R1150R BMW Integral ABS 1 (iABS1) Removal

[sweatmark]

speedtrickle-

Afraid I don't know of any resources for CAN-BUS bike ABS retrofit resources. But then I'm also not aware of any common recurring problems for the newer, simpler, (much) lighter ABS system used for your bike... in fact, I wouldn't have ever considered ABS-removal for the improved system if installed on my Rockster.

(edit April 2012)
Looks like 2005 bikes with CAN-BUS and the iABS1 pressure modulator system are a more difficult prospect. These bikes differ from the R1150** models with respect to brake & tail lamp control, speedometer signal source and type, and circuit connections made at the X9190 iABS connector. The ABS removal plumbing (like the R1150**) is easy; the electrics are complex.

Not aware of anyone who has retrofit such a 2005 bike via iABS removal.

[speedtrickle]

Thanks sweatmark. I'm typing from New Zealand, guess it makes no difference but appreciate your feedback probably all the more. The abs on this particular bike isn't working and has been previously tampered with by the looks of things. I got the bike (an ex rental with 100,000kms)for a knockdown price figuring it couldnt be too hard...hmm. Anyway it all goes and stops fine and even passed a warrant inspection as is, but for peace of mind and seeing as the thing isn't working I'd really like to get rid of the abs unit. Looking at the bike there is no mechanical switch on either lever and found that removing the unit neutered brake light function. For some reason the warning light goes out even though the abs isn't working so was thinking the easiest fix may be to intoduce pressure switches once the brake lines are re routed. Picking up on your rockster fix got me thinking maybe there's another way. While I almost certainly wouldn't notice the weight loss (about a kilo) it would be great to be able to remove it. Disconnecting the abs brain does see the flashing warning lamp staying on though.
Ramblings of a madman but running out of ideas;)

[speedtrickle]

Just re reading my own post and realised the systems are fundamentally different and what works for one etc.. The main point is the brake switch on the 1200gs must be integral to the abs block which I wish to dispose of so therefore it's going to require the fitment of a pressure switches to both 'new' hydraulic circuits. Then the main problem will be whether normal engine function is assosiated with the abs and the lesser problem of the warning light which I guess could just involve removing a bulb. Anyway it's good to talk and thanks for helping me see things a bit less foggy. Cheers

[sweatmark]

Just re reading my own post and realised the systems are fundamentally different and what works for one etc..

Afraid it's an "apples & oranges" comparison. The R1150** wires/fuses/switches mess is heavy, complicated, subject to wire harness failure, and thankfully easy to work with. CAN-BUS is the opposite: elegantly simple, lightweight, much more reliable... but impossible to work on unless one has access to module programming and full understanding of the intercommunications and depedence between system modules.

Which is to say, somebody out there might know just what the ABS ECU is telling your bike's motor ECU controller, and can potentially liberate the system of any dependence on the ABS ECU for proper systems functioning. But that somebody is likely a BMW systems engineer who has solemnly sworn to keep the info secret.

It might be possible - conceptually - to remove the ABS from a CAN-BUS bike, and reprogram any/all systems to link signals from the hand & foot brake sensors (assuming they're built into the respective control units) directly to the brake lamp actuator. I've not studied CAN-BUS systems, so I might be full of crap.

It would also be necessary to reprogram the instrument ECU to eliminate any fault displays that might result from missing ABS ECU.

No doubt it's possible to make your retrofit work; it's just a question of what resources (smart people with smarter computer gizmos) would be necessary to reprogram various ECUs.

[speedtrickle]

Will do some further research but fairly sure bike has old fashioned wiring not fibre optic. Thinking best option now is to leave everything alone but blank off the abs so it cant ever operate. Otherwise I'll have to isolate the fault and start hunting for bits on e bay. Once again thanks for your wisdom sweatmark.

[01surveyor]

Hi Sweatmark,
I just bought a 2001 R1100s and have been reading your excellent thread on removing the dreaded ABS. The previous owner removed the ABS unit and did the replumbing and enough rewiring to get brakes and lights etc working. However he could not sort the speedo problem. I followed yout thread on this topic and I see that you eventually sorted the problem. I've checked the October 09 update but can't discover HOW you solved it. I have seen a solution that involves retaining the elecrtrics off the ABS unit but all I have left is the large multi plug and the two 'relays'. I'd be really grateful to knoew how you got the speedo working before I start trying to locate and ABS unit that I can canibalise.

Regards
Surveyor
Dublin
IRELAND

[sweatmark]

Surveyor - sent you a PM regarding speedometer signal options.

[boxhead]

Anyone think it is worth 3000 dollars to replace an abs modulator? Thats a good bit more than the factory charges for abs (although its pretty much standard now.)

[sweatmark]

Anyone think it is worth 3000 dollars to replace an abs modulator?

If you search here for the multitude of "ABS or not" topic threads, you'll find some strong opinions and even stronger testimony from those whose ABS has saved rider and machine from certain doom. Based on such information - and from those folks who have really used their ABS to prevent mishap - the answer to your question is likely "yes, it's worth it." My personal opinion (and you know what they say...) is that a reliable ABS system is an excellent safety investment; an unreliable ABS system is (or should be) an embarrassment to a major vehicle manufacturer, and a potential pain in the butt for bike owner.

But before you plunk down 3-large to replace a broken iABS1, consider a resource such as Beemer Boneyard (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abshycoun.html) for less expensive fix.

While my Rockster's iABS removal is documented here, please note that my F800S was purposefully selected for its excellent, reliable, lightweight, and unobtrusive ABS system.

[manlio]

Sweatmark,

hi there. Time for the ABSectomy on my 2004 Rockster (Third ABS modulator has rear brake motor shut, hence would have to change everything...).
Was counting on your instructions, however, I only see the headers (parts, procedure etc) in your first message but not the actual instructions.
Am I missing something? is this a sign that, given that I cannot see the instructions, I certainly should not venture attempting the procedure?

help, please...

thanks, manlio

[sweatmark]

Am I missing something? is this a sign that, given that I cannot see the instructions, I certainly should not venture attempting the procedure?

manlio-

Have no fear. Sorry, I've been lazy about cleaning up this topic thread, and now I'm carrying sufficient guilt to get it done!

OK - first section/main post is updated.

[manlio]

sweatmark,

sweet...

thx, manlio

[sivaramshiv]

Hi:

I am trying to convert my 2004 R1150R iABS to non ABS. I am hoping to hold on to the ABS PCB.In case I need a contigency
plan where the ABS PCB is 'inoperative what kind of 'automotive 5 pin rely" is required ? I prefer full details to this as I found
several type of relays with 5 pins. ( I understand from TYCO the OE suppliers to BMW that these are mini relays).

Secondly I am lost on the circuit details. ......is it that I just replace the 4 pin existing mini rely(item 10 as per the
shop manul) with this 5 pin ? or I have to make wires and terminals to install the 5 pin mini relay ?

Your fast reply will be highly appreciated.My email [email protected]

Thanks

sivaramshiv

[sweatmark]

Suppose I should draw a real circuit diagram for posterity. Will do ASAP, plus send email.

For now, a brief explanation:

The Integral ABS 1 brake switches are normally closed, conducting current when at rest. Since this is the opposite of "normal" brake switches (which conduct power for the brake lamp only when switch is closed), it is necessary to create a circuit that supplies brake lamp power only when the iABS1 brake switches are activated, that is, when one or both switches STOP conducting current. This function is carried out by the iABS1 controller in original form, with both brake lamp and tail lamp connected through the X9190 connector - squeeze either hand or foot brake lever/switch, which breaks the switch circuit, which tells the ABS controller to supply brake lamp power.

But that's exactly what pin 87a of a regular old Bosch-type 5-pin relay does: it carries power from Pin 30 when the coil circuit (pins 85, 86) is broken.

Here's a great overview of Bosch type relays:
[url][http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm/url]

Note that the OE ABS relay performs the same function as the 30-87a circuit, and pulling the relay to extinguish the ABS warning lamp just happens to supply you with the relay needed to retain the iABS brake switches. I chose to use the ubiquitous 5-pin $5 relay because I wanted the relay to switch between brake and tail lamps, for no other reason than novelty of the 87/87a function.

Per your last question, no the new relay connects some of the wires found at the X9190 connector. The socket for the old ABS mini relay is not reused.

[sivaramshiv]

BMW 2004 R1150R iABS removal.

Unfortunatley the iABS in my motorcycle is NOT Boch but by a different OE supplier FTE. The BMW Part
# stamped is 34.51 7 660 909-Express. The vin # WB10439A64ZF50158.

As of now I think the iABS PCB is fine (as told to me). But for some reason if the PCB has a problem
which we are not able to ascertain now, I dont want to be stuck with electricals once I get on to this.

If it is just pulling out the existing 4 pin BMW relay (TYCO V230/3-B005x17; OE BMW part 6136-1393417)
and replacing with 5 pin it is a simple task. But if a seperate circuit is to be made and the 5 pin to be installed
I prefer a clear instruction on wires and connectors.

There are many 5 pin automobile relys in the market. The one I got for this is a BWD brand R3223 41-5620
The box also have a printed # V07305.

On the relay I have the following markings

"ZETTLER"
AZ988-1CT-!@DC1R(201)

20A 12VDC on another side of the relay 4606409AA.

When I took a look on the female terminal sid where the relay is installed. I did not see female terminal or wirings
to accomodate the 5th pin of the relay, but has an empty slot.

I admit I am NOT AN Electrical guy......but a motorcycle enthuasist.

If this is not the correct relay, Please give specific acceptable correct relay brand,model # etc.etc. as every dealer
has their brand to promote.
Thanks

Shiv

[sivaramshiv]

Thanks.......I feel better with some clarity now.

This morning I shopped around and got the BOCH type relay you have used and suggessted. Only difference is
it is different make and made in China. The pin and circuit designations are very much the same similar to 5 pin
automotive rely which you explained. I also got the female connectors a packet of 10 which probably I have to crimp.

I am still holding your hand......please help me out. Where is the x9190 connector ?and what kind of wires (color,
gauge, length etc.etc. has to be used ? The female connector I got is 16-14 guage. I am told by the shop owner
that this should be good enough for my application.


So this is what I need from you to proceed.

1. Let me know where is the connector x 9190.

2. What type of wires in terms of color,gauge, required lenth etc.etc. is required.

Thanks


Shiv

[sweatmark]

Shiv- sounds like you will be ok with that relay. Seems that Bosch originated the boxy/cube automotive relay, and while many others make similar relays (including TYCO, who bought Bosch's auto relay business), the public continues to call the devices "Bosch relays".

FWIW, my iABS was also an FTE product, as I believe were all Integral ABS 1 systems.

Here's a pic of the X9190 connector that attaches to top of the iABS1 pressure modulator.


If you're interested, you can find additional photos of the removal process and associated parts in my photobucket album.

You will not need any additional wire, as the new relay is connected directly into the iABS wiring harness via female crimp terminals that mate with relay pins.

But first, try out your iABS control box for function. If that works, then you won't need to to cut the harness or make any other permanent modifications.

[sivaramshiv]

Hello Sweetmark:

Splindid.....splindid.......I owe you a treat on this.....Everything is very clear in my mind. There was attempt 1
done to repair the iABS by a multinational rebuilder in MASS. He did not succed in his attempt due non availabilty
of spare. I ended up with paying the dealership a fee over $500/- to pull out the ABS unit and then made them
install thinking that the ABS is repaired and functional. But did not.

Here is the report :

"
You will be happy to know that I did find the problem. I am looking for a source for the part as we speak. I’m having a hard time finding a replacement for this because the faulty part was designed by FTE (who also designed the whole ABS) and even they want to sell you a whole new ABS assembly for some outrageous amount of money.



Basically this ABS system has 4 independently programmed pressure transducers on it.. one of them is not outputting any pressure value back to the ABS which explains your fault on the bike (If the ABS loses its pressure signal from the sensors it automatically assumes the pressure is too high and throws the code you have)… Give me a little more time to try and source the part and I’ll let you know how it turns out I hope to have an idea of best course of action by tomorrow afternoon. I hope I can get these parts aftermarket if not the alternative might be replacing the sensors from a used unit.. Not sure if you have access to any?



Regards,

Andrew Tavares

Workshop Technical Manager



BBA Remanufacturing Inc.

300 Myles Standish Blvd.

Taunton, MA 02780



P: 1 (866) 573-2740

F: 1 (508) 822-4491 "


If this is right may be the iABS PCB should be alright.

Thanks & Regards,

Shiv

[sivaramshiv]

Hello Sweatmark:

I need to hold your hand again........
I was rephersing the BOSCH relay and wire connections. Not clear which wire to which terminals in the relay.
These are the designations marked in the relay.

86 87 87a 30 & 85


Frankly I got messed up because of the color wire diagram given in the R1150RT !

Now I want to know which colored wires from x9190 should go to the above Boch relay.

Thanks & Regard.


Shiv

[sivaramshiv]

Hi Sweatmark:

I hope you enjoyed the weekend.

I am awaiting your wiring diagram for the iABS removal of my 2004 R1150R. If I can relay the report it
may not be required to peel of the x9190 wires. But I want to be fully prepared. Please send the info ASAP.

Now, I had a Kawasaki Vulcan 750 wiring harness without any use. I found factory soldered and crimped,
insulated female terminals which I clipped. If I can join, (ofcourse if necessay only) this will make the
hooking of the 5 pin relay very neat. But I do not know the rated Amps on these wires. What is maximum
Amps that we are talking about in the 5 pin relay? may be 3 - 4 Amps.?

Cheers & Thanks SHIV