Secret valve adjust methods?

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DSKYZD
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Secret valve adjust methods?

Postby DSKYZD » Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:21 pm

I've read the OVAD2.2 which uses the 2 feeler gauge method and goes on and on about long strokes and feel. (So much so, we'd have to move it to the Playouse if it were posted on this board.)

But, on ADVRider I found a post that explains a method that really makes sense to me. Here's the post:

For adjusting the valves, I found a very simple method that (after getting used to it) means basically ZERO trial and error; I nail it right the first time. It only works if the adjusters haven't been mangled by previous overtorquing.

- take the right feeler gauges out of the fan-pack. Loosen the adjusters and put the feeler gauges under them, with each feeler gauge spanning the two adjusters. This will ensure that the feeler gauge is flat. Lightly tighten the adjusters to hold it in position.

- One at a time, loosen an adjuster and then, holding the shank of the 3mm allen wrench, spin it in your fingers to run each adjuster down against the feeler gauge. Loosen and repeat this several times and you should see the wrench stop in the same position every time. Do this for all four adjusters. Where the adjuster stops is the right position, simple as that.

- keeping the adjuster from moving (takes some getting used to), tighten the locknuts. Then remove the feeler gauges... you should feel even drag from both ends.

That's all. Harder to describe than to perform. Maybe a video would help.

DON'T use a heavy T-handle allen wrench... when you spin it in your fingers the inertia will overtighten the adjuster. The one in the toolkit, or one like it, is perfect.

If the allen wrench isn't stopping consistently, in the same position each time, then this procedure is not for you.
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Now, what sticks out to me is that 1 feeler is used. It seems that pulling the feeler from the middle would easily show which is tighter and give even feedback when the valve clearance is matched.

What's your take on this?

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Acacia
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Postby Acacia » Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:09 pm

I can see how that could work.

I have two identical guage packs - prefer using them together -to feel each valve adjustment in tandem.
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shaner1150r
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Postby shaner1150r » Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:16 pm

Thats Antons method and I've done it many times and it works. He's the tech guy from bmwbmw.org. Here's his website http://www.largiader.com He lives in VA and works on BMW's if you ever have a problem.

shane

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bakernks
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feelers

Postby bakernks » Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:27 pm

I purchase Starrett (the precision measuring people) brand stainless steel feeler blades in 12" length, both a .006" and a .012" thickness. I make two blades from each 12" long blade. Just bend them over in the middle, they'll crack in half. Sand down the resulting deflection formed into the end, but just the end. Dip 3" into Plasticote or similar. You KNOW these blades are identical in thickness. One each through the valve gap. The feel I use to judge if the gap is the same as the blade is, if the blade is locked in and won't move, too tight. If the blade slides right out, too loose. A gentle drag on the blade is what you're after. That's going to deliver a measurement that's awfully darn close to 3 digit precision. Recheck after SNUGGING the locknut, don't tighten it too much. When you've done an Oilhead and get the valves at the gentle drag point on all 8 valves, the engine will purr, your idle will be smooth, and all will be right with your motoring world, (providing you've also set your TB sync after you have a completely warmed engine) Even one valve .002" off either way is noticeable.
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DSKYZD
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Postby DSKYZD » Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:05 am

First valve adjust is done.

Nothing new here for those of you who have done it.

I used 1 feeler to slide under both lifters at the same time, then used the spin method to adjust the clearance. Took my time and made sure there was even drag on both intake and both exhauste valves just like mommy told me. Locked down the nuts and had to re-adjust a few times but no sweat getting a nice smooth buttery feel, next larger feeler would not go in.

Almost all the valves were tight initially, couldn't get the feeler in most of them.

Fought with timing plug cover. Tried to find TDC by using the arrows on the cam chain gear and spinning the rear tire. Ended up taking off the alt cover and the timing plug and doing it that way, seemed more exact.

Didn't push the timing plug into the engine but did flick it down being one of the fins next to the engine and it took some fishing to get it out. As a matter of fact I went ahead with the adjust and ended up using a wire coat hanger to fish it ou afterwardst. Popped it back in by hand with no trouble.

Took the bike for a spin, had high expectations for this magical fix. Went on my morning commute ride just like I'd go to work. This is through residential and city streets. No magical difference. The bike still bucks, kicks, and lurches at times of low gear, low rpm, and steady throttle. It might have been slightly better but nothing dramatic. Granted I have yet to do a TB Sync (last was 4000 miles ago at the bash).

The engine did seem to be pretty smooth. Not that it was particuarly vibey before, but it feels good now. 4000 RPM and higher isn't terribly buzzy.

I do know why people refer to the sewing machine sound these bikes make now. I've never really noticed it before but don't usually listen to my bike with helmet off. Left the bike running as I pulled off my helmet and immediately could hear the sewing machine noises. I guess the sksksksskskskskskssksksksks noise is normal. It was the same on both sides.

Just thought I'd share!

Thanks for your time.


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PV
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valve clearance wider results in higher torque?

Postby PV » Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:13 am

I did valve adjustment yesterday. I adjusted it on; inlet 0,15 mm and outlet 0,30 with the feelers firmly dragging, checked it and seems to be ok. Before adjusting measured outlet valves to be 0,4 mm!

Just came to work and it is accelerating / running smoother from low to higher rpm. And it idles more smooth.

Do you have a similar experience after doing this job? :shock:

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DSKYZD
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Postby DSKYZD » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:24 am

I did not notice a drastic improvement. It may have been a more subtle difference, or I'm not being observant enough.

At least I feel better about knowing they are set evenly. Mine were mostly too tight before I set them.

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Postby Lance1150 » Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:29 pm

Ended up taking off the alt cover and the timing plug and doing it that way, seemed more exact.



Not, but whatever feels good to you.

Getting the valves right, then doing the TB's is a NICE feeling... ahhhhh.
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