'04 R1150R Replacing Fuel Quick Disconnect Pictorial

[ekyang]

Alright - am documenting my swap of my plastic fuel quick disconnects which caused a gas leak about 10 miles from home and resulted in my transmission discoloration here:


Today I'll be showing how to swap the FQDs on the tubes away from the fuel tank (not the tubes coming from the fuel tank). Reason being I didn't have a clamp to pinch shut the fuel line for me to work on the fuel side FQDs.

Step 1: Order replacement fuel quick disconnects. Mine came from Beemerboneyard. Expensive but appear to be sturdy enough to minimize long term future failures. I've seen some guys use copper tubing to join this section here directly - there are cheaper alternatives than these but do what works for you that maintains a safe ride.
Beemerboneyard Fuel Quick Disconnects (FQDs):
Close up of female FQD:
Top view of female FQD:
Bottom view of female FQD:
Close of up male FQD:
Top view of male FQD:
Bottom view of male FQD:

Step 2: Remove stock FQDs.
Stock FQDs:

Remove the clamps that secure your FQDs to the tubes. I've seen guys use metal cutters to clip these off and reuse the tubing. I didn't have metal cutters but I did have a Dremel tool with a metal cutting wheel. WARNING: Be VERY careful if you use this method since there is a slight risk of a fire hazard i.e. sparks from metal being cut near your fuel lines. In addition, if you use a metal cutting wheel at 8k RPMs on the Dremel to cut away the metal clamps, the clamps heat up to a very high temp that can burn you if you're not wearing some kind of thermal resistant gloves. My engine was cold, and I made sure that there were no flammable vapors/fuels in the immediate area and proceeded with caution.


After you've cut through the metal clamps and removed them using needle nose pliers you'll have to remove the stock FQD from the tubing which are on there super tight. I started using a flat head screwdriver to give me a gap between the tubing and the FQD and then inserted a thin needle nose plier into the tubing to get enough space to wiggle the stock FQD out. Took a little bit of wrestling but finally got it off intact. Take your new clamp and slide it onto the tube before attaching your new FQD. In my case, the new FQD slid right in without any hassle. Use a screwdriver to secure the new clamp thereby ensuring a tight fit between the new FQD and the tubing.



More steps to be posted after I complete the fuel tank side FQD's tomorrow.

[CycleRob]

ekyang,
When I replaced my plastic QDs with the same set you bought, I Dremel cut all the clamps off before removing any old parts from their drippy fuel hoses -and- you also will not need to protect any new parts or exposed openings. Also, my 2002 bike was 6+ years old and squeezing bending the stiff fuel hoses told me it needed new fuel hoses. The hardest part of that fuel line R&R was getting the old hose off the hard but flexible plastic rear fuel lines that are part of the $100 fuel pressure regulator assembly. I had to cut lengthwise thru the rubber hoses outer rubber and the woven cloth reinforcement layers to loosen it up enough for removal, without going all the way thru to the plastic piping. That would make a longitudinal slice in the piping's smooth surface, very likely causing a high pressure fuel weep in addition to making a structural weak spot .

New high pressure fuel injection fuel line is available at the auto parts chain stores like AutoZone or Advance Auto parts. It was over $21 for 4 feet of it.

[Dr. Strangelove]

Three things to add
if you have a working old connector save it and attach it to a hose. It can be used for a fuel exchange, should someone run out.

If you change the tubing, BE SURE to get the proper grade. There are different grades of fuel injector hose. For external applications the grade you seek is 9, for inside the tank it's 10. ( That's right, Rob, isn't it?). NAPA carries it.

It is expensive, but if you use the "bargain" hose you get from AdvanceAuto or Autozone, it may be R7 or 8--it's written on the side. It will allow gasoline to soften the tubing and possibly burst. It will also allow gas to weep fumes at least through the intact hose. I mistakenly used the wrong grade and I kept smelling gas fumes, and saw no leaks, after a few days the hoses were visbly bulging.
Get the right stuff.

Finally, get the EXACT right size FI clamp. The next size up will fit, but will not securely prevent leaking.

John

PS Good photos btw

[ekyang]

Very helpful gentlemen - I'll do a fuel line hose R and R when I do a fuel filter replacement later this summer.

Question on the tip suggestion on keeping the FQD as a hose tip to transfer fuel - under what scenarios would you use this method to transfer fuel vs just using a regular gas can and filing up the tank? Also for my own future reference do you have a pic of which tube is supposed to connect with which nozzle on the OEM charcoal canister location? These are the only points where I may have mixed up the tubes.

Thx for the pix compliment. There's something to be said for using a dedicated camera vs. smartphone cameras. The difference in low light and macro resolution still leaves something to be desired. I'm using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1 point and shoot.