simply starting up

[julia rose]

being a newbie to my bmw i can ask all the dumb questions... i need to check that i am starting properly. i push the choke lever up then start the bike and then drop it right down after 30 secs and the bike cuts out. am i doing this wrong? it will work if i take longer to warm up. something i am missing as the bike should be running well?
should i have to use the choke when it is warm day? on my cruiser i needed to always start with the choke so that is why i am asking.

julia

[mcollect]

Assuming you are already riding off I can't see what is wrong. On the off chance the bike is "warming up"; that would be your problem. I get on the bike helmet and gloves on, engage the fast idle start the bike, ride off. After about 1/2 mile I can turn off the fast idle as I am riding and giving it some throttle.

[taosports]

Julia,

As Michael pointed out, the "choke" is in reality a fast idle switch. You could leave it on all day if you like. It does not change the air/fuel mixture. I follow the same procedure as Michael suggested.

[MikeCam]

Depending on your gas quality, valve adjustment, TBS synchronization, TPS settings, plug quality, coils, battery strength, and myriad other matters, the bike should reach a steady idle speed of 1050-1100 rpm within seconds (0-60 seconds) rather than minutes of start up.

As Mike stated, start, get on and ride off is the expected sequence, however, some bikes might like a few seconds to stabilize the idle speed. Keep the high idle setting up until it is steady (around 1500 rpm for high idle), then drop it. If it still stalls, then check your valves, TBS synch and cables for proper adjustment. If it still doesn't smooth out, get better gas, then check plugs and coils, next TPS settings, battery voltage under load, alternator belt tension, alternator output, etc etc etc.

Obviously, at some point you may need to turn to an expert (service desk) rather than do it yourself.

[julia rose]

okay here is what i am doing that might be wrong. i am starting the bike with the choke lever up, waiting 30 secs to 60 seconds and the pushing it down ..not riding with it up. so then it stalls. so it sounds like i just start riding with it up. and then just watch the rmps then to know when to push it down (turn it off). (all this up and down..sex is much easier than this.)
j

[Boxer]

so it sounds like i just start riding with it up. and then just watch the rmps then to know when to push it down

You got it! There are actually two high idle positions. The one that stays on after you start and you have to manually push it down. The other is what you hold up as you start it, then when you release it it drops down to the other high idle setting.

Once again. It is not a choke.

[julia rose]

thanks i'll have a closer look a the switch itself next ride and now that i understand it, i think it should be fine.
J

[Airman]

My high idle lever has gotten hard to operate, so I quit using it. Temps are running in the mid 50's when I leave work so I fire it up, hold the throttle open for a few seconds.Iit will run a little rough @ about 950 rpm, then as it warms up it will settle at the notmal 1100 rpm. I will sometimes goof around for a minute or two before roaring away. As the others said, no warmup required.

[Boxer]

My high idle lever has gotten hard to operate

Airman, you either have gunk up there around that little ball bearing in the switch, keeping it from moving freely as it should, or you have gunk down in the cable junction box impeding the movement of that high idle cable. Both are a real beetch to get to to clean out, with the switch at the handlebars being the slightly easier one to work on. If you DO decide to take that switch apart, keep a big white bucket hung underneath for when you drop the tiny parts (metal ball beaing, small spring, tiny plastic pieces). Clean it all out, put it back together and lube with some silicone spray lightly. If it's still hard to move, then you go down to the junction box. That's a different story. Tank removal, battery removal, battery tray loosening and lifting...AFTER you have taken the cables loose at the four ends (throttle grip, high idle, TB left, TB right). The junction box has a spring clip release on the right side and it just slides out to the right side. More than likely yours is filled with dirt, mud, bugs, squirrell fur...etc.)You can just blow it out, spray it with silicone spray and slide it back in, but the really smart thing to do is take it all the way out and see how the cables fit in, then put them back in and lube it all before sliding the biox back in VERY carefully.