EWS??

[Bearslayer]

Suddenly (or not) my 2007 R1200R won't start, partial turnover on some attempts but mostly just the "click-click-click" then the EWS code appears. My trickle charger claims the battery is fully charged, headlight comes on brightly. It only came with the one key, so I don't understand what's going on. Any ideas? nearest service is 100 miles away (160 KM).
---Bearslayer

[dbrick]

The Exide AGM batteries used by BMW are known for sudden failure, and a bad or inconsistent battery can generate other symptoms. I would see if the bike will start with a jump from a good battery. If the bike starts and doesn't present an EWS error, then the battery was bad - despite what the charger said and the EWS warning. If the bike cranks but won't start and still displays an EWS, then the EWS ring has probably failed. I think there was a recall on these rings.

[Bearslayer]

Thanks, but would the headlight be bright if the battery is bad? seems unlikely to me.
---Bearslayer

[BoxerSteve]

Thanks, but would the headlight be bright if the battery is bad? seems unlikely to me.
---Bearslayer

It does take quite a bit more power to crank the engine than run the headlight. Still worth a shot, jumping it, to rule out the battery.

[BigEasy]

If I remember correctly from when the EWS failure was all the rage, the bike wouldn't even crank if the ring failed. You probably want to do a search to verify my suspect memory.

If your battery is the origional it's most likely toast. A trickle charger will only tell you that it has a charge, not what kind of load the battery will take. As Steve pointed out it doesn't take a whole lot to make a light shine but it takes a bunch of fresh juice to turn over a motor like these. Your symptoms and potential battery age point to the need for a new one.

[Bearslayer]

Thanks, the rest of the story is that it has had a bit of trouble cranking recently, and for a few months I've noticed all of the mileage calculators, etc., have reset each time I ride (which was not the norm). I thought I had already replaced this battery, but I might have conflated this 'cycle with another. The EWS and strong headlight beam made me think think it was something more ominous than a bad battery.
---Bearslayer

[Mustang Man]

If the engine tries to crank at all It is probably not the antenna ring ascociated with the key. I had an antenna ring go bad while on a trip to Costa Rica. A bad ring indicates the EWS as soon as you turn the key and the bike will not even attempt to crank. I agree with others, it sounds like a bad battery...
MM

[Bob Ain't Stoppin']

MM - While this may well be a bad battery, your description mostly confirms only that the voltage to the dash is going low when you try to start (this for some time). And that recently the starter isn't getting enough juice to crank.

The other possibility here is a bad connection (either ground or positive). Simple test. Put a volt meter on the battery posts (no where else!). Do your start routine and see if the battery voltage goes flat, or below about 9 volts while you are trying to start. If the battery stays at 12 or so volts, then you have a bad connection in the system. If the battery voltage goes way down, it's junk.

I'm gonna guess you won't even get as far as to complete this test. Look for a loose battery terminal connection. Then let us know what your results are.

[Bearslayer]

Battery terminal connections are solid, that was my first check. Don't have a voltmeter, will probably just replace it and see.

[Ckaine]

Afternoon:

Definitely sounds like a failed battery from you previous symptoms. I had a 'Sudden Battery Death' experience about two years ago-had a 'weird' start with a reset-I would check the connections=but I believe you will find a bad battery. Regards

[Mustang Man]

Bob,
My main point was the antenna ring as the culprit. I believe it is not. There are many other conditions to consider, but the battery would be my first. I have read many postings here about battery failure. It seems to be a common problem with electrical systems...
MM

[Bob Ain't Stoppin']

MM - Agreed that the battery is most likely. But it's also the most expensive. If you don't own a volt meter, you should. So go get one for about $30 and it will serve you for years. Then you can prove your issues before spending your hard earned $. Just my way of thinking. YMMV.

[Bearslayer]

Hey thanks to all who took the time to reply, I really appreciate it. New battery solved the issue, just glad it was that simple. I will take the advice and invest in a voltmeter Ride safe.
---Bearslayer

[TinkerToy]

Better late than never... for those who store info for use latter on...11.8 volts is the shut down voltage ...any less the computer says to the system ,"not enough voltage to crank" damage to components may occur This was told to me by a service manager at the local BMW shop.[dash lights come on as normal, everything looks fine, push starter button and nothing ] Look for Harbor Freight coupons...they sometimes give away a volt-ohm meter,nothing fancy but a unit sufficient to cary in your tool kit...you may have to purchase something --- a good time to get the 3/8 drive large torqx drivers,I beleive they are the 40,45,50, sizes $4.oo or $5.oo for all three Tinkertoy says that