Oil Change Procedure (Not Safe for Dial-up)

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MikeCam
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Oil Change Procedure (Not Safe for Dial-up)

Postby MikeCam » Wed Jun 14, 2006 10:24 am

Editor's note: Post challenges to this technique so I don't inadvertantly give out bad info. Thanks.

Roadster Oil Change

Tools and Supplies Needed

3/8" socket drive 6" or longer
8mm Hex Socket (3/8") or 8mm Hex Allen Wrench (6" or longer - in tool kit)
Oil Filter Wrench 76mm 14 flutes (aka BMW Filter Wrench)

1 catch basin for used oil (1 gallon capacity//5-6" high not higher)
4 quarts/liters good motor oil 10W40//15W40//20W50 dino or synth
1 crush washer (optional)
1 BMW oil filter for Oilhead engines or substitute i.e. PF-53 (NOT FRAM)

3 clean shop towels
1 old newspaper
1 automotive funnel
1 old laundry soap container (1 gallon or more)
1 pair gloves (disposable//washable) (Optional)

Step 1. Lay out all tools and supplies in your work area - flat, level, with enough room to move around and where a small oil stain is not a crisis.

Image

Step 2. Go for a ride. 15-20 miles-get that oil hot and runny. ATGATT

Step 3. Park over newspaper. Bike on sidestand 5-10 minutes. Centerstand. Remove the oil fill plug (top of left cylinder head). Clean and examine the rubber 'O' ring of the cap and of the filler hole. Set aside in a safe place.
Step 3a. Position the catch basin under the drain plug. (Center of lowest part of engine. Forward of centerstand and rearward of exhaust headers.)
Step 3b. Wearing gloves because everything is now HOT, lay on your back with your head toward the front of the bike along the left side. Your head is 12 o'clock and your feet are 6 o'clock. Counter-clockwise is from your knees to your right elbow (6 to 3). Remember this!

Image

Step 4. Remove Drain Plug. Using either the 3/8" drive w/8mm socket or the 8mm Hex Allen wrench, position the head into the drain plug with the tail extending toward 6 o'clock. Loosen by pulling the wrench toward you from 6 to 3 o'clock (knees to right elbow). Be careful not to pull the bike over on top of you. That would be bad. Takes a good grip and a strong pull to loosen the first bit, then it gets easier. As the drain plug is about to fall out, HOT oil will drip past it. Catch the plug before it falls into the catch basin and get clear of the draining oil.
Step 4a. Examine the plug for metal shavings, crud, discolored oil. Sniff it. If anything seems wrong ask for an opinion. (Small, tiny, barely there metal glints are common. Dark oil is common. Milky oil, watery oil, multicolored oil (coke brown and black not fully mixed together, for instance) oil with solid particles and bad smelling oil bear questioning. Take a break and post on the board.
Step 4b. Wipe the drain plug clean with a shop towel. Examine the crush washer. Decide if you want to reuse it or replace it. Set drain plug and crush washer aside in a safe place.

Step 5. Remove oil filter. Located in front center of engine casing, just behind header pipes (on bottom). Using the oil filter wrench and the 3/8 drive handle, gently turn counter-clockwise to remove the filter. Same as above: head at 12; feet at 6; handle extending rearward; pull from knees to elbow - 6 to 3).
Step 5a. Oil will drip past as you loosen this. Place the catch basin so it catches this drip as well as the drain plug drip. Be careful. Dispose of old filter in plastic shopping bag and tie off the ends to prevent leakage.
Step 5b. Using the shop rag, clean the inside of the oil filter housing well. Make certain the rubber 'O' ring came out with the filter or fish it out now.

Stand up and take a break. Let the oil flow and drain. Go get a drink. Wash your hands. Take a deep breath. You are halfway finished. Hard part's over.

Step 6. Replace new filter. Place a small amount of clean oil around the rubber 'O' ring of the new filter.

Image

Step 6a. Place the filter into the housing well and 'find' the threaded fitting by feel. Gently start turning the filter onto the fitting. Use the wrench if your fingers cannot turn it readily. Tighten hand tight, then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the wrench. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Firm but not total strength.

Step 7. Replace drain plug. With old or new crush washer in place, tighten to firm plus 1/4 turn. There is a torque value for this but don't worry about that now. Firm plus 1/4 turn of your wrench.
Step 7a. Wipe the underside of the engine, the filter housing well, the header pipes and anything else that got oily.
Step 7b. Check your work - oil filter installed correctly? drain plug installed correctly?

Step 8. Add fresh oil. Using the funnel and your 4 quarts/liters - fill the oil fill with 3.75 quarts/liters. Don't sweat the exact measurement. Use about 3.75 quarts/liters. [3.75 quarts will probably do it just fine.]
Step 8a. Replace the oil fill plug and insure it is properly seated.
Step 8b. Clean up any spills.

Step 9. Start your engine. Watch the oil pressure light go out. Listen. Look to insure no leaks, seeps, weeps, or flows are present at the drain plug, filter housing, or filler cap. Stop engine.

Take another break. Drink. Kick back. Straighten clutter and start putting tools away. You are mostly finished.

Step 10. Examine oil sight glass for proper level anywhere in the visible glass. Anywhere.

Go for a ride. Congratulations.

Oh and another thing. Pour the old oil from the catch basin into the laundry jug and figure out how you are going to properly dispose of it and the dirty filter. Then do that.

Models courtesy of the SamCam Modeling Agency, Barbie Division. Many thanks to Brianna and Nikki.
Last edited by MikeCam on Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:01 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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HiOSilver
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Postby HiOSilver » Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:24 pm

MikeCam,

Great writeup! I do my oil changes exactly the same way with 3 minor differences that are probably not important.

First, I fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. The thinking is that you don't tend to see the sag in oil pressure as the filter is filled when you first start the engine.

Second, I do torque the drain plug to specs. I would bet your method is just as good.

Third, I add 3 and 3/4 qts of oil before startup and top off as required. I am more concerned about overfilling than being a tad short.

Good detailed instructions!
-Chris
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Postby OneShot » Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:44 pm

Excellent write-up! The instructions are clear, detailed, and follow a logical progression with plenty of background information and warnings. Looks like something I learned in my technical communication class.(a.k.a. the engineers guide to communicating with the rest of the world) I am getting ready to do my first oil change and valve lash adjustment in a few weeks, so this helps. Thank you very much.

Cheers!
-Nelson
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MikeCam
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Cleaned Up

Postby MikeCam » Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:01 pm

Made some changes to the described tedchnique and the amount of oil...3.75 quarts is most correct.
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Postby chibbert » Sat Aug 12, 2006 3:07 pm

A valuable lesson indeed - thanks for the good description mike!

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PF-53?

Postby OU812 » Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:41 pm

Is this a # that I can cross-ref. with other suppliers? I am tired of the big-bucks to the dealer.My buddy owns an oil change place, and he said he needs a mfg. name to cross ref. with. :cry:

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Postby toner87 » Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:53 pm

I googled PF53 and came up with AC Delco as the manufacturer. Is that right? Great instructions and pictures, by the way! :D

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Postby OneShot » Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:07 pm

Cross reference numbers
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=1142

Cheers!
-Nelson

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Postby sjbmw » Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:59 pm

Excellentamundo.

Oh, a ratchet fell on your crew chief.

I smell a workman's comp case.
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