Seeking Don's wisdom.

[cestes]

After my new 2010, 1950 miles, bike sits for a few days it doesn't always start on the first try. Sometimes I would have to turn it on and off a few times and then it would start and run fine and start every time on first try the rest of the day. Today it wouldn't start for about 10 tries, also the out of gas icon is showing even though the strip says full, and the weather temperature reading has stopped working. Other then that Don the bike runs great ( this bike is so much fun).

I stopped at the dealer and they ran a test that said nothing was a miss. So I will have to drop it off next week. I was going to bring it by your house so it would be fixed right, but that won't work as I live in Alaska, thus this forum will have to do.

[ka5ysy]

SWAG: Something maybe unplugged or loose?

I would also suggest load checking the battery. If it is the original Exide, I would not rule out a weak battery. It would make the computer do really strange things. See the topic "Instant Battery Death" that a lot of us have had.

I also had a recent intermittent "no start" which was obviously not the battery, as I had just changed out the previous one. The neutral safety switch on the clutch lever was out of adjustment and when it got really hot sitting in the sun, no start. I put the bike in neutral and it worked fine until I got the switch sorted out.

If anybody has this problem, you will notice that the switch adjustment involves moving the switch in and out a bit to make it work, then tightening up the clamp. There is a small spring in mine that you can loose easily, so be careful if you remove the cover fully.

[deilenberger]

Given the multiple electronic oddities - as Ka5 sez - first thing that comes to mind is a weak battery, second something loose. There aren't a lot of electrical connectors on the bike, but unfortunately - the important ones are under the tank, so tank removal might be in your future.

Since there are quick disconnects it's not an awful job.. there is one bolt holding the tank on (left side, behind the plastic panels - which have to be removed and unscrewed from the tank), then it slides back and up. Disconnect electrical connector and two QD's. I believe the QD's are set so you can't plug the wrong ones into each other - but someone else's experience this past week (remember the new paint job that ended up with a non-running bike?) means at least some are not that way.

Then I'd unplug all connectors - spritz them with some electrical contact cleaner (the good stuff that leaves no residue) - and put them back together (dielectric-grease free.. IE - dry.)

Other possibilities for no start with no codes stored - there is one actual relay on the bike - the starter relay. When you say it won't start - am I correct in assuming the engine isn't turning over? If so - I'd be looking at the starter relay (which I believe from browsing RealOEM isn't awfully expensive.) The starter relay is right under the seat - the 2" square box sorta thingie, left side midway. At least make sure it's fully seated in it's socket. It probably also functions as a load-shed relay (although the ZFE may handle this) - which could account for the other electrical anomalies.

And of course there is the possibility of a kaput starter (if it's not cranking) - these aren't terribly high quality starters (I think ours are Bosch, but they could be Valeo which is a French term meaning "merde..")

Plus the ignition switch could be bad.

Need more info:

1. When key is turned - do all normal lights/cluster come on and the cluster go through it's dance? Even when it doesn't "start"
2. Is engine cranking over or no-crank?

[cestes]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. No start in my case was with no turn over. The cluster did its dance and then when it would fire it was instant as in strong battery.

[ka5ysy]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. No start in my case was with no turn over. The cluster did its dance and then when it would fire it was instant as in strong battery.

Check your ground wire from the battery to the chassis, and then check the battery positive cable from the battery back to the relay box and be certain those are tight and no corrosion showing. Your description of the battery being back instantly is a perfect description of a loose or corroded battery connection someplace.

[red baron]

My two cents worth. Since it is a new bike why do you want to fool with it. Bring it back to the dealer and if they are unable to fix it ask for a new bike.
Red Baron

[cestes]

My two cents worth. Since it is a new bike why do you want to fool with it. Bring it back to the dealer and if they are unable to fix it ask for a new bike.
Red Baron
My two cents worth. Since it is a new bike why do you want to fool with it. Bring it back to the dealer and if they are unable to fix it ask for a new bike.
Red Baron

I agree with your point, but I don't have alot of faith with the tech's working on my stuff whatever it may be (I've had things come back worse off then when they went in). I figured that advise from the guys on this forum would be much more valuable to me than I was going to get from the tech (after all you guys are R1200R specialist). Case in point: So I took it in to the dealers today, and they got it all to work, so I asked what was the problem. Answer, " Not sure, but it is working now."

The more I learn here the better I will be at doing by own trouble shooting. If the problem comes back, the tank is coming off. Thanks again for the advise.