Alright, I wanted some driving lights and (not knowing any better) bought the PIAA 1100x lamps with the plastic mounting base.
The powersports version, however, has a metal base.
I spoke with a very nice woman named Liz at PIAA, and she confirmed that both lamps are exactly the same - the only difference is the bracket. She said she would keep her eyes open for some extra ones...but I am heading out for a trip soon and would love to have some more rugged metal brackets.
I tried making some tonight from a piece of steel - no go. Anyone here a machinist that might be able to make a set of these? Perhaps someone has an extra pair of something similar lying around? Any help would be super!
Most of your bigger hardware & home "improvement" ctrs. sell aluminum in various shapes square , L , U & flat stock .a little bench time w/a saw n a file ya should be able to make up somthing serviceable ,remember the first ones are called proto-types the second ones "usualy" are much improved
What is the dimension between the inside of the bolt mounting tabs on the light housing? You might be able to use steel, square tube stock or channel (tube stock is easier to find at the blue or orange hardware stores) cut to shape on a metal band saw or chop saw and drilled for the mounting bolt holes. If you wanted to get fancy, you could have them powder coated, or just hit 'em with a couple coats of enamel.
That dimension is one inch. I started out with flat steel stock (started to buy aluminum, but one of the folks in an orange apron said it might crack on me in the tight bend. So, I get home and pull out some clamps, hammers, and the dremel. After about two hours I have something (2 of them, in fact) that are terrible. The guys of Orange County Choppers make working with metal look so easy...I suppose I underestimated the task. Maybe aluminum will be easier to work with...and that tube stock idea is a good one too.
If you are going to try to bend aluminum your self you must use 5052 or equivilent . 6061 will stress fracture at such a sharp bend .You may want to try a piece of mild steel abot .060 in . thick
Actually, I would consider using the plastic brackets. A lot of the modern polymers are strong enough for the job of supporting the light. In the event of a "mishap" the plastic might fail, but better a driving light getting knocked off than getting something more vital bent or broken. There is a Murphy's law to the effect that. "Unbreakable toys can always be used to smash other toys."
The thing that I didn't like about the plastic bracket is that it was comprised of two parts, split across the bottom. Because the mounting base was too broad for the spot on the Wunderlich bars, the pressure exerted by the bolt holding the light bracket to the bars caused the gap between the two pieces to separate more than I liked. I worked up a solution last night that seems to be working great.
I took a piece of galvanized metal strapping (used in framing homes, etc.) that was about 3/4" wide ($0.67). It was thin enough to bend at a sharp angle and be cut with metal shears. I was able to whip up two great brackets in no time. Then, I mounted them to the engine bars and insulated the bracket on top and bottom with rubber neoprene washers. This should help isolate some of the vibrations and keep the bulbs alive a little longer! Time will tell how my sub-$5 solution will work. I may even paint the brackets to top it all off.
I second the home improvment suggestion. I've seen aluminum and steel square (and "U" shaped) tube at Lowes that would work well here. You'd just have to cut the lengths you'd need.
