Removed the rear muffler, LOVE the sound!

[macx]

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... C13679.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... C13678.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... C13674.jpg

Those pics were taken after dark so you have to look for the tip.

Yes, I use the bags full time. Actually less potential for problem with this tip
than with the stock muffler.

With the tip turned down & out it directs the exhaust downward away from the bags
and outward away from the tire & wheel, and the outlet is quite a ways below and
forward of the lowest most forward part of the bag.

The bag was just a couple inches above the stock muffler.

[dechaoz05]

yeah like macx said, there's no worry with the bags. there's tons of space between the jtd134 and the bag.

jb works awesome. i've put on about 100 miles (i know, das not a whole lot) after installing the jtd134, so far so good. no problems at all. it looks very clean too

here's a pic with the bags on
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dechaoz05/ ... /lightbox/

[Goldenboys]

So is it best to slot the inlet wall in four places and use the stock clamp or use JBweld to hold it in place?

[macx]

I cut 10 slits in it with a sawzall blade which made a wider slit than
a bandsaw blade. I had to remove that much material to be able to
reduce the inside diameter enough so that it fit snugly on the outside
of the cat outlet when clamped.

My personal "mantra" is not to make modifications permanet when
possible, such as with JB weld.

With my stainless band clamp, I can remove it at any time and
restore to stock should I wish, such as to sell the bike.

Also I'd worry about JB weld possibly loosening over time due to
vibration and heat. It may not, but with a clamp, no worries.

Take a look at the stock clamp - the shield sticks out quite a ways
from the pipe and I just thought it would look strange after I studied
it awhile. I used a very sturdy stainless worm drive type hose clamp,
positioning the clamp drive on the inside / lower part of the pipe
so it doesn't show and clipping off the excess tail, and it is not
obtrusive looking. To me, it just seems neater. Just my personal preference.

I'll take a better (daylight) picture and post later today.

[Dr. Strangelove]

the length of the tip changes the sound. You might want to experiment by sliding it back and forth. My length has a throatiness similar to the bare cat.

I had mine made at a mitey muffler (and then cut shorter). It is an aluminum steel alloy and is gray like the wheels. Held in place by a H-D circle clamp (stainless 1 7/8 or 2"??). The tip is beveled (by Mitey) so that it neither blows exhaust on the wheels nor the cases. It is visible in all of my RR's.

I personally do not like the look of store bought tips, especially the screws holding it in place. I do not believe there is anything chrome on the R, is there? And they are too long.

Mitey offered to do a stainless tip, but it would have been more expensive, though consistent with the rest of the exhaust system. I did the alloy. The ss would have matched the exhaust system, but the alloy blends in against the wheel color.

Love the sound, do not notice any difference in vibration, my mileage went up, and I have had Stella! thus modified for about 50k now. Performed same operation for another board member and they like it just fine. It kind of disappears there.

In addition, it ages well and can be simply cleaned with Brillo to a nice brushed gray finish, similar to the brushed housing on Motolights.

obviously, ymmv. Just my 2 cents.

JOhn

[eduardobelmonte]

Just installed the JTD134 exhaust.
Used a metal filler 1.25 mm thick in between the RR exhaust tube and the short pipe.
The real gap between them is 1.8 mm, preferred to use a smaller filler otherwise it would have probably be impossible to install it.

The JTD134 external diameter is 51.5 mm
The JTD134 internal diameter ( I filed the border imperfections away ) is 47.62 mm
The RR exhaust outer diameter is 44 mm.

I fabricated that insert using Home Depot parts that are sold to hold together wooden parts used for roofing. In this case it was a straight ruler of something like 12 inches long; I cut it in the correct lenght, that is Pi times 44 = 138 mm and gave it a cylindrical shape as needed to fit around the RR exhaust pipe.

After that I pushed the JTD134 into the RR exhaust, with the filler already in place. I bent the border of the filler a bit inwards so it would not obstruct the JTD134 when being placed in, that bent part was like the 5mm nearer to the incoming JTD134.

I pushed the JTD134 up until it covered a bit more than half the insert. At that point it was already hard to push it in any further.

Then I used three metallic pieces, like 3 inches long each I cut from a " 3/4" x 10' Galvanized Hanger Strap" part # 33923 at the Home Depot. This thing is used to support pipes hanging from roofs and attached on walls.

I placed these three metallic pieces uniformly separated, flat against the exhaust the filler and the JTD134 diameters, then used three metal worm clamps on top of them. One bitting completely over the JTD134, one other over the filler insert, and the last bitting exclusively over the RR pipe. The three of them bitting over the three metallic pieces.

I did not need to make any slots on the JTD134. I chose not to because with this technique it was not needed and because the JTD134 metal is to thick and wouldn't bend nicely I believe, also the difference in external RR diameter and internal JTD134 being 3.6 mm if not soehow filled would have surely generated a leak through the slots..., I believe.

These metal parts cost at the HD were less than 10$ total. And only a small part of them was used.

The sound is great.
I do travel long with my RR, so I'll let you know how it works noise wise in long tips soon.

Well this are my two cents.

I have a question for you all now..., I'm considering to get a Left case from a R1150RT, now that the big exhaust is not there anymore. I'm sure the two top supports of this case match the ones present on the RR, my question is if the bottom support matches with the position offered on the RR ( that is close to the pillion's left foot )????
The code of the RT left 32 lt case is 46 54 2 317 611.
The code of the RR left 25 lt case is 46 54 2 317 031.

Thanks a lot for any info on this.

Eduardo.

[NoRRmad]

The RT left-case does not match the RR bottom support position. But there are work-arounds. Many people have mounted the RT case after removing the muffler. The simplest modification involves adding another "slot" -- with aluminum channel -- onto the case. There's a writeup here on the procedure if you do a search.

[page62]

I went to my local Pep Boys and got a 1¾" galvanized steel exhaust tailpipe, about 12" long. Basically, it's a standard car exhaust tip with a beveled turn-down end. And it's made of heavy-gauge steel. Turns out it fits on tightly and the clamp can hold it down without and slits cut into it. I took the pipe, sandblasted it (you could also prep it with a wire wheel or sand paper). Then I painted it with black header paint. Now it looks similar to the evap canister on the other side.

Total cost: $5.99 plus a little high-temp paint!

[pyrate]

I went to my local Pep Boys and got a 1¾" galvanized steel exhaust tailpipe, about 12" long. Basically, it's a standard car exhaust tip with a beveled turn-down end. And it's made of heavy-gauge steel. Turns out it fits on tightly and the clamp can hold it down without and slits cut into it. I took the pipe, sandblasted it (you could also prep it with a wire wheel or sand paper). Then I painted it with black header paint. Now it looks similar to the evap canister on the other side.

Total cost: $5.99 plus a little high-temp paint!

Pictures?

[eduardobelmonte]

I posted before how I got the JTD134 exhaust tip installed.
Please see pictures below.
Eduardo.