WhiteDog wrote:Which way do you mount this battery? The positive terminal is on the left side above the writing on the side. This coincides with the verbage in the Clymer manual which also have the pics showing the positive post on the left (BMW OEM). My PC680 is just the reverse--negative is on the left, positive on the right. The pics shown on the internet show the PC680 with negative on driver left . Clymer also dictates removal of the gas tank to install the battery. Somewhere I read the battery can be removed by first removing the left side cover then unfastening the mounting strap, slide the battery to the left, disconnect the negative cable (on the left), then slide the battery again and disconnect the positive cable and remove the battery. The Motobatt battery pics referenced in the link above show the negative post on the right side. I believe my cables are long enough to connect, but Amazon does not show a Motobatt battery to fit my '96 R1100RT. I like the idea of higher cranking amps but the search goes on.
Here is the awesome feature of the Motorbatt....it has four terminals, so you just flip it around. This also allows another set of connections to the Battery.
Check out the dimensions on this link and compare it to what you have for fitment. http://www.m.motobatt.com/catalog/view/ ... del_id=160
1974 Kawi H-1 500
1975 Norton 850
2002 BMW R1150R
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250
2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
I've read some interesting comments today about the MotoBatt 51814 vs. the Odyssey PC680. Moto has higher overall amps for running extra lights, etc. whereas Odyssey has about 600+ quick start amps for better starting on high compression engines, such as BMW 1100, 1200, etc. I personally am leaning toward the PC680--few dollars less, don't have any extra lamps, no GPS, etc. and I surely need more amperage to turn over that starter I've got.
1996 R1100RT Sierra Red
1995 K75 ABS Red
2014 CB1100 Std Black
2008 Gold Wing Black
Reside in NC
I have had the MotoBatt 4-MB51814 installed in my R1150R now for 4 years. It works perfectly.
I'd buy an new one if need to. Having 4 connectors instead of 2 makes it easier to install extra's.
22 Amps, 220 CCA, never have to worry that the ABS plays any tricks at startup.
Yep, having 4 connectors is a plus. Glad you posted the comment about ABS as I'm thinking my weak battery is the reason my ABS lights don't not always cut off--probably because I don't let the voltage rise enough before taking off. My battery has the negative post on the driver side but the cables are crossed--negative to left post, positive to right post. My BMW dealer commented the negative post should be on the the driver side--contrary to the Clymer manual. But, as long as the cables reach, no big deal. He also agreed with me the gas tank does not have to be pulled to change batteries, but it does give you more working room. Some dealers hit you for an hour of labor to install a battery.
1996 R1100RT Sierra Red
1995 K75 ABS Red
2014 CB1100 Std Black
2008 Gold Wing Black
Reside in NC
The default battery puts out 19 Amps, the Motobatt delivers 22. And it's an AGM and not bigger than the standard battery. I like it.
The extra connectors make it easy to make a permanent connection for the battery charger. I use a standard Optimate 4.
BTW You don't need the Optimate 4 dual (more expensive) for the R1150R.
Connector for the Optimate 4
There is a long list of BMW models for the MB51814 which includes my R1100RT. Must not be too many of them around, as I seldom get any replies on the R1100R/T forum.
On the MB51814, the current configurations are 2nd generation and are a tad more narrow to fit the battery cage on more BMWs. Thus, a plate was removed inside the battery which lowered the CCA from 260 to 220. This from MotoBatteries.com CSR. I believe I will be happy with 220 CCA vs. the lame battery I have now. Not even sure I'm getting the advertised 170.
1996 R1100RT Sierra Red
1995 K75 ABS Red
2014 CB1100 Std Black
2008 Gold Wing Black
Reside in NC
Don't know if this would interest anyone, but my '02 R does not have ABS and I put a second battery in the space where the ABS unit would be, just forward of the original battery .
I ride all year round here in the low deserts of south central Aridzona, during what we consider ' winter ' temps in the low to mid 30's F., the battery is just barely adequate to start the bike after sitting out for one of my usual 16-20 hour shifts at work .
'02 R1150R, Atlanta Blue
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
35 F = 274,816667 Kelvin or = 1.67 C.
Your battery should still work fine around that temperature. So isn't it time for a new battery instead of 2 batteries?
Saves you the worrying part and the weight.
Just to put a bow on this, I patched the tiny hole using JB Weld Steel Stick. Looks like a tiny piece of chewing gum stuck under my tank. Will see how well this holds. I expect it will.
Received my MotoBatt last Saturday and installed it this week. Was not a big, complex job at all. The MB51814 fits perfectly. In my haste to fire up the engine (to see how much faster the starter would turn with a more powerful battery) I forgot to twist the throttle a couple times with just the ignition on--per the Clymer manual. So, tonight, i disconnected the negative terminal, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnected, switch on and turned throttle full 3 times. Then, hit the start button. Fired right up even without choke and hasn't been run since Tuesday. The battery came out of the box at 12.8 V. Letting the cycle sit since Tuesday, it was down to 12.4 V. I'm thinking the anti-theft function on the radio is drawing voltage when the cycle sits. As far as I can tell, there is no other power draw. My old battery was also at 12.4 V, making me think it was weak (and probably is.) I plan to take it for a testing tomorrow.
1996 R1100RT Sierra Red
1995 K75 ABS Red
2014 CB1100 Std Black
2008 Gold Wing Black
Reside in NC
I posted this last year-and now after a season, I'm happy with it so far.
"I've heard a bunch about Oddessy batteries and a couple of other favorite brands. As a heads up, I just found a Power Sonic 12v. 21amp hr. 80 watts per cell. Statisticly it matches pretty close and was only $65.00. Three year warranty. Obviously time will tell but I just wanted to throw it out there."
So, not only did my hole repair leak from where the battery arc'd, I think my battery did not actually survive the short.
I pulled the tank again and did a much better repair job on the small hole by using a little solder plus a larger helping of JB Weld. The battery however is a different story. I've had it fail to start the bike 3 times so far. It will get to 12.7 volts and stay for a while but then drops. I've also noticed a rather rapid drop when I turn the ignition on, down around 12 volts or lower. When I hit the starter, it will drop all the way down around 6.5 and fail to start it. If I turn the ignition on and immediately start it, it will work. Only drops down to around 10 which sounds normal. When I'm riding around, it's at 14.0 volts. I rode it home about 25 miles today and pulled it into the garage. I killed the engine but left the lights on for a couple of minutes and could see the voltage dropping from 12.5 down. Tried to start it then and it didn't start.
I've been using a Battery Tender Jr to trickle-charge it just overnight every now and then. It only gets to 13.0 on it. I put it on a regular charger tonight which gets it higher than that. Given that it fires right up with a good charge, I'm going to assume the starter is fine. I think I have to conclude that I did manage to damage the battery when I shorted it and I am definitely not trusting it at this point.
