During the return ride from a weekend camping outing, the switch for the heated grips failed and activated them despite being in the off position (which felt great in 90F+ weather, in case you're wondering). This might also explain why the right turn signal has been flakey the past couple weeks too.
The heated grip switch has failed in the past (2-3 years ago) in a similar fashion, which I resolved by replacing the switch gear, so this is leading me to wonder if there isn't a design flaw? I'm wondering if the right switchgear is particularly susceptible to moisture intrusion or if there isn't an underlying problem elsewhere in the wiring harness that might be manifesting itself as hot grips.
I should add that I plan to disassemble and inspect the right switchgear once I have a replacement.
Switchgear Failure
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Switchgear Failure
Can't solve your problem, but I know from experience how sensitive these bikes are to moisture in electrical connectors and switches etc, so your rationale sounds about right. A small hint, or actually three small hints.
When you wash your bike, ride it dry. These things hate sitting around drying slowly by evaporation. Ride heat and airflow helps dry everything properly before it gets parked.
Use a good dielectric grease in the electrical connectors. It will prevent most problems before they start.
Use a good silicone spray on/in your switchgear. In most cases, careful application around the switch rockers will mean you don't need to disassemble the switchgear, but even just loosening the screws and 'cracking' the joins will allow the spray to enter. The side benefit is that the silicone spray will make the switches work and look like new.
Try that on yours. It sounds like corroded pins.
When you wash your bike, ride it dry. These things hate sitting around drying slowly by evaporation. Ride heat and airflow helps dry everything properly before it gets parked.
Use a good dielectric grease in the electrical connectors. It will prevent most problems before they start.
Use a good silicone spray on/in your switchgear. In most cases, careful application around the switch rockers will mean you don't need to disassemble the switchgear, but even just loosening the screws and 'cracking' the joins will allow the spray to enter. The side benefit is that the silicone spray will make the switches work and look like new.
Try that on yours. It sounds like corroded pins.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
- iowabeakster
- Quadruple Lifer
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Re: Switchgear Failure
I post this picture regularly, for the benefit of people new to the bike, or this site. (credit cyclerob)
A great many people have had electrical difficulties because of these zip-ties. Your problem might be right at the points under the zip-ties. The zip-ties put way too much stress on the harnesses.

A great many people have had electrical difficulties because of these zip-ties. Your problem might be right at the points under the zip-ties. The zip-ties put way too much stress on the harnesses.

I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
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psychodeathbot
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Re: Switchgear Failure
Thanks for the advice and the excellent graphic. I'll post the results of the exploratory surgery...
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psychodeathbot
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Re: Switchgear Failure
I'm taking apart the right switchgear in order to diagnose why the heated grips remain on...has anyone disassembled a switchgear with the euro headlight switch before?
It looks like there's just one screw (near my thumb in the pic) holding it all together but there seems to be something still holding the fascia piece/cover to the actual switch housing (near my index finger in the pic but removed). The sticking point seems to be near the headlight switch or is the switch itself. Obviously I'd like to salvage the assembly if possible and the cover should come off since I don't think it's entirely solid-state.
Thoughts?

It looks like there's just one screw (near my thumb in the pic) holding it all together but there seems to be something still holding the fascia piece/cover to the actual switch housing (near my index finger in the pic but removed). The sticking point seems to be near the headlight switch or is the switch itself. Obviously I'd like to salvage the assembly if possible and the cover should come off since I don't think it's entirely solid-state.
Thoughts?

Re: Switchgear Failure
Hi there,
the switch should be held together by 2 Torx T6 screws. One maybe visible and the other one is usually hidden under a sticker. be careful when opening this baby as there are very small washers and microscopic spings which you will never be able to retrieve once they have jumped away ...
I'd suggest you stick to applying some electronic spray. Only if that does not help at all try to proceed with opening the switch housing.
Good luck with this.
Brgds
Oliver
the switch should be held together by 2 Torx T6 screws. One maybe visible and the other one is usually hidden under a sticker. be careful when opening this baby as there are very small washers and microscopic spings which you will never be able to retrieve once they have jumped away ...
I'd suggest you stick to applying some electronic spray. Only if that does not help at all try to proceed with opening the switch housing.
Good luck with this.
Brgds
Oliver
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psychodeathbot
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- Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 11:57 am
Re: Switchgear Failure
I didn't even think of lifting the damn stickers! Thanks, Oliver...I will break out my jeweler's glass.