Brocken latch on BMW Panniers

[makia]

Hi
I have R1150R 2002 with ROX BMW panniers the latch that locks to hold the pannier on has broken has anyone had any experience replacing one of these latches or any idea where I could get the latch from? I think you drill the rivets out with a 1/8 th drill bit.
Many Thanks

Nick

[omg1010]

Get the parts from your dealer:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... &lang=enUS

Or look for a second hand piece at ebay or check the well known salvage companies.

Best regards
Oliver

[jas]

Ebay has a replacement unit available. it is used but they claim it to be perfect. Includes All necessary rivets. They are asking $140, which sounds kinda high.

[Airman]

Ebay has a replacement unit available. it is used but they claim it to be perfect. Includes All necessary rivets. They are asking $140, which sounds kinda high.

Nearly double for a used one. I've broken both locks, one is a used replacement, the other is fabricated. Since we had the broken piece, my HD tech friend was able to weld up a new hook out of T6 Aluminum. (Not a job for beginners)

[goomicoo]

I just got one on fleebay for under 50 bucks brand new in the bag.
Unfortunately he only had one!

[Airman]

I just got one on fleebay for under 50 bucks brand new in the bag.
Unfortunately he only had one!

I would buy two or three at that price !!

[Airman]

Finally got my custom latch photo loose from Photo Bucket.

[Buckster]

Nice work! I'll call you if mine break!

[Airman]

Nice work! I'll call you if mine break!

I wish my HD friend had made a dozen of them. The original hook is actually made of pot metal. I believe the first one I broke was the result of riding with the bag out of that locating "foot" allowing the whole thing to flex against the pot metal latch. The second one, I don't know...Just a bad design. if you ever have the module out, you'll see why people just replace them. The whole thing is riveted together and is difficult to work on. You can see from my unit that it's possible, but it's time consuming.

[Canyon Runner]

Hey! Sorry for the ignorance here, but a few confirmations needed:

I have the same issue on a 2005 R1150R.

It looks to me, if I was looking to replace the latch, that I am looking to replace the "multi purpose box" in BMW parlance. Correct?

It also looks to me like the removal and replacement is a rivet removal operation.

How much of a wind up is that to accomplish? I am not set up really well with a workshop right now in my apartment, but if it is a no brainer, I might dive in.

Looks like if I go the dealer route, they are talking about around $200 for the multi purpose box. I understand that the box type is linked to the year of the case... I bought the bike and cases used, already set up. How do I know the year of the case?

Also... is anyone riding with the latch broken, but using one of the bag retainer pin configurations that Cycle Rob and others have posted? Not sure if that set up is secure in and of itself, but it would be cheaper for sure.

Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!!

-K

[Airman]

Hey! Sorry for the ignorance here, but a few confirmations needed:

I have the same issue on a 2005 R1150R.

Looks like if I go the dealer route, they are talking about around $200 for the multi purpose box. I understand that the box type is linked to the year of the case... I bought the bike and cases used, already set up. How do I know the year of the case?

Also... is anyone riding with the latch broken, but using one of the bag retainer pin configurations that Cycle Rob and others have posted? Not sure if that set up is secure in and of itself, but it would be cheaper for sure.

Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!!

-K

Your '05 should have the same bags and mounts as the earlier models...As well as bags off the RT and I think RS, maybe even the R1100R bags.
Replacing the box is a simple case of drilling out the rivets, dropping the new box in and installing new rivets. (Just a pop rivet BTW, you can get them at Home Depot) A used latch module should go for $80-90 from someone like BeemerBoneyard.
I wasn't sure from your post if you had actually broken the hook or just the orange locking tab. If it's just the tab, you can use the bag normally, it just won't have the lock on the handles. Seems like I saw someone replace that tab, but it might be a lot of work. If the Hook part like you see above is broken, use your tank bag until you get it fixed. CycleRob's pin might hold it on, but it's not intended as a long term fix and the bag might still hop off the rails. I think he intended that pin to keep you from losing the bag if the hook does break, which they are prone to do.

[Canyon Runner]

Thanks, Airman! Got it. I will reach out to beemer boneyard and see what I can find!

[R4R&R]

I've had two of the latches break on me. Once was while on the road; luckily I recovered the case and had to replace the lid and latch assembly. I picked up a used standard lid from eBay, and I had an extra latch assembly from my OEM smaller left bag base. Then I had the OTHER side case latch broke (it was a while after the first broke, but it was a different case). Luckily I was in the habit of checking the latch hook before riding off and caught that one before commuting home. I found a used replacement latch assembly; I wasn't going to pay $250+ for a "new" one that may break again! I had been hoping that someone would make a replacement latch piece since this seems to be a little common, but then they changed the overall case design with the R1200 series bikes so I gave up hope. Is someone making a replacement for the part that breaks?

[dnat928]

Yes, to the question of using the case with a broken latch. Bike fell over in garage, landed on case, broken latch. Having seen the pin retainer approach, and needing a quick fix, I simply drilled a hole through the case flanges and the bike bracket...put a bolt through and a locknut. Works fine - I rarely remove the case - just unscrew the nut and slide the bolt out. This is OK until I get my buddy at his machine shop to either weld the old one or make a new one. BMW...$232 for a whole upper assembly...don't think so.

[Canyon Runner]

Hi, All.

So, I just bought the bullet and ordered a replacement "latch assembly" or "multi pupose box". Pretty crazy piece of clockwork, for the job it does. Not sure, but it looks to me like the metal on the part of the latch that failed is now made out of something different. I don't yet have the other bag to compare it to, but in the shop it looked like that metal was of a different nature than the original. Anybody else have a new one that looks like they may have addressed the issue? Or am I just being optimistic? (Or is the failure of that latch piece engineered in order to protect the bike on a drop, as has been suggested, so there was no issue to fix?)

In any case, I am a financialy poorer man who will soon have his fully functional riding partner back. End game, I am way ahead.

[Samiam]

I have just broken the red locking tab myself. It seems to me that as long as the top handle stays in the down position, the bag will remain safely mounted. Here is my temporary solution: I'm going to use a couple of Velcro strips to keep the top handle (bag opening handle) securely down against the bottom (bag release) handle. The Velcro seems lots better than using tape, bungies, etc for temporary security.

I know that anyone could simply defeat the Velcro and raise the handles and be off with the bag but this "fix" is only for use until I replace the red locking tab. The design and material of these tabs seems to be the weakest link in BMW's otherwise superior pannier system. What are these tabs made of? Anyone know?

[riceburner]

Does anyone know if the 'Multi-function-box' pannier locking system replacement comes with a complete lock? Or do you need to re-fit the lock barrel from the old box you're removing?

If so - does anyone have a procedure written down?

(finally had a pannier lock arm break couple of weeks ago).

[garr2]

Does anyone know if the 'Multi-function-box' pannier locking system replacement comes with a complete lock? Or do you need to re-fit the lock barrel from the old box you're removing? If so - does anyone have a procedure written down?

After a couple of close calls with my system case locks I came across these instructions.
http://www.ebbo.org/key.php
Fortunately I haven't had to use them yet so can't vouch for their usefulness, but have a look and see what you think.

Ian