So my Triumph buddies are trying to talk me out of a Beemer. "Those things require lots of maintenance and it costs a fortune!" they say.
But what's the real story? My understanding is that the valves need to be checked every - what, 4,000 miles (6400m?) But that it's fairly easy to do since the heads are sticking out the side of the bike. But what else?
I know the "manufacturer recommended maintenance" on both of my Triumphs ('01 Thunderbird triple and '08 Scrambler) were kind of a joke. Other than valve adjustment it was a lot of IMO unneccessary fluid changes, like replacing all the brake fluid, front and rear, at 12,000 miles. (In 2007 I bought a 1982 Kawasaki Spectre 750 that had twin disc brakes up front and a single disc in the rear. Bike had ~20,000 miles on it and had obviously been stored most of its life outside. I'm pretty sure that 25-year-old bike, worn, beat up, rode hard and put away wet, was still running on the brake fluid that was put into it at the factory some time in 1982, and it stopped just fine.) When I inquired at a dealer about the cost of the "manufacturer recommended 12k maintenance" I was shocked at the cost: Nearly $900.
So I just shrugged my shoulders and had them adjust the valves. That's it.
Anyway, is it the same with BMWs? IOW, there's a manufacturers "wish list" of things you're supposed to have checked or replaced, but that most people don't bother with?
Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
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martinjmpr
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Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
Martin AKA Zapp Branigan (on ADV)
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790
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MarkShelley
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Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
The 1100 and 1150 need oil and filter, valve adjustments and throttle bodies balanced every 6K miles. Gearbox and final drive oils every 12K miles.
I am just a keen amateur and can do the lot in an hour and a half. The valves are easy peasy. Just pull up a stool and away you go. None of this tank removal mullarkey and fiddling about in confined spaces.
Air filter change takes about a minute.
They are very easy to work on.
I am just a keen amateur and can do the lot in an hour and a half. The valves are easy peasy. Just pull up a stool and away you go. None of this tank removal mullarkey and fiddling about in confined spaces.
Air filter change takes about a minute.
They are very easy to work on.
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martinjmpr
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Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
What does "throttle body balancing" consist of? Do you need special tools to do it?
I figure fluid changes I can do. Does the final drive have a drain plug or do I need a vampire pump to get the old oil out?
The 1150 has a hydraulic clutch, doesn't it? I have to say I LOVED the hydraulic clutch on my '01 Thunderbird. Very smooth!
I figure fluid changes I can do. Does the final drive have a drain plug or do I need a vampire pump to get the old oil out?
The 1150 has a hydraulic clutch, doesn't it? I have to say I LOVED the hydraulic clutch on my '01 Thunderbird. Very smooth!
Martin AKA Zapp Branigan (on ADV)
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790
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AZBMWRIDER
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- Location: Tempe, Aridzona
Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
I bought my '02 1150Rr in August, '02 .
I've got just under 50,000 miles on it .
The only maintenance I've performed on it, is the usual fluid and filter changes .
Flush brakes and clutch once a year .
Tire replacement about every 12,000 miles .
Replace batteries about every 24-36 months, due to the extreme heat here in Phoenix .
Valve clearance check / adjustment every 15,000 miles or so .
Replaced the sparkplug wires about 4 years ago .
Spark plugs every 15,000 miles .
Replaced alternator drive belt this past week, still looked good, but it is going on 12 years old and 50,000 miles, recommended replacement at 30,000 miles .
Replaced three fork seals so far, less than an hours work once you learn what to do .
Replaced all of the brake lines this last April, due to a front line failing .
If you get an 1150R, I would suggest replacing the brakelines with braided stainless lines .
From what I could tell, with the bike on the centerstand and the fork locked to the left, the line from the fitting where the ABS would connect to, to the front wheel, is too short and is under tension, with the bike on the center stand and fork locked to the left, locking the fork to the right, will prevent this .
Only real issue I've had, is with the fuel line quick disconnects, if you get an 1150R and it still has the OEM plastic quick disconnects, get them off the bike as soon as you can, they will break, eventually .
I've had three broken wires around the steering head, due to the harness is too tight in this area .
Final drive output seal failed under warranty and replaced by the dealer .
Pretty trouble free vehicle, pretty much like the cars of today, a bit of maintenace here and there, not a maintenance intense bike at all .
Put fuel in it and go .
I've got just under 50,000 miles on it .
The only maintenance I've performed on it, is the usual fluid and filter changes .
Flush brakes and clutch once a year .
Tire replacement about every 12,000 miles .
Replace batteries about every 24-36 months, due to the extreme heat here in Phoenix .
Valve clearance check / adjustment every 15,000 miles or so .
Replaced the sparkplug wires about 4 years ago .
Spark plugs every 15,000 miles .
Replaced alternator drive belt this past week, still looked good, but it is going on 12 years old and 50,000 miles, recommended replacement at 30,000 miles .
Replaced three fork seals so far, less than an hours work once you learn what to do .
Replaced all of the brake lines this last April, due to a front line failing .
If you get an 1150R, I would suggest replacing the brakelines with braided stainless lines .
From what I could tell, with the bike on the centerstand and the fork locked to the left, the line from the fitting where the ABS would connect to, to the front wheel, is too short and is under tension, with the bike on the center stand and fork locked to the left, locking the fork to the right, will prevent this .
Only real issue I've had, is with the fuel line quick disconnects, if you get an 1150R and it still has the OEM plastic quick disconnects, get them off the bike as soon as you can, they will break, eventually .
I've had three broken wires around the steering head, due to the harness is too tight in this area .
Final drive output seal failed under warranty and replaced by the dealer .
Pretty trouble free vehicle, pretty much like the cars of today, a bit of maintenace here and there, not a maintenance intense bike at all .
Put fuel in it and go .
'02 R1150R, Atlanta Blue
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
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milehighboater
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- Location: Denver, Colorado
Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
I have had an 87 shadow, 2001 Buell and a 2009 KLR before this bike and I have found it has been the easiest to work on. I have put a bit over 20K on mine so far and all I have had to do is the engine and final drive oil. I have checked the valves twice and haven't had to do one adjustment. As far as the brake bleed once a year seems a bit excessive. I just did it when I changed the pads. The only special tool was a funnel attached through a cork. The throttle body adjustment is most commonly done with about 3 feet of clear 1/8 inch tubing on a board in a "U" shape with some transmission fluid in it after that you turn a screw until there is the same amount of fluid on each side. All in all this bike is more like maintaining a car than a bike. All controls are hydraulic so there is no cables to adjust/lube and you wont find yourself on the ground lubing a chain every 500 miles either.
IMO: daily driver that can hit 135mph=BMW, fun, cool occasional weekend mountain road bike=Triumph.
IMO: daily driver that can hit 135mph=BMW, fun, cool occasional weekend mountain road bike=Triumph.
- riceburner
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Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
Apart from the throttle cables.....milehighboater wrote: All controls are hydraulic so there is no cables to adjust/lube
As said - the R1150 series are very easy to maintain, you can do (almost*) an entire full service without taking the tank off. Mine's on 92K+ now, and running fine. The only work I don't do myself is anything requiring getting into the engine/gearbox/final drive cases, eg drive-shaft bearings or gearbox bearings. Clutch is certainly within the abilities of a reasonable amateur mechanic like myself.
* fuel filter kinda needs the tank off....
Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
The R1150R Twin Sparks have Steel brake lines.
If you are looking at a R1150R for sale, the pre-2004 models have 2 cylinders, 2 spark plugs.
2004+ model years have 2 cylinders and 4 spark plugs, hence the name "Twin Spark"
From our links page: the infamous jabrooks goldmine of maintenance info.
http://www.r1150r.net/links.html
http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/
THE maintenance guide:
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R1 ... -25-02.pdf
If you are looking at a R1150R for sale, the pre-2004 models have 2 cylinders, 2 spark plugs.
2004+ model years have 2 cylinders and 4 spark plugs, hence the name "Twin Spark"
From our links page: the infamous jabrooks goldmine of maintenance info.
http://www.r1150r.net/links.html
http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/
THE maintenance guide:
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R1 ... -25-02.pdf
Freedom is dangerous. Those in power that steal freedom are more dangerous.
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martinjmpr
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Re: Maintenance: Truth or fiction?
Well, fingers crossed, going to look at an '04 today. Since I'm an optimist, I brought my trailer to work! 
Martin AKA Zapp Branigan (on ADV)
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790
Littleton, CO
2002 R1150R, 2002 Triumph Bonneville 790