2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
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2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
Hoping someone can help me, will try to make a long story short. I noticed that my 2003 R1150RT was leaking fuel. I determined that it was one of the quick disconnects on the two fuel lines on the right side under the tupperware. Took off the right side fairing, fiddled with the quick disconnect, couldn't figure out why it was leaking. Anyway, fiddled with it enough that I cracked it and made it useless. Now up the creek with no paddle, I drained the tank, cut off both ends of the connector and replaced it with two brass nipples and a short section of generic fuel line. Refilled the tank. I am sure the fuel is flowing through the line, checked that. When I turn the ignition on, I hear (what I believe is) the fuel pump cycle for ~ 5 secs. Engine cranks solidly but will not start. Bike ran flawlessly before. I am an admitted newb and first time BMW owner. Have mercy on me and please help. Thanks. Jim
Re: 2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
Jim,
First the obvious but easy to overlook when you're flustered. Is the sidestand up, the transmission in neutral and the kill switch in the run position? Automatic ignition cutout could be the problem.
OK now that's out of the way let's move on ....
The OEM plastic QDs were bound to fail eventually, at least they did so when you were at home rather than 100 km from home. Replace them with metal ones from Beemerboneyard http://www.beemerboneyard.com/. Now for the immediate problem - the temporary fix that hasn't.
There are 2 fuel lines. One fuel line takes fuel from the fuel pump under high pressure to the throttle bodies. The other returns fuel under low pressure to the tank. I lifted this diagram another site but it shows what I mean -
Now if when you cut out the QDs you didn't notice which ends connected with which, you may have inadvertently reconnected a high pressure fuel supply line to a low pressure return line. Hence the fuel pump makes all the right noises but nothing happens. Let us know how you go.
Ian
First the obvious but easy to overlook when you're flustered. Is the sidestand up, the transmission in neutral and the kill switch in the run position? Automatic ignition cutout could be the problem.
OK now that's out of the way let's move on ....
The OEM plastic QDs were bound to fail eventually, at least they did so when you were at home rather than 100 km from home. Replace them with metal ones from Beemerboneyard http://www.beemerboneyard.com/. Now for the immediate problem - the temporary fix that hasn't.
There are 2 fuel lines. One fuel line takes fuel from the fuel pump under high pressure to the throttle bodies. The other returns fuel under low pressure to the tank. I lifted this diagram another site but it shows what I mean -
Now if when you cut out the QDs you didn't notice which ends connected with which, you may have inadvertently reconnected a high pressure fuel supply line to a low pressure return line. Hence the fuel pump makes all the right noises but nothing happens. Let us know how you go.
Ian
60% of the art of conversation is knowing when to say nothing
Re: 2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
Came back from my first Carolina BMW Motorcycle Owners Association breakfast and developed a fuel leak that started smoking - not sure where it came from, just came on all of a sudden. Luckily I wasn't too far from home. Decided to document my entire teardown since I just took delivery of my '04 R1150R 3 weeks ago and figured it 'd be good to see what's going on under the armor.
Fuel leak about 10 miles from home - messy gas discoloration on the transmission:
Unbolted everything starting with the fuel connector cover, the radiator covers, the small side fairings flanking both sides of the seat, the passenger grab rails as well as the rear rack, fuel lines, overflow hoses, and battery connectors.
Disconnected lines going to what is either my fuel filter or my charcoal cannister, not sure what the big cylinder is yet - will know more when my Haynes manual comes in this week:
Finally removed the gas tank:
Resulting pieces laid out:
Checked the the gas tank to see if the leak came from there:
,
Looked on the underside:
Needed additional lighting:
Appears as thought the culprits was the quick disconnect, which apparently is a known weakness due to its plastic construction:
Have placed an order with BeemerBoneyard to get their metal replacements to address this materials engineering weakness and will post pictures when I've completed them. Hopefully I reconnect all the hoses correctly.
Fuel leak about 10 miles from home - messy gas discoloration on the transmission:
Unbolted everything starting with the fuel connector cover, the radiator covers, the small side fairings flanking both sides of the seat, the passenger grab rails as well as the rear rack, fuel lines, overflow hoses, and battery connectors.
Disconnected lines going to what is either my fuel filter or my charcoal cannister, not sure what the big cylinder is yet - will know more when my Haynes manual comes in this week:
Finally removed the gas tank:
Resulting pieces laid out:
Checked the the gas tank to see if the leak came from there:
, Looked on the underside:
Needed additional lighting:
Appears as thought the culprits was the quick disconnect, which apparently is a known weakness due to its plastic construction:
Have placed an order with BeemerBoneyard to get their metal replacements to address this materials engineering weakness and will post pictures when I've completed them. Hopefully I reconnect all the hoses correctly.
-
opposedtwin
- Basic User
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:32 pm
Re: 2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
I know you're looking for a complex solution to the problem you're experiencing but I would bet the answer is simpler than you expect. I thinkd the reason your bike won't start is due to the throttle cable on the right side is not fully seated in the adjuster. It only takes a small (1/8th) inch slack and the bike won't start. First knee jerk reaction is electrical the fuel problems. What makes me think this is looking at the pieces of your bike scattered about and being reminded that was exactly how mine looked when I had that problem. After purchasing an ignition coil and new plugs, and fuel disconnects I noticed the cable wasn't seated. Correctly seated the cable, never thinking that contributed to the cranking problem but tried cranking it anyway and it cranked immediately. Hope your fix is simple as mine. By the way I have an ignition coil for sale if you need it, lol.
Re: 2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
Good to know opposedtwin. I'll check the cable as you suggested. I personally find it fun to spin my own wrenches and learn how this stuff works.opposedtwin wrote:I know you're looking for a complex solution to the problem you're experiencing but I would bet the answer is simpler than you expect. I thinkd the reason your bike won't start is due to the throttle cable on the right side is not fully seated in the adjuster. It only takes a small (1/8th) inch slack and the bike won't start. First knee jerk reaction is electrical the fuel problems. What makes me think this is looking at the pieces of your bike scattered about and being reminded that was exactly how mine looked when I had that problem. After purchasing an ignition coil and new plugs, and fuel disconnects I noticed the cable wasn't seated. Correctly seated the cable, never thinking that contributed to the cranking problem but tried cranking it anyway and it cranked immediately. Hope your fix is simple as mine. By the way I have an ignition coil for sale if you need it, lol.
Re: 2003 R1150RT Will Not Start - Fuel Problem
Alright - returned from a trip to Asheville, NC the other week and then went to work on Monday. After a long day at work, went out, and tried to start my baby and she wouldn't kick over. Had to get a flatbed to tow my bike back home. When I got home, I found some issues. One - the throttle cable connection at the handlebar had gotten loose. So tightened that up and fired it up. Bike started. Got me a cold one and called it a night.
2 days later tried to start the bike, and wouldn't start. Turns out one of the fuses in my fusebox had wiggled partially loose. So tightened it, and it fired right up. Got another brewski and called it a night.
A week later, tried to go for a ride and the bike still wouldn't kick over. All I did was wiggle the wiring loom a bit where I had cut my OEM zip ties off to see if I could find a point where the wires had worn through or were causing a short of some kind. After wiggling them around some, tried to start it and it fired right up.
Right now my confidence level in the bike's operation is not that high considering something is either loose with the electricals or there's a short in a wire somewhere that I cannot yet see. Any thoughts on troubleshooting? It's not the battery since I just replaced the BMW Exide battery 2 weeks ago with a brand new Odyssey. Dummy lights turn on, engine seems to want to kick over when I thumb the starter but I don't hear a clicking sound.
2 days later tried to start the bike, and wouldn't start. Turns out one of the fuses in my fusebox had wiggled partially loose. So tightened it, and it fired right up. Got another brewski and called it a night.
A week later, tried to go for a ride and the bike still wouldn't kick over. All I did was wiggle the wiring loom a bit where I had cut my OEM zip ties off to see if I could find a point where the wires had worn through or were causing a short of some kind. After wiggling them around some, tried to start it and it fired right up.
Right now my confidence level in the bike's operation is not that high considering something is either loose with the electricals or there's a short in a wire somewhere that I cannot yet see. Any thoughts on troubleshooting? It's not the battery since I just replaced the BMW Exide battery 2 weeks ago with a brand new Odyssey. Dummy lights turn on, engine seems to want to kick over when I thumb the starter but I don't hear a clicking sound.