The first thing to note (see photo below) is that the Classic’s spoke wheel rims are marked MTH2 on the side wall and, as shown in the photo inset, there is a 5 degree reverse slope on the textured area next to the bead seat leading to a bump that together are designed to keep the tire on the rim if the tire goes flat. More info on MTH2 cross section rims can be found on Snowbum’s airhead site (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/section6.htm). I have seen closeup photos of R1200GS cross spoke wheel rims that also had an MTH2 designation; these GS rims are used with tubeless tires (and no tube). Thus there appears to be no safety issue in converting the R1200R Classic rims to tubeless because the bead mounting area of the rim is the type that is typically used for tubeless tires.
The outex kit is based on a two layer thick system consisting of a thick flexible adhesive strip and a durable plastic cover that together seal the spoke nuts on the inside of the rim. After removing the tire, tube, and rim protector rubber strip covering the nuts, I cleaned the inside of the rim with acetone. Woody suggests putting a layer of gap-forming cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. thick crazy glue) in the spoke hole and around the base of each nut to provide a solid foundation that prevents the strip from pushing down into the cracks under pressure and eventually forming micropores. The process I used is shown in the figure below. I first used a small sanding disk on a Dremel to smooth off the rough edges (upper left inset) on each spoke nut to produce a smooth surface (middle upper inset). After they were all sanded, I then scrubbed around each nut with soapy water (dish soap), using a toothbrush to remove any sanding residue; I then used hot water to thoroughly rinse off the soap residue and let the rim thoroughly dry. After this preparation, the nuts were filled in with rubberized cyanoacrylate glue (Bob Smith Industries IC-2000, 1oz. size). This glue is black in color and surrounds the nut and fills the thread hole. The trick is to apply it in thin layers (<0.5mm thick) and spray on a mist of accelerator (Bob Smith Industries Insta-set Accelerator Spray-2oz.) through a paper mask (upper right inset) for EACH layer. This filling-in must be done for each nut in a series of thin layers (<0.5mm thick) in order for the glue to harden properly. If you put it all on in one step and then spray the accelerator, only the glue on the surface hardens. I found it convenient to hold the rim during this gluing by having the lower half of the rim sit in the opening of a plastic crate on the floor.
I cleaned the rim again with soapy water, rinsed thoroughly with hot water, and then let it dry. The process I used for applying the adhesive strip, covering, and valve (which comes with kit) followed the instructions in the kit. The only additional step I took was to measure the width of the adhesive strip and then put pencil marks next to each spoke nut, as shown (red arrows) in the figure below, that indicated the expected edge of the strip if it were properly centered over the spoke nuts. This was a great help when slowly pressing on the adhesive strip, because otherwise it is too easy to get it off center as you go around the rim. I also cut the strip at an angle (instead of perpendicular to its length) where the junction occurs between two spoke nuts. This is shown in one of the installation videos available on the Outex website, but not clearly indicated on the instruction sheet that came with the kit. The kit comes with circular adhesive pads to put over the spoke nuts before installing the strips. Given that the nuts were filled with the rubberized glue, I don't think it is necessary. However, I decided to put the pads on the nuts in the front rim and no pads on the rear, to test it out both ways. I suspect there will be no differences down the road.
The photo below shows the installed sealing strip. The metal bolt-in valve that comes with the kit is high-quality and it fits in the existing valve hole perfectly without the need to enlarge the hole. This means that if you end up not liking this sealing system, you can just revert back to the tube set-up, as you have not altered the rim.
The tires I chose (Michelin Pilot Road 3) went on the rims fine using two short, and one long, tire spoons (and a NoMar stand for holding the rim while mounting). I static balanced the wheels (after installing the TPMS sensor on the valve ) using a Parnas axle assembly (BG12 kit, marcparnes.com).
I purchased the Doran Model #360M TPMS system to monitor tire pressure on the tubeless rims. Installation was straightforward. As shown in the photo below, I mounted the display on the handlebar next to the clutch control lever. The only wiring required is power for the unit; in my case, the power wire was led under the gas tank to an Eastern Beaver switched fuse panel I had previously installed under the seat. As shown in the inset, the sensors mount on the valves and fit easily in the area between spokes.
I performed the whole installation about 6 weeks ago and set the tire pressures to the factory recommended 36 PSI front, 42 PSI rear. It's been cold in NJ and I have only put about a hundred miles on the bike since the installation, but so far the pressures have not dropped at all (measured at 50 degrees; the pressure changes with temperature) since I first set them 6 weeks ago. With the inner tube setup I had previously, I needed to top up the pressure every few weeks, so this is already an improvement. Of course, only time (and miles) will tell if this is a good system on the R12R Classic. But so far I have been very pleased with how the conversion went.
