R1100R oil from Hell!

pdoege · Post by **pdoege** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:02 am

Right,

When I purchased my nifty used R1100R the owner said, "It needs an oil change, the last one was a while ago". The receipts should that it was about 6k miles ago, and the oil looked pretty bad.

I ordered a oil wrench and put about 400 miles on the bike while waiting for it to come in.

The wrench came in Friday, and I changed the oil on Saturday.

That was the nastiest oil that I have ever seen come out of a "living" engine. Burnt, with layers of dark brown in the black. Smelly, nasty stuff.

The real shock was the amount of sludge and metal in the bottom of the drip pan. Yikes! I remember, back in my misspent youth, mistreating a VW Bug engine to similar effect. I buttoned the VW engine back up and it lasted 150k miles after that disaster.

I plan to just ride the bike and monitor the oil. Maybe do a leakdown/compression test. Not sure that I want to know the compression right now or not!

Peter Doege

darthrider · Post by **darthrider** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:08 am

I'd change the oil & filter in about 100 miles and just start over with reasonable change intervals.
I'm a 2000 - 4000 mile change guy, depending on what I've been doing with the bike.

Post by **geechie** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:13 am

Yeah. Dave gives good advice.

If the bike feels good under you; if it makes decent power, and has good throttle response, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. These engines are about as close to bombproof (and even idiot proof) as any.

Ride on.

George

Post by **Paper** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:07 pm

Edited, and moved on...

Promethean · Post by **Promethean** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:12 pm

I wonder if a dash of SeaFoam to the engine oil just before the oil change helps.

I added a bit to my old KZ440 when I first bought it, ran it around the block for 10 minutes and then did the oil change. I couldn't believe the muck that came out when I drained out the old oil. A couple of oil changes later with the same treatment, the oil hardly seemed to get dirty after 2k miles.

Might be my imagination but it worked for me.

Others more knowledgeable than I on the board may care to comment if this has any merit.

Post by **Beemeridian** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:42 pm

pdoege · Post by **pdoege** » Tue Nov 22, 2005 7:55 am

I have a cunning plan to put about 200 miles on her and then change the oil.

I need to do the plugs, airfilter, etc. seeing how bad the oil was. I'll bite the bullet and do the full series next week.

In all honesty, I bought the bike to get my feet wet again after a few years off. Being down on power is not a big deal for me right now.

Thanks for the advice.

Regards,
Peter

pdoege · Post by **pdoege** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:18 pm

I changed the oil and air filter tonight. The oil looked like really expenive Amsoil with 250 miles on it. Sigh. Still, better safe than sorry.

I performed a TB sync as well. The previous owner had really cranked up the idle. It was 3.25 turns out on both TBs. 1600 rpm. I have it back to the specified 2 turns and 1100 rpm. It seems to idle happier and have fewer vibrations around 3500 rpm. I'll thrash it around tomorrow and see what it feels like then.

I plan to do the plugs and valve adjustment Saturday, and check/change the transmission/final drive fluids next week.

Thanks for the advice,
Peter Doege

Capt. Blackadder · Post by **Capt. Blackadder** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:28 pm

pdoege wrote:"I have a cunning plan..."

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R1100R oil from Hell!

R1100R oil from Hell!

Good advice

Update

Re: Good advice