Faulty Fuel Line Connector.

[RCS]

I started my bike this morning to go to work only to be drizzled on by precious premium gasoline. After reading some threads i determined that i had fell prey to a broken, stock, plastic fuel connector. Im headed out tomorrow to buy some zinc and nikel plated couplings. I was wondering if anyone could talk me through swapping these out with the old ones. The Bike is an 04'. The gas tank is full. Any help is truly appreciated. This bike is my only form of transportation. -Thanks

[DK]

When I changed mine, the hoses were pretty tight on the plastic QDs so you may have to twist them a bit to get them off. As for the fuel tank being full, I take a couple of small pieces of wood and clamp them to fuel line with a Vise Grip. This keeps the fuel from flowing and protects the hose from damage from the grips. I always cover the engine VERY WELL to keep any fuel off of it because it will stain the case.

Hope this helps!

Dwayne

[DK]

One other thing... be careful to not stress the plastic fuel lines where the rubber hoses attach when you are pulling the old QDs off. They look somewhat fragile to me.

Dwayne

[bransan]

How many miles on this bike? Have You changed the fuel filter? If Your pulling the tank You might want to change it. Our gas these days is terrible, turns green in a couple weeks and the filter is our only defense. 30,000mi max for Me.

Good luck with the QD change out.

[awagnon]

It's always better to "push" a hose off a connector than to "pull" it off. Cut the Oetiker clamps with really strong wire or bolt cutters. You can also pry them open with a small screw driver or cut them carefully (sparks) with a Dremel. ( what I did ). Push the hoses off with the tip of a screw driver, or better yet, a putty knife with a slot in it. Replace the Oetiker clamps with 5/16 inch fuel injection ( not worm screw type ) clamps. Re-tighten them again after a few days just for good measure. You can also wrap tape around the jaws of vice grips to use as hose clamps or just buy some as they're cheap and a good thing to have in your tool chest.

+1 on being careful with the plastic hoses from the fuel distributor. Pretty easy to break trying to get the hoses off.

[CycleRob]

I cut the stock crush clamps off with a dremel 1" cut-off wheel. Yes, there were sparks, but there was no fuel. Do the R&R one clamp at-a-time without separating the QD's and there'll be no leaks. The rubber hose's rear connection to the hard plastic fuel pipes require restraint in forcing things. The easiest way is to cut just over 1/2 way thru the rubber hose with a razor blade, just cutting thru the circumferential cloth mesh that you see in the cut end, then gently tear and spread it apart so the hose releases it's grip on the hard plastic lines. Of course, you did get new "fuel injection hose", didn't you? Be continuously aware of the forces you apply to the stationary hard plastic fuel rail lines that disappear into the bike under the airbox. They are attached to the same $61+ part -IF- you replace it yourself. Figure well over an additional $150 if a dealer does it for you.

I do NOT recommended pinching the high pressure fuel hose to stop fuel flow. That's asking for trouble. Siphon it out into a red plastic 5 gallon fuel can. It's a good idea to have one on hand if you don't already.


Last week I finally decided to purchase from Omega the chromed brass QD's. They arrive in 2 days. I recently replaced the 1 broken, 1 good plastic QD's with 2 solid brass pipes -but- the need to occasionally remove the fuel tank and my tax check arrival made me take the plunge.

.

[Airman]

I cut the stock crush clamps off with a dremel 1" cut-off wheel. Yes, there were sparks, but there was no fuel. Do the R&R one clamp at-a-time without separating the QD's and there'll be no leaks. The rubber hose's rear connection to the hard plastic fuel pipes require restraint in forcing things. The easiest way is to cut just over 1/2 way thru the rubber hose with a razor blade, just cutting thru the circumferential cloth mesh that you see in the cut end, then gently tear and spread it apart so the hose releases it's grip on the hard plastic lines. Of course, you did get new "fuel injection hose", didn't you? Be continuously aware of the forces you apply to the stationary hard plastic fuel rail lines that disappear into the bike under the airbox. They are attached to the same $61+ part -IF- you replace it yourself. Figure well over an additional $150 if a dealer does it for you.

I do NOT recommended pinching the high pressure fuel hose to stop fuel flow. That's asking for trouble. Siphon it out into a red plastic 5 gallon fuel can. It's a good idea to have one on hand if you don't already.


Last week I finally decided to purchase from Omega the chromed brass QD's. They arrive in 2 days. I recently replaced the 1 broken, 1 good plastic QD's with 2 solid brass pipes -but- the need to occasionally remove the fuel tank and my tax check arrival made me take the plunge.

.

I just replaced mine last week. I think the best way to deal with fuel in the tank is to simply disconnect the ....disonnects, then remove the lower hoses from those plastic hard lines, Have your gas can ready then reconnect to the tank lines. Grinding and clipping works all right I guess, but I found the clamps easy to remove by inserting small screw driver in the clamp and twisting.

I agree with not clamping those lines with vice grips. It's a stiff high pressure line and you might damage the hose. I didn't buy enough clamps to change all the ones in the tank, but figured at the least if those leak, the fuel won't run down my leg. I'll get them next time. You'll need 10 to do the external lines and the fuel filter. I replaced all the external fuel hoses. The other advisers were right, the FI hose is $7 a foot, but I think it's the right approach since we're here to prevent leaks. I bought 3 ft and that seems to be generous. Don't let those parts weasels sell you the low pressure hose. The guy where I went didn't know what he was doing and tried to sell me the $ .93 / foot fuel hose. I had to go up a level in the retail command chain to get the right stuff.

I put this off too long. I was fortunate and never had a leak, but when I saw the brass disconnects compared to the plastic ones I realized this was a must do upgrade.

[Boxer]

The leak you mentioned at the very beginning of this thread might only be the clamps. Mine went first a year or so ago and I never had my QDs break. I just replaced with the Omegas recently but just a a precautionary measure.

You're problem may only be those silly crimp-on clamps, solved easily by replacing with the FI screw-on types mentioned above.

[sweatmark]

Boxer's advice is solid: confirm whether one (or more) of the fuel hose clamps has loosened, as opposed to a problem with the CPC quick-connects. Both will soak you with gas.

We had fuel line clamp problem on '02 Roadster a couple years ago, replaced clamps and no problems since, including the ongoing use of OE plastic CPC quick-connects and original o-rings.

This weekend I broke the male CPC quick-connect on low pressure fuel return line preparing for my Rockster's ABS removal (documented in the Rockster section), and just mopped up the leak from an incomplete fix using parts from the NAPA store. Finally time to invest in metal connects.

Does anyone know offhand the specific CPC designation for the OE disconnects? Is the chrome-plated brass LC series plug-in compatible with the plastic version?

[priapismic]

but I found the clamps easy to remove by inserting small screw driver in the clamp and twisting.

That's what I did. Didn't take too long to work the clamps loose.

I didn't get much gas once mine were disconnected. You can use a golf tee to plug the fuel lines if draining the tank is a hassle.

[Airman]

Boxer's advice is solid: confirm whether one (or more) of the fuel hose clamps has loosened, as opposed to a problem with the CPC quick-connects. Both will soak you with gas.

We had fuel line clamp problem on '02 Roadster a couple years ago, replaced clamps and no problems since, including the ongoing use of OE plastic CPC quick-connects and original o-rings.

This weekend I broke the male CPC quick-connect on low pressure fuel return line preparing for my Rockster's ABS removal (documented in the Rockster section), and just mopped up the leak from an incomplete fix using parts from the NAPA store. Finally time to invest in metal connects.

Does anyone know offhand the specific CPC designation for the OE disconnects? Is the chrome-plated brass LC series plug-in compatible with the plastic version?

I bought that kit from BeemerBoneYard. It has the 4 connectors and 4 FI clamps. I think it was $92 to the door. Depending on the shipping from Omega, it's probably comparable. And yes, the old plastic connectors plug right into the new brass ones. I plan to carry the old ones on trips in case fuel was needed for the camp stove or to help brothers in need.

[sweatmark]

Thanks Airman, exactly the info needed. Printed off the info from Beemer Boneyard, will place order this week.

[Airman]

Thanks Airman, exactly the info needed. Printed off the info from Beemer Boneyard, will place order this week.

I was just out admiring my work on the RR, came back in and found your note. You do stay up late don't you ? The price for a couple of brass pieces in high of course, but you'll be pleased with the quality. BeemerBoneYard's shipping cost is beastly, but it may not be any worse altogether then the other site. You might want to ask them how much 8 more of those clamps would cost. Save you some running around. I finally found them at Schucks for $3.69 for a 4 pack.I've been spending a little time here and there trying to ge the cable routing and the Wunderlich bar mount just right. I have four or five different fixes in the works right now. I'm working on that system case latch rebuild, the bar replacement, the Centech fuse panel install, the airhorn install, and of course the fuel line upgrade. Everything is about half done and the sun is shining for the first time this year !!! I would have done this differently but my battery crashed and once I started taking it apart.....well you know how it goes. How's the ABS removal coming ?

[sweatmark]

I was just out admiring my work on the RR, came back in and found your note. You do stay up late don't you ?

Well, I was typing away in the vacation rental, cold beer and pajamas, while you were out in the garage... actually, you stay up late too!

I do like the CPC products. Chosing plastic for the OE pieces was a misstep by BMW, but the CPC quick-disconnects work as well as most and have the benefit of small size and short length. Beemer Boneyard will get our business for two sets for the Roadster and Rockster, and I should have enough fuel injection clamps that our Euro Motors neighbor graciously donated.