BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

AZBMWRIDER wrote:Before I purchased a replacement starter, I would remove it and take it to a shop for testing, some autoparts stores will do this .

Thanks AZ… I will do that

Had the battery checked out at a local shop… and was told it was good to go.. so back to the starter motor…. are there a couple of different manufactures out there… I even seen some on e-bay… Although I purchase from e-bay not sure I would purchase a starter from there?

How old is the battery, and is it a serviceable type ???? The battery is only 3 years old... OEM gel battery.. it's my second BMW battery.. It is not serviceable... It does not seem week. The battery was on the tender since october... I never let it get low, as I learned my lesson from the 1st batt...

Light is bright after clicks/clicking… strong powerful clicks
connections tight and corrosion free.
Do not have a voltmeter… will get someone to check to rule it out

I need some advice or help here guys…. with the weather shaping up nicely up here in canada,I thought I would fire up the bike.. Its been on the battery tender all winter long. Click,click,click,click,click… I put the bike in gear and tried to move it around…try again….click,click,click…. I guess my...

I just put a set of Jiffy QD's on about a month and a half ago.... purchased from the source you mention.... excellent service. and a far better design in my opinion....

UPDATE:

Umm... received my jiffy tite QD's... and they seem to be the Cat's Meow... a much better system if you ask me.
Now that I have experienced this problem ... Soo glad I went with these.

Curious to get some thoughts on Jiffy tite QD"s,before I place an order for the stock replacements

just out of curiosity sake.... does anyone have any experience with the Jiffy-tite quick connects...

Could I just put a regular brass fitting to make the connection?.... or does the fitting need to be vavled?

Thanks slowtorque;

Are only the male fittings needed ?

I checked over... nothing is cracked or broken .. I even put a new o-ring on... that didn't help at all .. I am guessing the quick connections were made in ... well not germany

Sorry, if this has been talked about many times I am sure.... one of my quick connects is pouring fuel.... I have disconnected and re connected many times now, in hopes for a better connection... no luck... Do I need to replace or is there a trick that I am over looking?... Thanks for your time.

diethornig wrote:And when is this?

Wont know until March 15th.. at latest ... will post when certain of date

Hey all, I have a unique opportunity this year... problem is that it looks to be alone. not that I mind being alone..... however for safety sake & fun factor, not ideal.Western United States or British Columbia will work for me.. if anyone is seriously interested in hooking up for a week or 2 of...

However I think I know what you mean. The front fork consists of 2 parts. The lower tube (slider) and the upper tube (stanchion) which inserts into the lower tube. So the upper tube is not fixed with the lower tube in any way hence can rotate freely. The upper tube is only connected with the upper f...

Ok sorry if I am not clear in my description.... however I will do my best: upon spring cleaning... i noticed that one of the front shocks spins...(riders right side)... I removed the cap/cover on the tree, to access the nut on the top of the shock to see if it was loose. however it is tight.... So ...

Yes... I changed both final drive and gearbox fluids about 3000 kms ago... I dont recall over filling... However.. I will keep an eye on it, and wont be worried about it... thanks for the excellent reply.... cheers.

I noticed a few weeks ago some oil seepage from the rear rubber boot, between the diff and the boot.It seemed fairly dry, so I wiped it off. Today had a boo and it was worse.. far wetter then previous... My question, how concerned should I be?... and any easy remedies. ( I think it might just be the...