PRE-RIDE -- Checking Rear Wheel Lugs
Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:13 am
EDIT: Usual request for corrections and critique....
Checking rear wheel for usability (w/o torque wrench):
First: Look the tech/service manager in the eye and ask - "What torque did you tighten the lugs?" His demeanor and answer indicate whether he knows what is what at all. [The correct answer is 105Nm or 77 ft lbs using a shop- torque wrench that was calibrated that morning against a known standard torque instrument of industrial design and SAE/EURO standards.] (I am exaggerating that part!)
1. Bike on center stand. Neutral transmission. Key off.
2. Rotate wheel by hand and observe for free rotation and for absence of any side to side wobble (apparent to the naked, untrained eye as a distinct movement of the edge rotational line of tire 'moving' in and out as the wheel rotates). Also check for 'fit' of brake caliper over rotor and absence of any grabbiness as wheel rotates. A fair amount of drag is common but it is consistent across the range of rotation.
3. From left side of bike (can side) grab wheel in both hands at 9-10 o'clock and 2-3 o'clock position and shake, pull, bend, twist, etc to determine that wheel is not wobbly (technical term there). Be cautious not to pull the bike off the center stand (forward or sideways). Listen for 'clunking' noises which indicate the wheel is not firmly seated.
4. Visually inspect lug bolts to determine that each appears fully tightened and all appear to be same depth into wheel. Hand check for tightness by trying to turn the bolts counter-clockwise. They should not budge even a little. Visually inspect opposite side of wheel to determine that brake pads are properly positioned over rotor and that wheel hub is fully seated onto Final Drive housing.
That's about all you can do as a customer without your own tools on hand.
Checking rear wheel for usability (w/o torque wrench):
First: Look the tech/service manager in the eye and ask - "What torque did you tighten the lugs?" His demeanor and answer indicate whether he knows what is what at all. [The correct answer is 105Nm or 77 ft lbs using a shop- torque wrench that was calibrated that morning against a known standard torque instrument of industrial design and SAE/EURO standards.] (I am exaggerating that part!)
1. Bike on center stand. Neutral transmission. Key off.
2. Rotate wheel by hand and observe for free rotation and for absence of any side to side wobble (apparent to the naked, untrained eye as a distinct movement of the edge rotational line of tire 'moving' in and out as the wheel rotates). Also check for 'fit' of brake caliper over rotor and absence of any grabbiness as wheel rotates. A fair amount of drag is common but it is consistent across the range of rotation.
3. From left side of bike (can side) grab wheel in both hands at 9-10 o'clock and 2-3 o'clock position and shake, pull, bend, twist, etc to determine that wheel is not wobbly (technical term there). Be cautious not to pull the bike off the center stand (forward or sideways). Listen for 'clunking' noises which indicate the wheel is not firmly seated.
4. Visually inspect lug bolts to determine that each appears fully tightened and all appear to be same depth into wheel. Hand check for tightness by trying to turn the bolts counter-clockwise. They should not budge even a little. Visually inspect opposite side of wheel to determine that brake pads are properly positioned over rotor and that wheel hub is fully seated onto Final Drive housing.
That's about all you can do as a customer without your own tools on hand.