15 States in 13 Days

This section is for people to post trip writeups and pictures AFTER the trip is over.

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Lost Rider
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15 States in 13 Days

Post by Lost Rider »

The idea for this trip started when I was asked to come to L.A. to work for 2 days a few weeks back. Hmmm L.A. After looking at my schedule, and moving a few things around, I decided I was going to ride. I've been wanting to get out West on my bike all year for my insatiable need for nice twisty roads. I need an Adventure. The budget was going to be tight though....
So I had 5 days to prepare. I had just serviced my bike, so I was go to go for the first 6000 miles or so. I estimated the rear tire would need to be replaced in California. Fine. Since I'd already racked up 15,000 miles this summer with plenty of camping I knew my camping gear and spares list was good to go. I did however pick up a (used, thanks David ) Ztechnik touring screen, and a Air Hawk butt pad. Both proved to be an excellent investment, and without the Air Hawk.....
A quick trip to REI was all I needed to pick up some expendable's, CamelBak Elixer tablets, some freeze dried food, cliff bars, etc.
The plan was to leave on Tuesday and be in L.A. on Sunday. 2 days there, then ride up the coast to Portland, then home. Sounds like a good plan..
I decided I was going to get The Midwest over with and into the mountains in 1 day, slabbing it from Chicago to Denver. That would give me more time to wander my way down to So-Cal, and maybe do a little fishing on the way. This time I only brought a fly-rod with me... I'm not a good fly fisherman, but since I was going to be in Colorado.... well, when in Rome...
Let it begin! :clap


*disclaimer*
If you don't like stories with lots of high speed runs , dirty off road thrashing of a R1200R, scotch drinking, or pictures taken while riding one handed then this isn't for you...










I ended up leaving Chicago around 10:30AM
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Mississippi River

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At least I could day dream about The Mountains
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The problem with going West across Iowa is knowing that you'll have to cross Nebraska when you're done here. At least it was a very nice day, around 85ºF
Once in Nebraska at least the speed limit is 75, so keeping with my no excessive speeding policy (for now) I settled into a nice fast clip .
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Looks like it could rain...
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Yep, it's gonna rain.


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Severe Thunderstorm Warning. Bring it on.
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This is what it was like close to the Colorado border for me, I can appreciate a good light show. It rain hard for about 30 minutes, then tapered off to light rain for another hour or so. I was dry in my Frogg Toggs.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RelRVBrFzg






I ended up in Loveland, CO the first night, just outside of the Rocky Mountain National Park, right where I wanted to be. I treated myself to a motel this night after such a day of riding. ( I had made a deal with myself to get one if I made it there in one day)

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The next day I was up early, unable to sleep in, excited for what was in front of me. So I hit the road around 7:30 riding on US34. I stopped in Estes Park to pick up a fishing license, and try and get some tips on fly fishing in the area.

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While in Estes Park I met a guy on a old BMW who told what fly shop to go to and some roads I should ride. He said to be sure and ride Old Fall River Road, if I don't mind gravel.

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It turned out to be excellent, just as he said.


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The first of many one lane road work area's I would pass. At least I was first in line, and got to chat with the lady here for the 25 minutes I had to wait.

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First night camp-spot, right next to a river in the SM NP.

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The temp was a nice 68º, low's forecasted to be in the upper 50's. Great.
I break out the Johnny Walker black, get some ice out of my CamelBak, and settle in and relax.
It did rain this night, around 1 AM for a few hours. Again, more lighting and thunder. I slept good with the sound of rain on the tent.
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First thing in the morning I fished the stream right next to me and caught this. Too bad it's all catch and release here in the Park....

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After packing up I headed back onto US34.
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After some time riding some beautiful twisty roads I was ready to explore some logging roads and get a little dirty.

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Look Ma, no road!

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yep, there was motorcycles listed on this approved means of travel sign.
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So after about 6 hours of riding on unpaved roads, I start to notice a sloppiness in my bike. I stop and see that my rear tire is going flat.

* note to self, don't ride rough roads with sharp rocks when the tire is in it's later stage of life*


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So I'm thinking, fine, I finally get to try out this stop and go tire plugger thingy. ( one of 3 different kinds of plugging kits I have with me.)


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It was pretty easy to use, not taking too long to use. I felt good about it, getting out my mini air compressor. I plug it in to the bike accessory outlet and it goes for about 20 seconds then stops. It must have pulled too much of a load and the CAN-BUS system must have shut it down. poo. OK, I'll just move it to the standard cigarette light outlet I have hardwired in my tank-box. It works. After a minute of two there was no inflation of the tire happening. poo. I removed the nozzle, and push my finger against it, and sure enough, it wasn't holding pressure. poo. So I go to plan B, getting out the Co2 cartridges from the Stop n Go , and BMW kit's. I had 7 of them. I put one in, then two, barely seeing the tire inflate. Seems like they waste a lot of air while changing cartridges... After 5 of them I was able to see progress.... wait, what's that noise? air leaking? What?
BS. Well, I was looking for an Adventure right? :rofl
damn stop and go..... wait it's not leaking from the plug.... there's another hole! poo. So I get put another plug in the 2nd hole, losing a good portion of the air of course. I then use the 2 other cartridges, bringing my tire up to a measly 24psi. poo. No cell service of course, up on a mountain at 9,600 feet, many miles from pavement... So I take the compressor apart, trying to figure out what's wrong. Turns out it was leaking where the gauge goes into the compressor. A little e-tape and a couple zip-ties later I try it out.
Go, go, go, go , YES! it's holding and slowly building pressure. :clap






I fill it up and head out, making my way back to pavement. After about 20 minutes on the (paved) road I could feel my rear tire losing air again.
So this is where I put in plug number 3. At least I was getting pretty proficient at it.

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Back on the road, rt 131
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I ended up replacing one of the plugs two more times, it just wouldn't hold for some reason.
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I made into Glenwood Springs, had some Sushi (good Sushi in the mountains? go figure.)
While eating I located a BMW dealer in Grand Junction, yes we have the tire, yes, come in the morning and we can change it sometime in the day. Sometime? I just ignored that, happy to have found a tire.

So I head down Rt. 133 looking for a camp spot.

Avalanche campground was the destination, unfortunately it meant riding 12 miles of this to get too. I had put enough plugs in by now that i was confident I could get out if things got worse....

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It was worth the risk, great campground, and had it mostly to myself. I few miles of dirt sure does keep out the RV's. :) There was I nice river right next to me that I was able to take a (cold) bath in.



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Again, out came the Johnny, listening to some Cash enjoying the nearly full moon. As I went to bed I saw lighting coming my way.... It stormed again raining like hell for about an hour or two, and was about 55ºF making for some good sleeping weather.
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Once again it was sunny in the morning, here's on my way out.
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So I made it to Grand Junction around 10:30AM, going to the Honda/BMW dealer. Key word Honda.
I go in to the service desk and tell them I'm here to get my tire changed. The guy says, oh, we won't be able to get to you until monday, sorry. What? You told me yesterday you could I said. You should have been here earlier he said. I explained I was riding cross country, and had 3 plugs in my tire.... He didn't care, with his Honda hat on...... I'll leave out what was said next to keep this clean, but I ended up buying the tire and leaving.



Worst Dealer Ever.
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So I ended up finding a trusty Harley dealer, going in and explaining my situation. The guy said, heck we're all ride'n on two wheels, so if you can take it off the bike, we'll change it for you and get you back on the road.

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Flame pinstripes in the poo even!
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I'm back on the road around noon, Utah here I come!

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Once into Utah, especially with fresh rubber I couldn't resist. This is a road, right?
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I met this guy from Wisconsin in Utah, he was doing the same ride but in reverse, going north then down the coast, a few days work in L.A. and was on his way home heading into Colorado. It was nice to share routes and such with a fellow motorcycle traveler.

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It was hot. around 95ºF

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After going down 191 through Moab and Monticello I turned onto 95 towards Natural Bridges NP. Ending up on 275, I made it to the Park and was disappointed with the campground. No view, and the sites were real close to each other. So after riding so many miles of beautiful landscape with nobody around I decided I was going to find my own campsite.



After coming up a road like this

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I turned onto a "road" like this

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For a view like this

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Then onto this

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Then over here

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To find this spot


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The site was awesome. It had obviously been quite some time since anyone had been anywhere near here. Very neat spot, it was amazing how quiet it was.

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So everything was perfect. 65º, clear, full moon, a cold beer I had stuffed in my clothes in Blanding, some red beans and rice, a nice fire, etc. I was feeling on top of the world, at least until the coyote's started howling. First one to my right, then one to the left, then a few more howling behind me. I was all cool and tough till then... lol I mean, I'll admit it, I'm a city boy from the Midwest and this was new to me... lol
By this time I had finished the beer and moved on to the last of the scotch, so I'm sure that didn't help with my paranoia. So I moved my tent a little closer to the fire, made a bigger fire, and eventually yelled at them to shut up. They didn't, I laughed at myself and went to sleep.

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I woke up just fine, it was around 50º, packed up and hit the "road"
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An old Indian Grave
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I turned onto Rt 24 off of Rt 95
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then onto Rt 12
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A little more exploring
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Here's where I thought I could get around the locked gate, but ended up getting stuck and having to dig out some rocks, and remove my hard case to get through. I guess I could use a skid plate for the R.

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I was trying to cut through Capitol Reef NP on this trail, but after a few hours the road became too rough for me, and I turned around.
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It was around 100º, so when I came across this stream I had to cool off.
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A u-pick orchard in Fruita, Utah

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Arizona!
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A little warm. I stayed hydrated and every hour or so would soak my shirt and helmet with water.
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I jumped onto I-5 on the other side of Hurricane, following these clowns at a high rate of speed for about 2 hours. Las Vegas here I come!

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Roughing it in Vegas
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Delicious dinner
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Dessert. I only donated $5 to the poker machine.
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The next morning I set out for Hermosa Beach California. I planned on jumping off the slab asap, going through the Mojave, and Joshua Tree.




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It was over 100ºF

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Yeah! It might rain. Flash Flood Warnings all over the place. It was real hot so I looked forward to some relief.
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So after seeing all these trails through the desert, I figured I should just take a shortcut across the Mojave.
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The trail in the background is what I was on.
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This is a road right?
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Um, yeah...
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I was salty after the spill...
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I had to ride along these for miles to find a place to get over them.
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Glorious rain! It felt so good. The only problem was the flooded roads to follow, good thing I made it back to pavement..

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Too bad the rain didn't last too long.
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I finally arrived to the coast in Hermosa Beach. I had friends here to stay with while I took care of business.

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This is the first half of the story, and I need to give my eyes a rest...
Last edited by Lost Rider on Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
sjbmw
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Post by sjbmw »

Amazing. What a report. Thanks.

Don't ride in lightning!!!
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Post by Boxer »

Oh my God! I feel like such a wimp.
Incredible! I think we can now promote you to the "Adventurer" status. :shock:
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Post by Caol »

What Boxer said!!!!


Wow!


Better yet:

WOW! :shock:
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Post by GypsyRR »

Another great adventure Joe. The first few photos of the roads in Utah convinced me I'm riding to Montana/Idaho next summer. Those look like some really fun roads (I prefer the pavement on the RR).

The whole trip looked fantastic and the photos were beautiful. Great job, Joe. Can't wait for part 2.
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Post by DSKYZD »

ChiTown, did I ever tell you that you are hardcore?
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Post by hirsty »

Strewth - nice trip!

You are fortunate to have such a great outdoors available to ride through (amazing variety), and to have paid work available at the other end! Hats off to you for doing all that rough stuff on a standard roadbike - BMW shouldn't have been so hasty to reclassify it as 'Urban'.

Looking forward to Part II.
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Post by DJ Downunder »

WOW!!!...Fantastic photos... =D> ...I'm going back for another look...Thanks for posting them for us..(and stopping to that them).. :smt023

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Post by Lost Rider »

hirsty wrote:Strewth - nice trip!

You are fortunate to have such a great outdoors available to ride through (amazing variety), and to have paid work available at the other end!

Looking forward to Part II.

Thanks, I was thinking the same thing about being so lucky to have such a great country, with such diverse beauty and wonderful roads to ride. There were many time's I thought that the only reason this road could possibly be here was for my own personal enjoyment - not another soul, town, or anything for vast stretches of miles. The more I travel, the more I realize how much I haven't seen. Being in such wide open, un-developed places really put's things in perspective for me. How small I am, how big the worlds is... etc.

I'm working non-stop all weekend, so I'll be finishing the story soon...
I think the best picture's are still to come...

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Post by Buckster »

I am totally jealous...what an adventure. It takes some real brass ones to be out in the middle of nowhere on your R1200RGS. I would have got lost and eaten by coyotes! Thanks for sharing!!
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Post by 12bar1 »

First of all GREAT REPORT and Photographs :D I don't know what you do for a living but you should quit and write a book about adventure touring in the USA. Now I have to donate my bikes to charity and start riding the bus because I am not worthy :shock: :shock:
Yer wanted by the police and my wife thinks your dead.
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Post by sjbmw »

12bar1 wrote:First of all GREAT REPORT and Photographs :D I don't know what you do for a living but you should quit and write a book about adventure touring in the USA. Now I have to donate my bikes to charity and start riding the bus because I am not worthy :shock: :shock:
I feel so...so...inadequate.

Chitown, how about Long Way Across?
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Post by iowabeakster »

Joe,

As always, a great adventure story. Great photos, and text.

My envy is bigger than those mountains.

You need some spare off road wheels to bring with you on these adventures!

Can't wait for the rest of the story.
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Post by Lost Rider »

OK, so where was I?
I made it to LA, and had two days of work/training to do. Personally, I don't care for SoCal much, I lived there for a few years and remember the traffic in LA....
At the time that I lived there, I wasn't riding then so this was my first experience in the land of legal lane splitting. Don't get me wrong I split lanes everyday here in Chicago, but with untrained cage drivers ( that will cut you off on purpose, honk, block you in, etc.) I am always cautious when doing so. In LA splitting lanes at 75, with traffic moving 25 seems common, and I jumped right in, making good time most everywhere. For obvious reasons I have no pics of me splitting lanes in heavy traffic. :)
I arrived on Sunday night, worked until tuesday afternoon and then set out for San Fransisco, slabbing it up I-5. At the time it was around 100º F, hot and sunny. Plenty of stops to soak my shirt and helmet kept me comfortable.

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I made it into San Fran just before sunset( at rush hour ), the temp dropped about 25º as I got close to the coast.

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I did get off the highway and cut through the city, at least a little.

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Golden Gate Bridge
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After crossing the bridge I went to REI in Corte Madera to restock for my ride home. It was dark by now and I was looking for a place to camp. I ended up in Mount Tamalpais SP, camping at a walk-in site.

Anxious to ride on US 1, I was up just before sunrise.


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Amazing road, very similar to Deal's Gap, but not one other vehicle for miles. After 2 days in LA, and a hot interstate run this is just what I needed.

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The coast!
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Shot with Canon PowerShot A710 IS at 2007-09-16



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Campsite just north of Crescent City

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Thursday morning I set out early again, wanting to see so much, the reality of time and distance and goals setting in. I needed to be home on monday night, 4.5 days away.




Will continue....







More traffic

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While riding on US 1 in Oregon, I saw a nice looking beach, to me this didn't seem that they really didn't want me to ride down to it.

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steep, loose rocks, but once I went around the gate there was no turning back..

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It was worth it once I was here

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the ride up was a little.... loose
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plenty of these to beware of
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Fire!
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I jumped off of 101 after a few hours of heavy traffic. Time to turn East. poo.
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Lava fields
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I zig-zag'd my way through Oregon up to HWY 20


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will continue soon...
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Post by Motomo »

What an amazing trip report!!! LOVED IT!! Made me want to get out and go. I have the same bike so I'm sure I can go exactly where you went. :lol: Not! Seriously, it was truly inspiring and the pics were amazing! Thanks.

Still waiting for the rest of the trip pics.
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Post by motorradguy »

DUDE.............. You kick ARSE. WOW
Ahh the bikes I've ridden. So many bikes, so little time!
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Post by Lost Rider »

Sorry I haven't had time to finish the story and post the rest of the pictures. With all this time I spent on my bike this summer, I must make it up working at some point.......

I just wanted to let everyone know I'm going to be interviewed this saturday morning on a Motorcycle Radio Show at 7 am eastern to talk about this trip. You can get show info here:

http://sidestandup.com


I'll post the rest of the pics asap.

Cheers!
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Post by Just-Beeming »

Hats off to your pics.
We just did a journey but
I find it difficult to get the pics taken, especially when its hot....I just want to get somewhere cool.
Do you have a camera mount?

Isn't UTAH the BEST! It seems to wind up in our itinerary no matter where we're off to.

Really nice report! thanks

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Post by cruiser »

As has already been said... I feel so inadequate!

You really use your bike... I'd be looking to sell mine after the slightest scratch! Apologies if you've covered this before but, may I ask why you chose the R1200R in preference to the GS? Seems to me that for your riding preferences, the GS would have been the natural choice.

You're a true adventurer Joe, and a courageous man... I bet you're not a Capricorn like me! :wink:

Wonderful report and photos... you've just spirited me away for a while from my boring office job, on a grey and rainy day in Hamburg, Germany.. thank you!

Mike :)
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Post by Lost Rider »

cruiser wrote:As has already been said... I feel so inadequate!

You really use your bike... I'd be looking to sell mine after the slightest scratch! Apologies if you've covered this before but, may I ask why you chose the R1200R in preference to the GS? Seems to me that for your riding preferences, the GS would have been the natural choice.

You're a true adventurer Joe, and a courageous man... I bet you're not a Capricorn like me! :wink:

Wonderful report and photos... you've just spirited me away for a while from my boring office job, on a grey and rainy day in Hamburg, Germany.. thank you!

Mike :)

I get that question quite a bit Mike, the reality is that I live in the heart of Chicago and 90% of my riding is an urban adventure, which the R is better suited for IMO.
I've ridden a R1200GS on some nice twisty paved mountain roads ( Blue Ridge Parkway ), and it just doesn't do it for me. Impossible to scrape the foot-pegs, and it feels top-heavy to me. While it would seem it's an obvious choice for "adventure" riding, I would ask a GS owner the same question. "why are you riding that GS on pavement all the time?"
The fact is they are all BMW's and can (mostly) take whatever it is you give them IMO. The difference between the two bike's is an attitude to me. I'm just that type of person that like to push the performance envelope on anything I touch.
I track my car, I beat on my MacBook, etc.
The R1200R has proven to be a swiss army knife of a motorcycle, able to fill any role I've asked of it. Pack mule, racer, tourer, dirt bike, commuter, etc. Plus riding a street bike off road keeps me from doing real stupid things...... if I was on a GS I would really get myself in trouble.:D

As for being an adventurer and courageous :oops: I don't think it's that big of deal, or I'm that great of rider at all (as the many pics I have of my bike on it's side would support), I just take my time when on loose stuff and stop to take pictures to have for later in life and to share. I just refuse to turn around once I get going, not wanting to admit defeat.
Long Way Round/Down, now that's an adventure!






Just-Beeming, no camera mount just one handed riding. The camera is a Cannon Powershot 710 IS. The Image Stabilization is the secret to my picture's.
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