Fuel Leak

[DAV-AZ]

Well, now that the Arizona temperatures are below triple digits (F) I thought I'd go for a ride. Turned the key and started the bike. Almost immediately I had fuel running down the left side of the bike onto the ground. Shut it down without incident. Pulled the tank and reconnected it alongside the bike. The threaded boss for the quick disconnect fitting for the fuel line leading to the fuel filter from the fuel pump assembly has two cracks and fuel was spraying out of one of them. Looks to me like the factory applied a little too much torque to the fitting and the housing failed. '07 bike.

A new fuel pump assy is $475 at Max BMW. I'd also need to find a pin wrench to remove the housing and a pair of special hose clamp pliers to reattach a hose clamp, plus hose clamp, plus fitting, plus a seal, plus shipping, etc..

Sure wish it had been a split hose!

Anyone else had this issue?

If not, can I get some sympathy here?

[dbrick]

Oooh, I can be sympathetic. I just bought a new-to-me 2007, and have mused several times about how it's out of warranty.

Oetiker clamps used by BMW require a special tool, as you discovered, and are sometimes destroyed in opening them anyway. There are easily available subsitutes that don't require special tools; make sure you get the ones that clamp by means of a bolt, and have a sleeve of metal that slides underneath the bolt to protect the hose. The Haynes manual shows a picture of a home-brew wrench to unscrew the housing from the tank.

As to the price of parts...ouch. Maybe the cracks could be brazed or welded or something, at lesser cost.

[DAV-AZ]

Thanks for the symphathy. Much needed.

First money I've had to spend on the bike, less farkles of course.

Unfortunately, the cracked housing is plastic. Thought about trying some kind of glue, but I'm thinking glue and fuel are not compatable. Besides, the leak poured gasoline down the side of the bike directly onto the cylinder. I can just imagine going up in flames after a less than perfect repair.

[dbrick]

I didn't understand the fractured part was plastic; I wouldn't try to repair it either.

[mistral]

There is a post on the BMW ST board about this. This is evidently a common problem. I have a 2007 RT and it is cracked. I ordered metal disconnects for the RT and my 2007 R1200R. Guess what upon taking off the R tank it is cracked, too. I will be trying a repair using JB Water Weld. Time will tell. I hate to say it, but a lot of your bikes are probably cracked and you just do not know it. It is a design flaw, and should be a recall.

Trips ended on the side of the road or a possible fire and end of the bike. It costs a lot of money for a new part and you get the same bad design that is just going to crack again.

Ron

[DAV-AZ]

Ron, I've been following the issue on that other forum too. Looks like the fuel pump assembly failure is more common than I would have guessed. I tried the JB weld repair twice with negative results. The high pressure fuel first cut it's way through the weld and on the second try, just sprayed out the top. So, I have a new assembly on order coming from Germany, none in the sates.

Over $500 with shipping and tax. Sure hurts.........

[mistral]

Ron, I've been following the issue on that other forum too. Looks like the fuel pump assembly failure is more common than I would have guessed. I tried the JB weld repair twice with negative results. The high pressure fuel first cut it's way through the weld and on the second try, just sprayed out the top. So, I have a new assembly on order coming from Germany, none in the sates.

Over $500 with shipping and tax. Sure hurts.........

That is not good Dave, I have my RT in on warranty, and they said it would be about a week on the part. Sounds like they may have my bike a little longer. I put the metal disconnects on my R and it is leaking where it screws into the tank. I may be screwing up somewhere. I am starting to suck at this repair. I did put the JB water weld on it. If I do get it to stop leaking I am still going to have some paranoia. Hope you are back on the road soon.

Ron

[deilenberger]

Just curious - is there any correlation between installing the metal disconnects and the cracking of the fuel-pump threaded boss? IIRC the thread used is similar to a pipe thread, which gets slightly larger in diameter as you thread it in, which could cause the boss to fracture (I could be all wet on this - I haven't examined the fittings close up and personal.. guess I should some time..) Plastic ones may have a bit more compressibility then metal..

[deilenberger]

Answered my own question - no, it isn't necessarily related to using a metal fitting (although installing one and tightening it too tight for sure will accelerate this flaw..)

Good thread on it: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... 196&page=1

I sorta like the preemptive idea of a clamp/JB-Weld... wonder what the diameter of the boss is (anyone who has one out like to take a caliper to it?) And what WAS VDO thinking when they came up with that lame design (pipe-thread into plastic is almost a guarantee of eventual failure..)

Thank Dog for my Contego warranty..

[DAV-AZ]

Don I would be pleased to measure mine up for you, except it is now all slathered up with leaking JB weld

Perhaps in a week / ten days I'll be able to get you the numbers when my new assembly shows up.

The sides of the boss are straight and the area it extends from is flat, so it wouldn't be much of an issue to glue a reinforcing "ring" around it.

Not sure if the ring would help in the end though. Mine had four cracks. Looked like they started on the flat outer surface that the QD seats on, and extended down into the threads to various degrees. Only one of the four cracks was actually spraying out fuel.

I have not purchased metal replacement QD's so that was never a factor in my case.

[deilenberger]

Don I would be pleased to measure mine up for you, except it is now all slathered up with leaking JB weld

Perhaps in a week / ten days I'll be able to get you the numbers when my new assembly shows up.

The sides of the boss are straight and the area it extends from is flat, so it wouldn't be much of an issue to glue a reinforcing "ring" around it.

Not sure if the ring would help in the end though. Mine had four cracks. Looked like they started on the flat outer surface that the QD seats on, and extended down into the threads to various degrees. Only one of the four cracks was actually spraying out fuel.

I have not purchased metal replacement QD's so that was never a factor in my case.

IF the thread is a pipe thread (and it looks like it) the QD shouldn't be seating on anything, that means it's cranked in too far. A pipe thread is tightened to an interference fit in the threads. Generally some teflon tape is also a very good idea (helps with sealing and lessens the force needed to seal it..)

Be interested in the measurements..