A few words just to clarify and enhance the important points.
--Only the clutch M/C banjo fitting aluminum limiter lug needs to be cut IF you want to also neatly
capture/include the hydraulic line inside the handguard's throat with the wires & cable. The brake side M/C banjo fitting needs to be turned the other way, away from it's limiter lug, so it's not an issue. When you do the clutch side lug cut & rearward turn of the hydraulic line, it fits handsomely inside the handguard looking like the factory did the work.
EDIT: The stout Aluminum locating lug is needed by the factory to exactly locate the brakeline's banjo fitting location and, because it is so stout, prevent the hydraulic line from rotational creeping as the banjo bolt is tightened. They install each clutch/brake system onto the bike, already connected/filled/bled/sealed from another factory location. The integral lug casting also helps mechanics and novices quickly locate the correct angular banjo fitting location after a rebuild/replacement. It's no big deal to remove the clutch side's protruding locating lug, especially when it prevents a clean flowing, factory lookalike, INSIDE THE YOKE installation. THE LUG IS NOT NEEDED for any competent mechanic, able to hold the banjo fitting in the right place while it is being tightened. I cringe when I read about someone Dremeling away the plastic handguards structure
weakening their designed in crash-worthy strength, because it interferes with the hydraulic lines. Even if you do not have access to a rotary cut-off tool, a small hacksaw and very careful strokes, with or without line removal, can remove the interfering lug. After file smoothing the cut and repainting (like Beemeridian did) no one is the wiser (or harmed) at trade-in or sell time, when you'll likely remove and resell the handguards. I sold mine to MikeCam.
--Be sure to start the threads on the rearward then the forward barclamp bolt that pass thru the handguard BEFORE
you put the bar end bolt in the handguard or you will have great difficulty starting the barclamp bolts later. Once the barclamp bolts are started but loose enough so the clamp can slide up/down on the handlebar, locate, then force the guard's bar end portion into place and install the bolt, just mildly distorting the handguard's natural shape. They were made for 1150GS handlebars, but fit OK on 1150R bars.
--Ensure the levers have one finger's clearance to the handguard's bottom surface, then securelytighten
the bar end bolt. Recheck the lever clearances again and occasionally as part of your pre-ride inspection. If the lever clearance goes to zero or prevents full lever release, it likely will damage or shorten the life of the slave and/or throwout bearing.
--Again, with the stock Roadster handlebars NOTHING
of the plastic
handguard needs to be cut, filed or trimmed IF you are a decent farkle installer.
FYI, the only bad part about the handguards is that they make it more difficult to wave back to the bumper crop of Harley riders. Oh well, hands on the bars . . . . and . . . . . they get a quick downward helmet nod.