What I think I know

[74rider]

Hello all!! I'm now a proud owner of a 2002 R1150R and wow!! What a bike! I'm coming off owning several cruisers from 650cc to 1500cc but I've always heard that I had to try a sport tourer. Well I have and here I am and great site!! I'm trying to learn all I can about these bikes, so here's what I think I know. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

1) Shifting is a little clunkier than other bikes but solid.
2) Use dino 20w-50 for engine, 75-90 for tranny and FD?
3) Front brakes make a noise when engaged but this is mostly due to the type of break pad.
4) To start, you have to physically hold the choke all the way up, then let go, then push down.
5) Maintenance is pretty straightforward and fairly easy.
6) These bikes are very comfy for commuting and for the long haul.

Anything I missed?

[riceburner]

Check the wiring around the headstock - if there's any cable ties trapping the wires cut them off (the cable ties, obvs).

The 'choke' is actually a "fast idle" - helps to think of it that way. It mimics turning the throttle slightly.

[skylarmav1]

Welcome!

To your points, what I've found over the last 2 1/2 years of ownership.

Great group here. Whenever I needed help someone stepped up.

1) Shifting is a little clunkier than other bikes but solid.
Once I stopped trying to fight it, it is like butter. At least on mine-I barely use the clutch, do a bit of "preleoad" on the shifter and perfectly slips into gear one after another- most of the time. Had my share of miss shifts from 1st to 2nd though.

2) Use dino 20w-50 for engine, 75-90 for transmission and FD?
I went to Lucas 80-90 non synth gear oil for FD and transmission and it made a huge difference in shift smoothness- See #1 above.

3) Front brakes make a noise when engaged but this is mostly due to the type of break pad.
I have very little noise so maybe someone else can help-I'm using standard pads, rotors and calipers

4) To start, you have to physically hold the choke all the way up, then let go, then push down.
Just pull it up and it will hold there. It takes just 30 sec or so to warm up and make sure you drive when warming up-since it is air cooled, don't let it sit to warm up. Then push it down when warmed up.

5) Maintenance is pretty straightforward and fairly easy. Yup. If not already done so, replace the cheapie OEM fuel disconnects with stainless steel Quick Disconnects on your fuel lines-I read it here first about them failing and thought hmmm not a worry-until mine went out a 17k.

6) These bikes are very comfy for commuting and for the long haul. Yup might want to think about replacement seat for long haul, depending on your build. That is my next upgrade.

Overall I love it!

[peels]

what they said! ^

my experiences over the last 3 years of owning a 2002.

-keep your valves adjusted and throttle body synced. clean injectors. not too hard.

-brake and clutch fluid clean...if it has ABS. even more so, or ditch the abs.

-don't over investigate a problem and stress out.

-don't thumb your nose at the low fuel light. fun lesson.

this bike is PERFECT for middle to long distance. I would say the perfect all around bike. I can carve corners just as easy as I can load up be gone for a few days, it is adept at both. I even ride it off road lol I rode over 1000 miles in 2 days, and felt like I could totally keep going. after a nap of course.

there are some mechanical things that might make you scratch your head, but I havent been let down yet.

[towerworker]

Don't forget the annual antifreeze service. Your local BMW dealer will have the correct stuff. Be sure to tell them the year and model of your bike as the antifreeze specifications changed on a couple year models.

[skylarmav1]

Holy cow Tower, how could any of us forget that. Thx. Much.

[74rider]

Welcome!

To your points, what I've found over the last 2 1/2 years of ownership.

Great group here. Whenever I needed help someone stepped up.

1) Shifting is a little clunkier than other bikes but solid.
Once I stopped trying to fight it, it is like butter. At least on mine-I barely use the clutch, do a bit of "preleoad" on the shifter and perfectly slips into gear one after another- most of the time. Had my share of miss shifts from 1st to 2nd though.

2) Use dino 20w-50 for engine, 75-90 for transmission and FD?
I went to Lucas 80-90 non synth gear oil for FD and transmission and it made a huge difference in shift smoothness- See #1 above.

3) Front brakes make a noise when engaged but this is mostly due to the type of break pad.
I have very little noise so maybe someone else can help-I'm using standard pads, rotors and calipers

4) To start, you have to physically hold the choke all the way up, then let go, then push down.
Just pull it up and it will hold there. It takes just 30 sec or so to warm up and make sure you drive when warming up-since it is air cooled, don't let it sit to warm up. Then push it down when warmed up.

5) Maintenance is pretty straightforward and fairly easy. Yup. If not already done so, replace the cheapie OEM fuel disconnects with stainless steel Quick Disconnects on your fuel lines-I read it here first about them failing and thought hmmm not a worry-until mine went out a 17k.

6) These bikes are very comfy for commuting and for the long haul. Yup might want to think about replacement seat for long haul, depending on your build. That is my next upgrade.

Overall I love it!

Hey thanks for the info. The previous owner did include a Sargent seat, which I will be trying tomorrow. Not sure if the fuel disconnects thing has been done, how would I know? Shifting is now much better. I think I just needed some practice...ah yet another reason to ride. Keep the info coming, much appreciated.

[74rider]

Don't forget the annual antifreeze service. Your local BMW dealer will have the correct stuff. Be sure to tell them the year and model of your bike as the antifreeze specifications changed on a couple year models.

Hehehehehe...uh yeah.

[74rider]

Check the wiring around the headstock - if there's any cable ties trapping the wires cut them off (the cable ties, obvs).

The 'choke' is actually a "fast idle" - helps to think of it that way. It mimics turning the throttle slightly.

Will do .. Thanks.

[Biff's R]

The OEm quick disconnects are black plastic. The replacement/upgraded part is metal, and can be purchased from Beemerboneyard.com

I'm on my second R and have been riding them since 2003. Sometimes I get new bike fever, but nothing has made me want to take on a payment because it is that much better than what I already have.

[lcarlson]

You're lucky to have the Sargent saddle -- it is a vast improvement over the stack saddle. I've had mine for 13 years and it's still like new.

[lcarlson]

My fast idle lever has gotten a little sticky with age, so now I don't use it -- just gently roll on the throttle as I crank it. Works perfectly.

[sweatmark]

Hello all!! I'm now a proud owner of a 2002 R1150R ... so here's what I think I know...

1) Shifting is a little clunkier than other bikes but solid.
2) Use dino 20w-50 for engine, 75-90 for tranny and FD?
3) Front brakes make a noise when engaged but this is mostly due to the type of break pad.
4) To start, you have to physically hold the choke all the way up, then let go, then push down.
5) Maintenance is pretty straightforward and fairly easy.
6) These bikes are very comfy for commuting and for the long haul.

Anything I missed?

Congratulations!

1. Yes the dry clutch drivetrain is clunkier by nature, but the transmission is smooth-shifting when you preload the shift lever. The technique becomes second nature after a short while. The R1150** transmissions have a flawless reputation. The clutch splines, well, um, (sigh)

2. Final drive lubricant is a GL-5 type. Like most R1150 topics, you can search here in R1150R, or at SportTouring, or at ADV Rider in the oilheads section, or at BMW MOA web site and get LOTS of good (and sometimes bogus) information about these bikes:
[url]vhttp://www.r1150r.net/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16390[/url]
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... ber=773244
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/f ... id.757235/

3. Monitor that brake noise. Aside from the iABS servo noise (if your bike is ABS), the R1150** Evo brakes are quiet, strong, reliable. Your 2002 might have its original rubbery brake lines, and upgrade to stainless steel shrouded lines would be a worthwhile investment.

4. Others have covered the throttle advance "choke" already. Note - be careful if you ever attempt to disassemble the throttle advance hand control, because there are small parts inside that magically disappear when exposed to sunlight.

5. The oilheads are DIY maintenance candy. Or filet. Or Belgian trappist monk beer, depending on your taste. Buy a good service manual, maybe also the bootleg OEM Service CD-rom, and possibly one of the How-To DVDs (http://www.jvbproductions.com)... I've got them all and read/watch during free time during business travels, but then "my name is Mark, and I'm an oilhead addict".

6. Comfort is relative. Handlebar risers? Bar-backs? Foot peg lowering kit? Windshield or beautiful pure non-turbulent undisturbed air? (Guess which option I prefer.) OE seat or Sargent or other aftermarket or beads or sheepskin or Airhawk or http://www.viberider.com?

7. Remove the gas tank. Install the stainless steel male quick-connects as upgrade, or be careful with the OR plastic QCs. Apply some petroleum jelly on the O-rings before reconnecting.

8. Disconnect and remove battery, check for evidence of earlier acid spill and corrosion. Look for any main wire harness rubbing on LHS of bike, under the tank, and at lower LHS of battery tray. Reinstall battery, apply dielectric grease to battery terminals, ensure battery connection hardware is tight when reconnected. And install (1) battery tender pigtail and (2) heated vest pigtail while the tank is off. You don't have to use these, but one day they might be handy.

9. Replace the hydraulic clutch fluid and flush/bleed. Pay attention to the color of old fluid in master cylinder and as collected when changed.

10. Ride hard.

[riceburner]

10. Ride hard.

The most important bit. (seriously - they like being ridden hard).

Re the fuel line disconnect issue - I'm pretty sure this is an ethanol issue. my bike is now 12 years old and has 110,000+ miles on it, and I've removed the tank umpteen times. Either I'm very careful (I'm not), or my disconnects are fine... But I'm not in the US.

[74rider]

My fast idle lever has gotten a little sticky with age, so now I don't use it -- just gently roll on the throttle as I crank it. Works perfectly.

Thanks, good to know.

[74rider]

Thanks for all the info. I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes on. Love this bike!!!

[carl1957]

Has anyone mentioned the left cam chain tensioner? Dealers can get the upgrade, or you can get one from Rubber Chicken Racing... http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/chain.html

The original will cause some grief down the road. The upgrade is easy to install, hell I did it!

[74rider]

You're lucky to have the Sargent saddle -- it is a vast improvement over the stack saddle. I've had mine for 13 years and it's still like new.

I like the comfort of the Sargent saddle but it sits me further back and higher. Do these adjust?

[Roger 04 rt]

Welcome to the site, you'll like your bike more as time passes. Six other things should be on your to-do or to-know list.

1. The in-tank fuel hoses fail on some (some would say many) R1150s. When they do, your bike stops dead. Mine did in the left-hand lane of a busy highway. You can monitor their health my measuring the quantity of fuel returning to the tank at idle. Save one of your plastic female QDs to make up a test hose. Here are the instructions: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... Post838585.

2. Look for bubbles in the brake lines if yours are original. Check fluid for contamination when you do the every other year bleeding. The hoses fail without warning.

3. The starters magnets and internal gear covers come loose, jam the starter and lead you to thinking the battery is dead. Remember this one. Eventually, after three of these incidents I replaced mine.

4. If you ever have to remove the starter, you can look inside the opening in the transmission housing to check for clutch hub to input-spline-shaft wear. 1/16" to 1/8" play at the clutch disk perimeter is okay. More indicates a walk-home event is in your future. To test this, have some hold the clutch in and wiggle the perimeter of the clutch disk to see how much it moves before the input shaft moves.

5. The clutch remote slave cylinder on the back of the transmission often leaks. Now is a good time to check yours by removing it and inspecting. Mine hadn't developed a serious leak but was about to, there was a thick layer of jellied fluid inside--caught it in time.

6. If you still have a charcoal canister, make sure the correct hose of the two "vent" hoses coming from the fuel tank are connected to it. One of the line is actually a filler neck drain line. If that is connected to the canister, you won't know until enough fuel and water (if you ride in rain) is dumped into the canister, causing it to fail. Also make sure the canister is "breathing" and not clogged.

[peels]

um THAT^^^ covers every single oilhead 'squawk' almost.

well written, ROger04.