reference For future researchers who might end up here.
when they go bad, they leak and/or you lose clutch lever. Mine was quite obviously bad-went all of a sudden-no warning. I think sitting unused is just as bad for these things...plus, i'm a heavy clutch user.....
Luckily It is really really not hard to get out of the 1150r. i only removed the rear shock preload adjuster to get more room. smaller hands help but i was able to get it out. remove the 3 bolts that hold it in, wiggle it out a bit, so you can see the top, and remove the banjo bolts.
120 shipped from beemerboneyard(really fast I might say)
look at the bearing lol
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v-HB ... G_1155.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ebgZ ... G_1157.JPG
new clutch slave cylinder
Moderator: Moderators
new clutch slave cylinder
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
yikes! that bearing is on an angle...here's to hoping I don't have to go through that.
Good work changing it out.
-cFogs
Good work changing it out.
-cFogs
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
yeah there wasnt much debate on why I had no clutch lever....cgguy09 wrote:yikes! that bearing is on an angle...here's to hoping I don't have to go through that.
Good work changing it out.
-cFogs
its shot. theres nothing left of the bearings themselves... just floppin around in there.
Also, should mention: if your wife asks "whats that on the counter?" tell her its something more elaborate. or you get.... "seriously....$120 for that tiny little piece?!"
me: "what can I say...its German."
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
OK, got it put together saturday... all I can say is... "germans ugh"
LOL.
for someone stopping by for research, looking to tackle this...its not "HARD" to do. but it IS quite frustrating. so be patient (I am not) DOing it without taking the tail apart, like I said before, is doable. But smaller hands, and good dexterity will help here. Contorting your hands to fit under that crossmember is a chore. And getting the slave to sit right while you put on the banjo bolts was the toughest part.
All the frustration aside...I would give this job a decent 4.5/10 for difficulty. not bad, TOTALLY Worth the savings.
heres what I learned:
-If I ever see another crush washer, it will be too soon. Pretty sure I dropped them at least 1000 times and ended up with at least one original back on there. (no leaks)
-its handy to have kids that you can have pump the lever for you, forget the rubber band. When you hear "dad my hand hurts" you know you have pressure again.
-IF you have that helper, dont need a speed bleeder, just push on the ball in the bleeder with a small screwdriver carefully. good because I lost mine.
-get a ujoint swivel drive for your hex head wrenches. getting the bolts in and out would be easier
-do not ride a sportbike before test riding yours after this. the lack of top end makes you think you have clutch slip. I rode a gixxer, with an 11k redline. And hadnt touched my bike in close to 2 months...my bike felt "Slippy" during test ride, then looked down..."oh 6k easy does it mr knievel"
my MAIN worry after this was that the clutch was contaminated from the brake fluid...but its all good, thankfully.
but most importantly.
the Chris Harris video on youtube of the replacement of the slave on a 1200c is not quite accurate. Towards the end, He says "the line closest to the transmission is the line to the clutch lever" UMM...NO! That is WRONG for the 1150r. not sure why.... but I had to take it back out. because I couldn't get it to fit in right. that plus the lost crush washers.... I was a bitter old man by that point. LOL
But again, it is done. and for 600-ish less than a dealer quote.
and my back hurts. I need a bike lift.
LOL.
for someone stopping by for research, looking to tackle this...its not "HARD" to do. but it IS quite frustrating. so be patient (I am not) DOing it without taking the tail apart, like I said before, is doable. But smaller hands, and good dexterity will help here. Contorting your hands to fit under that crossmember is a chore. And getting the slave to sit right while you put on the banjo bolts was the toughest part.
All the frustration aside...I would give this job a decent 4.5/10 for difficulty. not bad, TOTALLY Worth the savings.
heres what I learned:
-If I ever see another crush washer, it will be too soon. Pretty sure I dropped them at least 1000 times and ended up with at least one original back on there. (no leaks)
-its handy to have kids that you can have pump the lever for you, forget the rubber band. When you hear "dad my hand hurts" you know you have pressure again.
-IF you have that helper, dont need a speed bleeder, just push on the ball in the bleeder with a small screwdriver carefully. good because I lost mine.
-get a ujoint swivel drive for your hex head wrenches. getting the bolts in and out would be easier
-do not ride a sportbike before test riding yours after this. the lack of top end makes you think you have clutch slip. I rode a gixxer, with an 11k redline. And hadnt touched my bike in close to 2 months...my bike felt "Slippy" during test ride, then looked down..."oh 6k easy does it mr knievel"
but most importantly.
the Chris Harris video on youtube of the replacement of the slave on a 1200c is not quite accurate. Towards the end, He says "the line closest to the transmission is the line to the clutch lever" UMM...NO! That is WRONG for the 1150r. not sure why.... but I had to take it back out. because I couldn't get it to fit in right. that plus the lost crush washers.... I was a bitter old man by that point. LOL
But again, it is done. and for 600-ish less than a dealer quote.
and my back hurts. I need a bike lift.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
The bearing fails due to the prolonged spinning under pressure (while the clutch is disengaged).
Main lesson that I learned with BMW is to put it in neutral and release the lever, while standing still.
When ready to go, pull the clutch lever, and immediately shift into gear. This way you fix the "no gear engagement" from standstill, another common complaint.
Main lesson that I learned with BMW is to put it in neutral and release the lever, while standing still.
When ready to go, pull the clutch lever, and immediately shift into gear. This way you fix the "no gear engagement" from standstill, another common complaint.
04 Rockster (non ABS, single spark)
91 K75RT
I want to be unique, just like everybody else.
91 K75RT
I want to be unique, just like everybody else.
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
vwdoctor wrote:The bearing fails due to the prolonged spinning under pressure (while the clutch is disengaged).
Main lesson that I learned with BMW is to put it in neutral and release the lever, while standing still.
When ready to go, pull the clutch lever, and immediately shift into gear. This way you fix the "no gear engagement" from standstill, another common complaint.
yes, a definite flaw in my riding style with this bike. Iv'e ALWAYS been a clutch-rider. ok for a wet clutch japanese bike, but not here. I Wasn't aware of the slave having a spinning bearing in it, or I might have adjusted my style earlier. oh well. it would have gone out sometime anyhow, and 7 miles from home is better than on the road far away somewhere.
I also noticed, a quieter machine overall, i think the bearing was probably early beginnings of crap when I bought the bike, But I didnt know any better.
I definitely feel A LOT better today. there was a few days in there where I was pretty disillusioned with my Beemer. One good ride, that is all gone, and reminded again why I pined for this bike for so long.
cheers and happy riding! lets hope the next problem isnt for a long while.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
Hi. So I am dealing with light clutch slippage in my rockster At 30k and suspect this to be my problem as well. Only really slips at higher rpms where it makes the most power .
Did you notice clutch slippage? If so did replacing make it stop or will the clutch plate need to be cleaned or replaced?
Thanks
Did you notice clutch slippage? If so did replacing make it stop or will the clutch plate need to be cleaned or replaced?
Thanks
Re: new clutch slave cylinder
no. I didnt have that problem thankfully.jasondo wrote:Hi. So I am dealing with light clutch slippage in my rockster At 30k and suspect this to be my problem as well. Only really slips at higher rpms where it makes the most power .
Did you notice clutch slippage? If so did replacing make it stop or will the clutch plate need to be cleaned or replaced?
Thanks
the slave going bad will mean you lose the ability to use the clutch lever. Clutch will always be engaged.
I got lucky, I feel. apparently, its one of the known problems on this model. the slave starts to leak, and brake fluid(from the clutch system) can make its way around the shaft and get on the clutch, effectively ruining the disc.
Mine did not LEAK. the bearing in it went bad all at once and died, but the seal to the transmission was fine, so there was just a small amount of oil underneath the slave, no long term problem.
replacing it only gave me back my clutch lever
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.