BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I will agree with Faylo. The Kaoko is probably the overall winner. The large teeth on the setting knob make it easier to use than the others. The Go Cruise is nice and it's universally easy to fit on almost any bike in a few seconds. It's downside is even though it's pretty narrow, if you have large...

Nothing wrong with the bike. I have a Go Cruise that I tried on my GS. The grips are kind of old and getting a bit slippery. The GC does just that, it slips initially. I've found if I move it slightly away from the portion of the grip that curves it will stick much better and I only have to reset it...

Yes, very easy once the tank is off. Buy a used one off eBay and save hundreds. Never actually heard of one ever going bad so I'm suspicious that you've had two. If they really are bad I'd suspect something else is making them that way. Alternator output voltage too high? Bad grounds? Unusual to say...

On eBay a chinese vendor is selling repro handguards. I bought a set for my GS figuring "how bad can they be?" Well, they're pretty darn good. It appears they took a genuine set and made molds from them and use a high grade plastic and good quality casting for the metal clamps. I was very ...

I think you'll find a standard 10X1 bleeder screw for the brakes will fit in the output hole in the master cylinder making it very easy to test whether it can build up and hold pressure. You don't need to find a bolt and copper washer. The bleeder will make it quick and easy to get the air out of th...

I don't know specifically about an 1150 master cylinder, but on most types you can test the master by disconnecting the flex line from it and replacing the banjo bolt with a bleeder. Usually the threads are the same (10X1.00?) and you can bleed the master and it should get a very hard to pull lever....

I would recommend Motobins in the UK. They sell quality replacement rotors (Grimeca, Italian OEM) for less than half of what you will pay in the US. I bought a pair for my GS and they cost me less than one US sourced rotor SHIPPED. Plus, they were here in less than a week! They will ship anywhere in...

Hey! I'm a guy who would seriously look at a cable clutch actuator kit to go on my 1150 if I could find one! I LIKE to adjust things and personally think that a lot of the things they do to modern bikes is done only because they CAN. I'm only trying to put their engineering into perspective. How man...

There's one size for single spark and a different one for the twin spark models. Sounds like you may have received the wrong type.

Most modern cars have a clutch release mechanism similar to BMWs. The type you're describing where a spring pulls the slave cyl away from the clutch is the old style that requires frequent adjustment to keep the bearing from riding on the pressure plate and wearing the bearing out and causing clutch...

Another option is to just replace the male half of the QD's. They are the ones that virtually always give problems and the plastic female halves last forever. Save a lot of money. Ted's Beemershop sells the male fittings by themselves. Buy replacement fuel line clamps at any auto parts place, get th...

I think part of the problem with RR seats is that they used to be listed in the fiche as (in order of height) "Low" "High" and "Tall" which in a teutonic sense may sound good, but is confusing to people who just want to sit a little higher on the bike.

I was wondering if possibly the boxer firing order might be some of the reason that air/oilhead splines seem to wear at high rates. Obviously not all do, but enough to cause concern. I wonder if the K bikes wear the same or less because of their more even firing pulses. Just a thought.

For anyone thinking of buying an airhead to get away from the spline issue, think again! They don't recommend annual spline lubes for no reason. At least it's easier on an airhead, taking about an hour, but they will strip the same way oilhead splines do. It seems to be a common theme with the boxer...

It's more than likely the oil pressure switch located under the cylinder on the left side of the motor. Buy a new switch, screw it in, ride the bike and I think you'll find the light working normally. Bad pressure switches are common.

The plastic bracket slides down into the fuse box. I fished mine out with needle nose pliers. You'll need a long very thin bladed screwdriver to release the tab. Best oilhead mod you can do!

My 1150R came with them too. Tried to use them many times, but they are really too close for my long legs (32" inseam) and they don't feel very comfortable plus they look kind of geeky as well. Tried them on the RT and they're the same even with the more relaxed riding position. It definitely d...

HAD you found the crack was real, used fork bridges on eBay are to be had for less than $100 and it took me less that 45 minutes to change one on an RT. Less time if your replacement came with a key (mine didn't so I had to dril out the lock bolts.) Just a thought for next time.

I bought an HID auto kit from VVME and installed one easily into my 1100RT. When I went to do the 1150R I quickly found that the bulb was about 1/4" too long to fit into the headlight shell. Has anyone else tried this and if so what did you have to do to make it fit? I'm thinking of placing the...

Install a Kisan Signal Minder! The best $100 you'll spend on your bike. I originally got mine because of the time-out function so I wouldn't leave the signals on, but the best part is the cancelling is done by a second tap on the same button you used to turn the signals on with. I rarely forget to t...