600 Mile Service Checks - A guide

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This reference section discusses maintenence and service issues.

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whaycoc
Lifer
Posts: 204
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 8:02 am
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Location: Huntsville, Alabama

600 Mile Service Checks - A guide

Post by whaycoc »

First of all, let me say, that in my opinion one should have the dealer complete the 600 mile service. This is because if there are going to be any warranty issues I would rather the dealer find them at this point. Secondly, if your bike is ABS equipped you should have the dealer do the Motronics check to make sure the system is working properly. Non ABS bikes - like mine - really don't need a Motronics check - but, for the first 600 mile check i think it is worth while to let the dealer do one - just in case. Also, the dealer should perform any "recalls" or "service bulletins" at this check - remind them to do so!

Also, I am assuming you have some knowledge of maintenance procedures and proper tools to complete the service.

After the valve adjustment you will need to sync the throttle bodies using a TwinMax or other home made device to bring the throttle bodies into sync.

If you decide to do your own service checks you will find it is actually very easy once you go through the process a few times - be sure to invest in proper tools.

I am by no means a mechanic! I have simply researched and asked others and developed procedures that work for me - if you have any doubt as to what you are doing then ask or don't do it!

Here are the 600 mile service checks as I know them to be:

Change oil and filter - oil weight is in the manual. Use proper torque values on all re tightening - some of the bolts are steel going into aluminum.
I will attach the torque chart here - download it and use it.

Change the transmission and rear end oil - use new crush washers.

Re torque the cylinder head bolts (4) and the M10 bolt

Here is what you do:

You take off the valve cover - some oil will spill out - this procedure will be explained in the attached "Word" document on "checking/adjusting your valves. Attached here.

Four corner nuts hold the cylinder head onto the engine body

After 1000 km, (600 miles) tighten cylinder head nuts crosswise:
1. Unfasten one nut
2. Tighten one nut to initial value 20nm
3. Tighten nut to wrench angle 180°
4. Unfasten/re tighten M10 screw 40nm

Basically, you unloosen one of the corner nuts, re tighten that nut to a value of 20nm, place a socket wrench and socket on that nut, place the socket wrench handle at 12 o'clock position (*pointing straight up), and swing it down 180 degrees to the 6 o'clock position.

Then, using a cross hatch pattern, go to the next nut and do the same thing, then the third then the forth.

Screw M10 is an allen head (8mm) found near the cam chain area, recessed slightly - you can't miss it - is a large 8mm screw going into the head - again, right next to the cam chain area. Loosen it slightly and then re torque to 40nm.

Check and adjust if needed the valves - see attached procedure sheet.

Complete a visual check to insure throttle cables are free and not rubbing anything

Check the clutch cable for clearance

Check the poly V belt for proper tension

Here is how:

Un fasten the four small fastners holding on the front plastic looking cover - front of motor. Take the cover off. You will be looking at the Poly V belt (alternator belt).

Grasp the belt between two fingers half way between the pulley wheels.

You should be just able to twist (turn) the belt using just two finger tips about 90 degrees - if you can easily twist past 90 degrees the belt is to loose - if you can't twist to at least 90 degrees it is to tight.

Check all fluid reservoirs for proper fluid levels

Check swing arm bearing for "no play" Just grasp the wheel and rock it back and forth - there should be no play.

Check side stand for proper operation - safety switch is operational

Re torque rear wheel lug nuts

Slightly loosen the lug nuts.

Using a cross hatch pattern tighten each lug nut to 50nm.

Then using the same pattern, torque again to 105nm.

This completes the 600 mile service as I know it - others might do some other things - any input will be helpful.
Bill Haycock - Member #78
Huntsville, AL
gel9001

600

Post by gel9001 »

Bill,

My understanding is the transmission oil is not changed at 600. Its changed, I believe every 12K.

by checking for swing arm play, are you saying you should grab the rear wheell @ 3 o clock and 9 o clock or 12 and 6?

As you know I did my own 600 service, last weekend I took it to a dealer I'de never been to since bmw westchester closed, and the guy (John) put my bike on the computer and checked the brakes and did the bleed test for free. (I may have found a new mechanic).

regards,

Gene
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whaycoc
Lifer
Posts: 204
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 8:02 am
Donating Member #: 0
Location: Huntsville, Alabama

Post by whaycoc »

Gene,
My understanding is the transmission oil is not changed at 600. Its changed, I believe every 12K.

by checking for swing arm play, are you saying you should grab the rear wheel @ 3 o clock and 9 o clock or 12 and 6?
It seems to be a question in the community about the tyranny oil! One source says change it and others don't refer to it - for me, it was just another 10 minutes at most since the tool were there, the fluid was there and the drain pan was there - so, guess is just up to the individual.

Just grab the wheel at any position and rock it back and forth - it should not have any play - quite frankly, I would hope a brand new bike would NOT have any play!
Bill Haycock - Member #78
Huntsville, AL
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