Weird problem I have been having lately. Turn the bike on and ride it to the front side walk and the brake lights stay on when it's cold out. It doesn't do it when it's warm out. I have the GS hand guards and have made sure the lever has plenty of room to extend all the way out. I have a Kisan signal Minder that seems to be operating properly and I also have those little Trailblazers lights that flank the sides of the license plate that lite up when the brakes are applied. I have no idea if those could be causing the problem or not. They were on the bike when I bought it.
I have cleaned out the front brake lever with electrical cleaner and it seems like it is working properly.
I did have a problem with the back brake light not working when the pedal was applied, but the problem with the lights staying on was happening before that. I've since fixed the back brake problem.
I'm really an idiot when it comes to electrical issues, but if anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.
And yes I did check all the zip ties under the tank. I removed those a long time ago.
Thanks.....
Brake light stays on only when cold outside
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Brake light stays on only when cold outside
Buckster '03R
#543
#543
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AZBMWRIDER
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Re: Brake light stays on only when cold outside
I have no experience with either the front or back brake light switches, but is it possible to remove wires from them, or disconnect an electrical connector to remove them from their circuit ???
'02 R1150R, Atlanta Blue
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
- riceburner
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Re: Brake light stays on only when cold outside
Even if you've removed the cable ties the fact that they were there even for a short time means the wires are damaged.
I bought my bike with 1200 miles on the clock in '06. Removed the cable-ties straight away. The headstock wires gave me trouble last year ('14) after something like 95,000 miles of riding.
Also - the front brake lever switch is a micro-switch activated by a little metal rocker arm which in turn is activated by the brake lever. You really need to strip the covers away to see how it works as it's hard to envisage in your head. The small metal rocker arm becomes 'tired' in time and needs to be straightened - but it's very easy to misunderstand the pivot points and linkages and 'straighten' it the wrong way!
I bought my bike with 1200 miles on the clock in '06. Removed the cable-ties straight away. The headstock wires gave me trouble last year ('14) after something like 95,000 miles of riding.
Also - the front brake lever switch is a micro-switch activated by a little metal rocker arm which in turn is activated by the brake lever. You really need to strip the covers away to see how it works as it's hard to envisage in your head. The small metal rocker arm becomes 'tired' in time and needs to be straightened - but it's very easy to misunderstand the pivot points and linkages and 'straighten' it the wrong way!