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It is my understanding that the clutch slave is under tension from the moment it is installed. The part wears out just sitting in your garage, not so much as a result of riding style or commute. That little felt piece probably saved your clutch disc, agree with replacing it. You should pump a bottle...

Nice photo, if it's your first time removing the assembly that the pump has to end up behind the bulge below the tape. At first look, after you have removed the little nuts from the the back of the fuel pump assembly plate, it seems absurd that the assembly has to come out through that opening. Put ...

I bought a set of these, just for that bolt. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-metric-long-ball-head-hex-socket-set-94534.html Of course they are not SnapOn quality, make sure the angle is as narrow as possible, especially if you are loosening them for the first time to put on win...

Oliver Thanks for the link and the tip about the old seal, I have a pvc fitting that is the right size, but putting the old seal between the two will be extra insurance. Local dealer had the bronze bushings in stock, so I'm ready to go. To get back to the originator of this thread, if you really wan...

Change in plans as usual. Got the the brass(?) retaining rings, number 2 in the above schematic, out of the sliders today. One levered out with a tiny bar clamp, the other with small channel-lock type pliers. This allowed me to remove the nylon cylinders and really clean out the sliders. But now I w...

Thanks, but I already have the old seals levered out. Found a 1.25" pvc adapter at Home Depot today that fits the seal perfectly. Seems the manuals(Clymer and OEM) say to tap the seal in after the fixed tube is in the slider, but I don't see that happening. Not without many more trips to Home D...

One more question. Do the nylon bushings inside the slider need to be removed and the the slider cleaned with solvent? Or do I just drain and replace the oil? It looks like the metal bushing that retains the nylon bushings would be a pain to remove. Only one semi-stripped bolt head (lower fork bridg...

CycleRob,

Another info-packed, useful post. Thanks.

I have a set of seals and dust covers awaiting installation in the garage, and would not have thought of using the heat gun.

Question though on the pre-greasing, something thick like bearing grease? Or just use some of the new fork oil?

Brian

I was told by RB Racing on the phone that my clutch disc was almost ready....in July, 2009.
Kinda makes me wonder about the rest of the amazing claims they make on their website.
Stock disc eventually went back on.

Brian

Very easy to spend way to much money trying to find the "perfect" windscreen. I would like to try this screen next...would be my fourth attempt at wind protection that didn't rattle my teeth. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2136 But it would be another 225 bucks with the m...

Definitely no brackets of any type, unless purchased with a shield. Two small ones with the fly screen, and four for the sport shield and touring shield. The brackets that mount behind the turn signal stalks are absolutely required to install the sport shield. Kind of a pain the ass to remove, you h...

I'm a little confused, you changed the filter without removing the assembly completely from the tank? I've pulled the pump/filter assembly from mine and a friends tank and I can't imagine changing the filter without pulling it out from inside the "saddle." I know the assembly can hang up o...

Xdot wrote:Where's a good source for the brass disconnects. I need to do this ASAP.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html

you can other maintenance items from here also.

Brian

A non-cheap pair of good sized diagonal cutters, and patience. Don't want to break the plastic rail fuel lines. Just get the tips of the cutters crosswise on one band of the clamp where it's pinched and squeeze. Don't twist too much, just takes a little time. Also once you get the clamps shredded an...

CycleRob, you are making me think again and my head is hurting. Solution, cut and paste your concise post. Print, then slot it into the appropriate chapter in my Clymer manual. Refer to later, when my head clears. Honestly, thanks for the advice that goes way past the Clymer and the OEM service manu...

MV makes nice stuff and they are in your area, so to speak. The risers may be a bit drastic though, the model they sell now really moves the bars back a lot it looks like. http://www.mv-motorrad.de/lshop,showdetail,24440,e,1281687327-25389,001.1099926321,90002,,Tshowrub--001.1099926321,.htm http://w...

This is the tall seat, note there is almost no dip from the front edge of the seat http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/keithbrwi/tallseat.jpg This is the medium seat, drops an inch or so from the front edge. http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/keithbrwi/mediumseat.jpg I do not have the lo...

I didn't use Loctite of any color on mine, also due to posts here and in ADV site citing the high torque specification for the lock nut. I did, however, scratch said parts lightly with an awl, no movement noted yet.... Also as I said in another of your posts, I plan on removing these bushings again ...

In my '02 for the low fuel light sensor is just a small canister with a float inside. The plastic canister just clicks into detentes(?) in brackets mounted on the fuel pump mounting assembly. It has an adjustment range of about 3/4 of an inch or so, and can be knocked off (or maybe broken) when rein...

macx, If you hear from RSR please post, I still would like to put one of their clutches in my '02. I did not use a single drop of loctite when I reassembled last year in anticipation of some sort of redo. The upgraded input shaft is a bit over my mechanical skills to install, so I'd like to give the...