condenses out on metal objects left standing in there like a frosty cold one on a warm summer day. So to combat this I put a 40 watt light bulb under my bike to keep the temp a few degrees above the surrounding area. It is my idea that the final drive heated and cooled like the inside of my garage while the tranny etc. stayed warm. The temp differential and cycling of the temp in the rear end acted like a very subtle pump and cuased the weep. That's my guess anyway. Thanx for all the replies. They give me little confidence that I haven't yet damaged my precious Matilda beyond repair.

Post by **baltm604** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 6:56 pm

my rear seal was replaced under warranty at around 18k.

this is a common problem.

you cannot overfil the rear end unless you really, really try!

it is full at the bottom of the fill opening.

Bill

Mr Episkopos · Post by **Mr Episkopos** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:30 am

DJ Downunder wrote:Mr Episkopos... ...Don't ride so close behind those Harley's next time.. .

They say our bikes sound like a runny wet fart..now if your exhaust was on the other side I'd be thinking that's what happened.. .

Maybe you have the slightly overfull problem also.

DJ

IC

Thanx DJ Downunder

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:38 am

Mine had a lesser leak compared to DJ's. It was fixed under warranty and hasn't leaked since:

chris · Post by **chris** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:09 pm

Does seem to be common, mine started last September, leaked a while, then dried up. Yesterday it was quite bad and today only a little! I think my sticky front brake might have put some strain on the drive shaft and caused it to leak but I'll just keep an eye on it again now I've fixed the brake!
Concensus seemed to be when I checked last that a little is not a worry but drips need sorting. If mine starts dripping I'm off to the dealers, but there'll be no warranty fix for my 03 beauty!

Post by **CycleRob** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:07 am

5 hours to change the rear pinion shaft seal is robbery. I don't know how they can get away with that. Yes, a special tool, a pin wrench, BMW# 33 1 700 is req'd to remove the seal/bearing threaded retainer. Even 2 hours seems excessive to remove the wheel and final drive, remove the seal, clean the shaft, install the new seal, clean&grease the pivot bearings, reinstall the final drive and wheel.

Call a few more dealers, compare fees and ask each one exactly what they are doing besides replacing the pinion shaft seal.

5 hours? Maybe they spend 4 hours cleaning away the stinky oil mess.

Post by **TicTac50** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:00 am

CycleRob. Thanks.
You always find the way to make guys like me feel better.
I think I got away easy this time.
I paid 2 hours labor + 1 pivot bearing + 1 seal + $15.00 oil.
My total came up to just a little bit over $220.00
My neighbor had his 1200CL in the shop at the same time.
Throttle body switch replacement.
Part was $139.00 + 8 (EIGHT) hours labor.
His total was over $770.00
Last summer I got stuck in another state on the way to Vermont Rally. I paid $600.00 just for labor to replace the Hall sensor on my bike.
That is why every time somebody writes: "SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL DEALER", it brings tears to my eyes.

Post by **Beemeridian** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:39 am

Post by **TicTac50** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 11:16 am

Beemeridian wrote:
+ $15.00 oil.
For 250cc of gear oil?
W T F

I did not feel like arguing about $15.00 for the 250cc oil, since I did not buy a hat or a key chain or a T-shirt to support the dealer. Similarly, I don't argue about $12.00 for a $4.79 spark plug. Also they charged me only 2 hours labor Vs another dealer's estimated 5 hours labor for the same job. I expressed my opinion many times, and clearly stated, that BMW motorcycle dealers do not belong to a special business group, requiring customer sympathy.
I do appreciate a good job fairly priced.

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