BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I have had my bike since October, and through the winter in CO, had to always use the "choke" upon first start of the day to go to work, and again when coming home. It's been in the 80's/90's most of the summer, and I still have to use the "choke". I recently changed the oil, and have confirmed it's at the correct level. Just checked my valves this last weekend. The battery is 1 year old and I just put it on my charger last night to be sure it was full. I have not done a TB sync, as I don't have the tools currently, but intend to.

Is this normal? Once it's started, I can run down the road 2 blocks and shut it off, then it runs fine and idles great. I have a long ride coming up this weekend, so just want to be sure I'm not overlooking something major.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

It's normal. "Warm" for the motor isn't same as warm for us.

never use it on mine

IT IS NOT A CHOKE!
It's only a fast idle lever that opens the throttle a small amount. The EFI takes care of the required richer mixture using 2 temp sensors. One on the airbox lid and the other on top of the crankcase reading the flowing oil temperature going to the oil coolers or returned to the crankcase until it does (at 172F)

I use mine all year too.

use it to start every morning, and leave it open for a minute or two.... like Rob says, not a choke. Just opens throttle slightly.

Since my fast idle lever has become a little sticky with age, I don't use it. For cold starts I just manually roll on the throttle as I hit the starter. Works just fine.

Thanks for the replies. My bike the last few mornings has required 2 starts. Start 1 doesn't take, sputters out. Start 2, just fine. I am waiting for all systems to stop whirring. Another thing to note, on the first start, with the "choke" on half way, I try to roll on the throttle ever so slightly, it dies immediately.

As for the replies to this not being a choke, please note the quotes I put around the word carefully. I am fully aware this is a fast idle lever, but, "choke" lever is more familiar with all riders who have been around any carbureted engine.

Again, thanks for all the replies! I believe a TB sync is still in order, just to smooth things out a bit.

Cheers!

Try rolling on the throttle gently WITHOUT using the enrichener lever at all. Can't guarantee it'll work, but it does for me.....

It's not a choke. ....And for the poster who has stopped using yours because it is sticky. You just need to take it apart and clean it good. But be VERY careful not to lose the little spring...which resembles a ball point pen spring.

Boxer wrote:It's not a choke. ....And for the poster who has stopped using yours because it is sticky. You just need to take it apart and clean it good. But be VERY careful not to lose the little spring...which resembles a ball point pen spring.

Sorry, I meant to refer to it as the fast idle lever. And thanks for the cleaning tip, but I find I really don't need to use it at all....

motorcycle_monkey wrote:Thanks for the replies. My bike the last few mornings has required 2 starts. Start 1 doesn't take, sputters out. Start 2, just fine. I am waiting for all systems to stop whirring. Another thing to note, on the first start, with the "choke" on half way, I try to roll on the throttle ever so slightly, it dies immediately.

As for the replies to this not being a choke, please note the quotes I put around the word carefully. I am fully aware this is a fast idle lever, but, "choke" lever is more familiar with all riders who have been around any carbureted engine.

Again, thanks for all the replies! I believe a TB sync is still in order, just to smooth things out a bit.

Cheers!

What year R1150R... 2004+ Twin-spark? I mention this because faulty stick coil can influence starting behavior, as can spark plugs.

It's a 2002. I am thinking the plugs need replaced. I had them out when I did my valves a couple of weeks ago, and it got worse since then.

MM,

Your bike is performing exactly like mine for the past 13 years. Under 50 degrees, the fast idle is required a little longer.

When you start the bike, put the fast idle switch at half way for about a minute, minute and a half.
I have found that the idle switch at half (with no hand on it) will warm up the bike in the time it takes to put on a jacket, helmet, and gloves.
After getting on the bike, turning it off before pulling away, and it should be at proper idle.

All bets are off in colder temps. The bike is notoriously cold blooded, and will need a strong battery to start if its really cold.

So, in the last month, the first start of the morning, fresh from a warm (70+ degrees) garage, the bike takes 3-5 tries to get it to finally stay running. I just changed the plugs last night, and, same issue this morning. Would a throttle body sync be the culprit? I have tried no fast idle, half, full in many different sequences. The problem seems to be getting worse. When I leave work, after 8-10 hours, the bike may take 2 tries, but seems to kick over easily. What could I be missing? Once it starts, it'll start by barely touching the starter button for the rest of the day if I am riding randomly. I'm at a loss.

Cheers!

my bikes been pretty cold blooded since I bought it. Synced throttle bodies or no(Which I need to do) seems normal to me.

roll on the throttle as I start. or pull fast idle ALL the way up to top... then leave fast idle on until I get to the first stop sign, then its fine. Its a pretty simple FI system. It just needs a lil help on a cold start.

SOmetimes Ill forget and leave the fast idle on all day. it doesnt hurt anything. youll just notice when its warm later, it idles at like 2000....