I have a deposit on this bike. What do you think?

[iowabeakster]

So what is the safe way to do that?

Just don't be overzealous on the brake tests at lower speeds, until you know what to expect. These bikes (ABS or not) have very strong brakes. I would suggest a series of stops with increasing pressure to get used to them.

If you apply a death grip on the handlebar lever at 15 MPH on dry pavement, it will bring you to a complete stop...very quickly. I would describe it as fairly harsh, and very abrupt. This might lead to a tip-over, if you are not prepared. The handle bar lever applies both front and rear brakes.

Jamming the foot pedal at 15 MPH will feel strange. The foot pedal only operates the rear brake. The ABS will kick in and braking will be limited, and there will be some clunking as the brake catches and releases. You won't skid, and braking will feel vague.

On the other hand, a panic stop from highway speed (65+ MPH) is just awe-inspiring.

If the ABS is working correctly, the start-up should go like this:
Watch the two small dummy lights on the instrument console, as you turn on the key. You must not hold either brake at this time. If you do, the brake system cannot complete its diagnostic test. The brake lights are the two bigger red ones that are side by side. When you turn on the key, the dummy lights will turn on and the ABS light will flash at 4hz for a second or two.

The other light should go out pretty quickly. If it does not, there might be a weak battery, or burned out bulb.

The ABS system will complete its test, and the flashing ABS light will slow down to flash at 1hz. Then, it is time to start the bike. Feel free to use the brakes now, too.

The ABS light will continue to flash slowly until you pull away. After you reach about 3-4 MPH, the bike will finish the test of the wheel sensors and the ABS light should stop flashing. If either light remains lit or is flashing, there is some sort of issue.

[PJBrendel]

Thanks for the caution Iowa. I will do several runs, breaking progressivly harder. I had an R1200C with abs four years ago but did not remember the sequence of the abs initiation lights. I will bring that with me.
Paul

[R1150Rclean]

Thanks, for the advice RClean. TL, I was thinking I would break hard from about 40 mph and then when I got down to about 15 mph try to lock up the back wheel, then I would try the same for the front wheel on the next run. Hopefully the ABS will kick in and it won't "lock up" I want to have enough momentum so that I don't come to a dead stop when I apply the death grip. Hope it works! Full gear of course!

Paul

This is from my Clymer manual for 2002-2005 R1150R, I do not have ABS on my bike.
First the bike should have ABS II with a Bremo "labeled" front caliper. Every time the bike starts up it does a self test. Start bike up, both ABS warning lights should flash simultaneously (one light is labeled "brake failure", the other light has a triangle with a ! inside). As soon as the bike reaches 3 mph the warning lights should stop flashing indicating the ABS is working properly. If the warning lights remain on all the time or flash "alternately", there is a fault in the system and the ABS has been deactivated. A low battery voltage can cause the lights to flash alternately; stop the bike and turn the ignition key off and on, if the ABS lights flash "simultaneously" the ABS "was" deactivated and has now been returned to normal operation (if they still flash alternately the bike has to be taken into the dealer for service $$$). Low brake fluid can also cause the ABS system to not work.

[iowabeakster]

Did the early models have ABS II, or do they all have the iABS system?

My 2004 has the iABS, which works as I described.

In a review of the 2002 R it says,

Now, punch the speedo needle into triple digits, check the mirrors for slackers and grab a large hand/foot full of brake. Once your eyeballs retreat to their sockets, it's clear that this chunk of technology will take some serious getting used to. While two fingers on the lever simulate an F-14 carrier landing, normal braking is a one-finger thing--wet pavement or dry--with none of the spastic violence BMW's second-generation ABS inflicted when its antilock computer kicked in

[TicTac50]

Once your eyeballs retreat to their sockets, it's clear that this chunk of technology will take some serious getting used to. While two fingers on the lever simulate an F-14 carrier landing, normal braking is a one-finger thing--wet pavement or dry--with none of the spastic violence BMW's second-generation ABS inflicted when its antilock computer kicked in

This test probably can be done very easily on R1150RA.
I performed similar test "unwillingly" on my 2006LT in the pouring rain and 40 degree temperature.
It does take a little while for the eyeballs to retreat to their sockets.
And the whining noise from the ABS will stay in your ears for sometimes.
Not to mention the panoramic view of you whole live in a split second.
But at the end, when you put both of your feet on the ground, you will feel very very goooood.

[PJBrendel]

I will bring a change of underware.

[PJBrendel]

Well I didn't buy it, although now I want one even more. Took a long test ride and the bike preformed pretty well, stalled a few times getting off in first but that was probably my fault. The engine didn't sound as smooth as I remember my R1200C had sounded and they said they had tuned it. The valve covers were painted (are they supossed to be?) and I couldn't remember if they were supposed to be or not since on the C they were chrome. Also there were two black zip straps on the front and rear of the paralever boot and I didn't know if they were supposed to be there. Overall the bike looked better in the pictures, not that I need a mint bike but there was a little more rust and corrosion in some areas that could not be seen in the pictures. Some part were brand new and some were showing their age and it was there was not a paper trail of maintenance and the dealer was at least the third owner. It's still available, and it may very well be worth the price, but I think I need to become more familiar with the R before I buy one. The brakes are truly amazing. I did have a great ride today so I'm not all that upset about the deposit. I will end up with one of these eventually but I wasn’t 100% sure today so I didn't bite.
Thanks again for all the help. I will continue looking.

Paul

[iowabeakster]

The zip ties on the boot are factory fitment, nothing to worry about.

It is too bad about the rust, I am sure that you can find an R that is in the condition you would be happy with. The good news is that you can look for one with the best (and fastest) color...Dark Ferro!

Here's my Dark Ferro baby (with a couple small cosmetic changes).

[Boxer]

Kirk, your tank sure looks blue-er in this picture. You sure thats the same bike?

[iowabeakster]

Phil,

At Hungry Mother, you mentioned that you thought that I had gotten a different bike from the one you saw up here. I am pretty sure that the bike in both pictures is the one I bought new on Aug 11th, 2004.

The repeated alien abductions might have me confused though. Repainting the bike and changing my memory is easily accomplished with their superior technology. Now, I am starting to wonder.

I hope they don't steal that Bill Mayer seat, and cause me to forget how much better it is on long rides.

[iowabeakster]

Phil,

I just got my registration and sticker in the mail.

It says... COLOR: BLUE