Rear wheel removal
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Rear wheel removal
Anybody got instructions for removing rear wheel? I got a new tire and plan to deposit wheel & tire with dealer to save labor. I got the 4 lugs off and the brake assembly removed, but the wheel didn't budge. Do I need to remove the 6 torx bolts to the rotor?
Appreciate any help offered.
RonBomb
Appreciate any help offered.
RonBomb
Motorcycling is like flying on the ground
Rear brake caliper removed?
Did you remove the rear brake caliper from its mounting posts?
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Is the caliper completely free of the rotor? You have to remove the two large Torx bolts that hold the caliper on and wiggle it out of the way...be careful to not scratch the paint on swingarm.
The wheel should come right off. You might have to "bump" it a bit if it is stuck.
The wheel should come right off. You might have to "bump" it a bit if it is stuck.
Dave
#226
I've spent most of my life on motorcycles, the rest I've just wasted...
#226
I've spent most of my life on motorcycles, the rest I've just wasted...
Re: Rear brake caliper removed?
Yes. I was just reading the rear wheel removal procedure in the manual posted at http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/hotzuk wrote:Did you remove the rear brake caliper from its mounting posts?
According to the manual, removing the brake assembly and the lugs should be all that is needed. I'm going back into the garage to give it another try.
Thanks,
RonBomb
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Loosening the muffler and rotating it a bit will help get the clearance needed for those wide Avons.
Doug #351
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RonBomb.......you have done everything necesary to remove the wheel.
I presume that this is your first time.......the wheel is made of aluminum and the close tolerance hub it fits is made of steel. Removing the wheel the first time is a bit dificult because this is a common place where rust will form, as Boxer has indicated. You can use a rubber hammer or rock the wheel from side to side until it comes loose.
Make sure that you clean both the wheel hub and the mounting hub on the differential, don't sand the surfaces since they are the ones that center the wheel to the hub. I always apply a thin film of bearing grease to the surfaces to mitigate rust formation.
Last but not least, make sure you torque the wheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern, using three steps, say, 30 ft-lbs, 50 ft-lbs and 70 ft-lbs. The final torque value should be 72 ft-lbs but I leave it at 70 since it is within the torque wrench accuracy.
Hope this helps.......
I presume that this is your first time.......the wheel is made of aluminum and the close tolerance hub it fits is made of steel. Removing the wheel the first time is a bit dificult because this is a common place where rust will form, as Boxer has indicated. You can use a rubber hammer or rock the wheel from side to side until it comes loose.
Make sure that you clean both the wheel hub and the mounting hub on the differential, don't sand the surfaces since they are the ones that center the wheel to the hub. I always apply a thin film of bearing grease to the surfaces to mitigate rust formation.
Last but not least, make sure you torque the wheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern, using three steps, say, 30 ft-lbs, 50 ft-lbs and 70 ft-lbs. The final torque value should be 72 ft-lbs but I leave it at 70 since it is within the torque wrench accuracy.
Hope this helps.......
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RonBomb,
The wheel is stuck because of the normal corrosion.
The best way to un-stick a frozen-on wheel is to first use the centerstand, then remove the rear brake caliper's 2 TORX mounting bolts. Then turn the rear wheel a half turn as you put the bike in 1st gear. Next, loosen all lugnuts about 3 turns. Next grab the wheel at opposite sides, like the 10 and 4 O'Clock positions, and wobble it to break it free without having it break loose and crash into something valueable. The Lugnuts will restrain it. The rest you know.
The wheel is stuck because of the normal corrosion.
The best way to un-stick a frozen-on wheel is to first use the centerstand, then remove the rear brake caliper's 2 TORX mounting bolts. Then turn the rear wheel a half turn as you put the bike in 1st gear. Next, loosen all lugnuts about 3 turns. Next grab the wheel at opposite sides, like the 10 and 4 O'Clock positions, and wobble it to break it free without having it break loose and crash into something valueable. The Lugnuts will restrain it. The rest you know.
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Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Success
"What tire is on it, and what are you replacing it with?"
Replaced an MEZ5 with 9,000+ miles on it with an Avon ST46. Looking at some of the other posts, some of the other members are almost clairvoyent in assuming it was Avon. Had to tap the tire with a ballpeen hammer at 180 degrees opposite to get the wheel to break free. Getting the wheel back on was easy, though I did have to deflate the tire. Getting the brake caliper back on was more problematic, for reasons that are not clear.
Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, so I don't have an opinion on the Avon yet.
Thanks for the help and suggestions.
RonBomb
Replaced an MEZ5 with 9,000+ miles on it with an Avon ST46. Looking at some of the other posts, some of the other members are almost clairvoyent in assuming it was Avon. Had to tap the tire with a ballpeen hammer at 180 degrees opposite to get the wheel to break free. Getting the wheel back on was easy, though I did have to deflate the tire. Getting the brake caliper back on was more problematic, for reasons that are not clear.
Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, so I don't have an opinion on the Avon yet.
Thanks for the help and suggestions.
RonBomb
Motorcycling is like flying on the ground