BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I will have to do my 12k service soon. Judging from the manual it seems I would need to do this:

-valves
-synchronize throttle cables
-oil and filter
-air filter
-check the obvious plus the alternator belt

Brake fluid was done last year with the recall, and transmission and shaft lube were done in July this year together with a warranty repair. Am I missing something else?

Does it make sense to change the oil and then do the valves a bit later? Can the amount of oil lost be neglected?

I read about 'computer updates'. Is this to be understood as in 'firmware upgrade' and are there any applicable for the 2007 model?

Thanks

Recall should have done fluids in your front brake. Did you do the rear at the same time?

My rear brake pads were cooked at 13K.

Good luck.

Nick

You will lose a negligible amount of oil during valve adjustment, a teaspoon or two...

As Nick suggested - check the rear pads. Mine were done at about 15-16,000 miles and again at about 31,000 miles. Fronts are still excellent at 33k.. go figure.

I wouldn't worry about the oil lost - you won't even see a change in the oil level. And if the recall was done as per the book, they only bled the front circuit, not both. Be worth doing both actually, and I highly recommend Speedbleeders - makes the job SO easy.. (Ebay vendors carry them, as do some other on-line vendors, ping me if you can't find them.)

Throttle balance is ONLY done after a very careful valve adjustment. My WAG is you will find the balance perfect off-idle, and you can ignore the balance at idle since there isn't a damn thing you can do about it (and it will vary since the stepper motor air-balance bypasses are dynamic, and not locked to each other.)

Alternator belt is a non-issue. Expect 36-50,000 miles from it. What should be done is the rear drive should be drained and refilled. BMW now calls for this at every 12k interval service. I'd suggest BMW 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube. The quantity has changed since most books were published - it's now 180cc's (mls).

For good DIY's on ALL of these - see the hexhead DIY forum on the BMW-MOA forums. You do need to be a member to gain access to the DIY forums.

Best,

deilenberger wrote:What should be done is the rear drive should be drained and refilled. BMW now calls for this at every 12k interval service. I'd suggest BMW 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube. The quantity has changed since most books were published - it's now 180cc's (mls).

I might have to talk to my dealer again, but is there reason to believe they would not have changed the rear drive oil when they did work on the clutch and replaced the transmission seals? Doesn't sound likely to me.

For good DIY's on ALL of these - see the hexhead DIY forum on the BMW-MOA forums. You do need to be a member to gain access to the DIY forums.

I've snooped around there in the past, and yes, it's a great source. I'm more concerned about what needs to be done. The BMW DVD is even for my German mind too user unfriendly.

Thanks all, by the way.

deilenberger wrote: Alternator belt is a non-issue. Expect 36-50,000 miles from it.

55,000 miles on mine.... I carry a spare for the day it fails.

YYMV

hjsbmw wrote: I might have to talk to my dealer again, but is there reason to believe they would not have changed the rear drive oil when they did work on the clutch and replaced the transmission seals? Doesn't sound likely to me.

If it isn't listed on the bill - it wasn't done. Promise..

deilenberger wrote:

hjsbmw wrote: I might have to talk to my dealer again, but is there reason to believe they would not have changed the rear drive oil when they did work on the clutch and replaced the transmission seals? Doesn't sound likely to me.

If it isn't listed on the bill - it wasn't done. Promise..

Well, it won't hurt then, if for nothing else, it's practice in getting to know the bike better.
So I see there is a spline to be lubed in the rear. Isn't there on in the front also?

And, regarding speed bleeders: are those also helpful when using a vacuum pump (Mitevac or whatever it's called)? It sounds as if they apply when using the traditional open valve and pump brake approach.

deilenberger wrote:For good DIY's on ALL of these - see the hexhead DIY forum on the BMW-MOA forums. You do need to be a member to gain access to the DIY forums.

Hey Don, any chance of updating the article on brake bleeding over there to include our bikes?

Thanks,
Bill

ShinySideUp wrote:

deilenberger wrote:For good DIY's on ALL of these - see the hexhead DIY forum on the BMW-MOA forums. You do need to be a member to gain access to the DIY forums.

Hey Don, any chance of updating the article on brake bleeding over there to include our bikes?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill,

Since the one I wrote was doing it on the R12R...

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38825

I think I did already..

Thanks, Don. Excellent article (as usual!) and I'm glad we have that link in this forum.

The article I found was for other models. The final post was from you and said:

"NOTE - the procedure outlined by Luis is for models with the integral brake reservoir on the front brake master cylinder. Other models such as the R1200R and R1200GS use a different design for the front cylinder, and the bleed/flush process is slightly different. When we have an opportunity, the difference will be documented."

Maybe linking to the current R1200R article there would make sense for us search-challenged blokes.

(Sheesh, says Don, I have to WRITE the articles and then tell them WHERE to find them!)

Question: At what point in the process does it make sense to install the Speedbleeders? I'd think before you do anything else, so there's no pressure on them and before you remove the reservoir caps so the fluid doesn't just run out by gravity when you remove the OEM nipples.

Mine are on order and I sprung for their nifty brake fluid collection sack, attached to a hose and you can just invert it into an oil recycling container when done. Otherwise I just know I'm gonna knock that empty beer bottle all over the garage!

deilenberger wrote: Since the one I wrote was doing it on the R12R...

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38825

I think I did already..

Good article! Will this completely "flush the ABS system"? I have a faint memory of my dealer mentioning you have to hook up the bike to the service computer in order to open the valves.

ShinySideUp wrote:Thanks, Don. Excellent article (as usual!) and I'm glad we have that link in this forum.

The article I found was for other models. The final post was from you and said:

"NOTE - the procedure outlined by Luis is for models with the integral brake reservoir on the front brake master cylinder. Other models such as the R1200R and R1200GS use a different design for the front cylinder, and the bleed/flush process is slightly different. When we have an opportunity, the difference will be documented."

Maybe linking to the current R1200R article there would make sense for us search-challenged blokes.

(Sheesh, says Don, I have to WRITE the articles and then tell them WHERE to find them!)

Indeed. I try to assume a certain level of consciousness on the part of the reader - probably a mistake..

Question: At what point in the process does it make sense to install the Speedbleeders? I'd think before you do anything else, so there's no pressure on them and before you remove the reservoir caps so the fluid doesn't just run out by gravity when you remove the OEM nipples.

ASAP.. right away sounds good to me. It will make retracting the pistons easier, and that's pretty much step 1 (or 2..)

Mine are on order and I sprung for their nifty brake fluid collection sack, attached to a hose and you can just invert it into an oil recycling container when done. Otherwise I just know I'm gonna knock that empty beer bottle all over the garage!

Sounds like a good plan. I always tape the hose into the bottle so it can't get get away.

hjsbmw wrote:Good article! Will this completely "flush the ABS system"? I have a faint memory of my dealer mentioning you have to hook up the bike to the service computer in order to open the valves.

Yes. There is even a BMW service directive on how it is not necessary to hook up the bike to the service computer when doing this service.

With the speed bleeders installed - if you just want to do a very quick fluid flush and don't bother retracting the pistons in the calipers - you can do it in about 5 minutes.. I'd suggest doing that sort of flush every other year, and a full flush (pistons retracted) on the 2 year interval.

Okay, so next question: one of the rocker arms' play was a little loose, so I adjusted it. Re-torquing the 15mm cylinder head not according to specs, 20Nm, then 2x90 degrees felt very tight. I used a torque wrench for the 20Nm. Giving it the additional 2x90 felt scary tight. I could rotate the nut by a total of 180 degrees, but frankly not without thinking "this is going to break".
I am wondering if this is the proper torquing procedure when doing all 4 head nuts diagonally, but not if the other three are already tight. Not sure what to do. Use a different torque value for just the one nut or loosen all four and re-torque to specs?

It's actually correct and how it is done. It does feel like it's VERY tight, but the only time the head nuts should all be backed off is for the 600 mile service, or if the head is being removed.

deilenberger wrote:It's actually correct and how it is done. It does feel like it's VERY tight, but the only time the head nuts should all be backed off is for the 600 mile service, or if the head is being removed.

Thanks! I'll leave it alone then. All four rocker arms are close within the same tolerance, 0.15mm-0.2mm. I only had to do one side to get it there.

So I got the valve adjustment worked out. It took me quite some time, and I had to do it twice. My first attempt worsened the engine's running. Here are some experiences I'd like to share:

-I followed the BMWOA DIY pages. If you haven't worked on this engine yet, but wish to do so, I recommend going there first.

-This engine is by far more responsive to nuances in the valve adjustment than other motorcycles I've had. I adjusted the valves a bit loose on the first attempt and thus increased the engine vibrations. Getting it equal for both valves that share a rocker seems important also.

-It doesn't hurt to check yourself. The right side rocker arm bolts were extremely over-tightened, either by the dealer or the factory. The play on both rocker arms was loose. Although within specs, wiggling them around seemed noisy (clack clack).

I have not done the cable synchronization yet due to today's rain, but a brief test ride last night revealed that the engine is more quiet now and the tank shakes less than when I got he bike (used and dealer maintained).

Thanks to all your input!

Yes, Harald, the first time requires a bit of fussing around and some frustration.

I've done mine several times now and have it down. I found that the wrench-drop method on the DVD is fairly good, but not as accurate as just feeling for the same amount of fairly firm drag on the feeler gauges, with all 4 gauges in place to take up any slack.

I'm never afraid to undo the locknut and start over if I don't get it quite right. It's actually become a fun puzzle for me rather than a frustrating chore. Taking one's time and being in right frame of mind helps a lot.

I've got it down so both intake and exhaust valves on both cylinders have the same amount of drag, AFTER tightening the lock nuts. When that happens, she purrs!

Also, as a mechanic told me one time, don't aim for actual tight drag on the gauges: better to hear your valves than smell them!

Bill

ShinySideUp wrote:better to hear your valves than smell them!

I've not heard that one before, but something tells me it will be in the back of my mind as i perform the next servicing.