Quick Disconnects (again)

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jb44
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Post by jb44 »

I read the whole Advrider thread also, and thought the verdict was still out on the brass disconnects due to o-ring swelling.

The disconnects from Wicks Aircraft are in 1/4" and 3/8" sizes. I thought the Roadster used 5/16" disconnects... ??? or is it critical?

I ordered the 5/16" from Omega...on a 2 week backorder.

jb
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Post by popgazer »

I have tried the brass QD from small parts. They work well, but they definitely swell. They need to be left out for at least 6 hours before they can snap back again. So I removed all QD and put a straight braded brass fitting. I also bought a smal C-clamp to clamp the fuel hose in case I need to remove the tank. I not putting back the piece of plastic @^%$#*$%
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Omega Fuel Line Quick Disconnects

Post by jb44 »

Received the Omega fuel line disconnects last week...thought I should put them on:

Image

I'm impressed with the quality of the fittings, and how smoothly they snap together...used a little silicone grease on the o-rings.
Also replaced the fuel line and hose clamps while I was at it.

Image

jb
Last edited by jb44 on Sat Sep 02, 2006 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by owldaddy »

Those look great jb, where did you find them, and how much were they?
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Post by johno »

Doesnt the R come with these as standard?
Either that, or mine had them fitted by the previous owner.
Makes removing the tank a lot less messy.
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Post by R4R&R »

johno wrote:Doesnt the R come with these as standard?
Either that, or mine had them fitted by the previous owner.
Makes removing the tank a lot less messy.
The bikes come with cheap plastic quick-disconnects that seem to break without warning. If you have the metal ones then consider yourself lucky, and the previous owner 'unlucky'.
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Post by jb44 »

owldaddy wrote:Those look great jb, where did you find them, and how much were they?
Don
Found out about them from the quick disconnect discussion on AdvRider.

(2) FT-LCD170-05 @ 20.14 each = 40.28
(2) FT-LCD220-05 @ 12.39 each = 24.78
shipping = $8.00

Total = $73.06 USD

http://www.omega.com/

In 3 1/2 years of riding the R1150R I never had a fuel line leak, but the stock connectors were looking a bit worn....

Image

jb
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Post by owldaddy »

Thanks for the info jb. I have been wanting to change those plastic connectors out before they become a problem. One of those jobs that is easier to do in the garage, then on the side of the road. I think that a lot of problems we hear about on this board concerning the Roadster maybe the exception, rather then the rule. I might not have bought a Roadster had I read some of the problems folks have had before I bought. But even the dealer has to admit that he has had to change a bunch of those plastic connectors. I want to go on the record now that my 04 R is doing well, has no fuel leaking, no oil seeping, no surging, no spline problems, etc. etc. (knock on wood) :) I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had a trouble free bike. Maybe we should do a poll and see if I'm just the exception, rather then the rule.
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Post by DK »

I just had one of the plastic ones fail a couple of weeks ago about 10 miles from home. I decided to remove both of the original plastic ones and replace the fuel lines and all of the OEM clamps that are impossible to work on in an emergency. I was going to look around for some good quality disconnects and just splice them in later.

Thanks for the info on these, they look nice!

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Post by CARTEEUSMC »

I have a trouble free bike, except people running it over. Then, she still is trouble free.
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Post by rdsmith3 »

I just got my Omega disconnects. Since I just fitted new plastic ones, I will save this for a winter project. They seem to be very good quality.
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Post by geothepencil »

Don't know if this was posted elsewhere or not, but the O Rings should be Viton and suitable for fuel, which I'm not sure the Omegas come with. the Viton O rings are available from Marco Rubber in small quantities or in packages of 100 from McMaster Carr Part # 9464K16. Courtesy of discussions on I-BMW and KBikes.com


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Post by jb44 »

geothepencil wrote:but the O Rings should be Viton and suitable for fuel, which I'm not sure the Omegas come with. geo
Thanks for the tip. There were differing opinions about the o-rings on AdvRider...or I lost track of the thread.... :roll:

I carry extra o-rings for the stock connectors. They look like they should fit the Omegas. Guess I should actually try them on.

I have temporarily removed the plastic piece covering the connectors so I could check them each time I ride. I also disconnected and reconnected the fittings several different times, checking for o-ring swelling. The connectors have snapped right back on with no problem.

Three weeks, no sign of leaks.

...noticed that the connectors are once again on 3 week back order.

jb
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o-rings

Post by jb44 »

Here's the o-ring story:
Image
When I removed the stock buna-n Omega o-rings, they were fractionally larger than the BMW and M-C rings... visibly a bit larger to the eye, but unmeasurable with a standard mm ruler. I attribute the size difference to swelling, because after two days on my desk, the Omega o-rings are now the same size as the others.

I put the stock BMW o-rings on the Omega disconnects for two days of riding...perfect fit, no leaks. Put on the M-C o-rings today, and no leaks for short rides around town.

I will keep the M-C o-rings on, and will check on them regularly.

If any board members need a couple of extra M-C viton o-rings, send me an email (with "o-rings" in the subject line), and I will send them to you....while suppllies last.

jb
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Post by boxermania »

jb44

Very nice posting.......Omega carries a variety of products that are very heplful to the tinkerer. I have encolsed the pdf file from the Omega Catalog on the fittings in question.

I have also enclosed an O-ring Compatability Chart for the benefit of the readers.

http://www.omega.com/Green/pdf/FTLC.pdf

http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm

Most vehicles fuel systems are equipped with Viton 0-rings, Buna N is a second choice on use.......Viton and Oxygenated Fuels are not a good choice.....but I'll talk more about that in another post. 8)
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Post by Dr. Strangelove »

popgazer wrote:I have tried the brass QD from small parts. They work well, but they definitely swell.
Can the O rings be replaced if need be?

Do we need the single or double shut off model?
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Post by ProductUser »

Why not just remove the QD's?

PU
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Post by dnat928 »

Yes, you could remove the QD's, and have straight running fuel lines, but then it would be much more difficult to remove or lift the gas tank.

As to the single/double shutoff QD's, singles will work OK, just make sure you have the shutoff direction towrd the tank (to keep the gas from running out...). The other end will be open, the only danger is getting foreign objects in the open ends - not really a problem if you are careful, or put something over the open end. Otherwise, double shutoff is a bit safer (but you STILL have to be careful to not get stuff in the open - but shut off ends).

O-rings, not sure why you would need to replace them...should never need to under normal useage. Check with Small Parts on that one.

Also, I have the Small Parts brass QD's and have removed the fuel tank twice and simply reconnected the QD's - didn't need to dry out the O-rings, they went back together just fine
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Post by Dr. Strangelove »

dnat928 wrote: O-rings, not sure why you would need to replace them...should never need to under normal useage. Check with Small Parts on that one.
Well, it seems that some report swelling and others, like yourself deny it happens. O-rings would be easy to carry if they were easily replaced if need be; and not a big expense if not

Thanks for the info, though. I think I'm going to do it.

John
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Quick Disconnects (again)

Post by Dr. Strangelove »

Being fearful of getting stranded with a failed disconnect, I decided to replace them. I read all the posts on here, Advrider and bmwst and decided to try the "Small Parts" discoonects, but test them as one poster suggested.

I let the female ends soak in gas overnight and then tried to reconnect--no go at all. After 6+ hours one could be forced back in, but the other could not.

After forcing that one together, it pretty easily dis and re connected--easy enough that it was not an issue. I went to phase two of the test. I let the reconnected one soak in gas overnight. I figured that the "connected" state is the normal environment for these disconnects, and being connected would limit the swelling of the internal (can't see how to replace one) O-Ring. This morning after soaking all night it disconnects and reconnects just fine.

The other disconnect, the one that would not reconnect yesterday, could be reconnected today with force. I am waiting a few hours to check it to see if it easily dis and re connects.

I will probably be installing them, but just in case, will carry a couple of straight connectors as some have used.

The Small parts connectors are the same length as the OEM.

Pictures will follow.

John
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